How I took out my 1981 W123 300D (euro) non-turbo engine - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #16 12-08-2010, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Nice.
only complaint I have is wondering why you removed the hood?

Hmmm - looks like (as usual) I've given too much information. In post #2 point 1 is about to remove hood or not to remove hood. I chose to do it because I was working outside and I imagined one strong gust of wind bending it back against my windshield. When I started the job I had no idea I'd get it all out so quickly. Over a 2 day period I probably completed the job in about 5 hours stopping for pictures etc...

I'll make an edit above to make it clearer - thanks

junqueyardjim · #17 12-08-2010, 12:23 PM

I have been involved in a number of 616/617 Turbo and you described it well and the pictures speak for themselves. Thanks. I do think the factory hooks are plenty strong enough the handle the engine remove/install operation, though it is not impossible to bend them.

junqueyardjim · #18 12-08-2010, 12:27 PM

Typically we don't remove the hood as it does lay back so nice. But remember, Army is in the Netherlands, and the wind really does blow there. I have been there and that wind is enough to take your breath away. I think what causes all that wind is all the windmills that are still turning. They make a lot of wind!

vstech · #19 12-08-2010, 12:33 PM

still, even with the wind, I'd just tie the hood to the back bumper with some rope while working, and drop it closed when the engine is out!

Stretch · #20 12-08-2010, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

still, even with the wind, I'd just tie the hood to the back bumper with some rope while working, and drop it closed when the engine is out!

Good point: If your hood hinges look good and inspire confidence - not that you (all) were to know but have a look at this:-

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=287176

The hood was really wobbly and the catches that allow you to position it in upright mode were really stiff... I wasn't taking any chances. I didn't fancy doing a "look where my hood ended up" thread.

dieseldan44 · #21 12-08-2010, 12:51 PM

Army: THANK YOU. I'll be doing this next year and it's really nice to see this writeup. Much appreciated.

Stretch · #22 12-08-2010, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

Typically we don't remove the hood as it does lay back so nice. But remember, Army is in the Netherlands, and the wind really does blow there. I have been there and that wind is enough to take your breath away. I think what causes all that wind is all the windmills that are still turning. They make a lot of wind!

The buggers... though where I am there aren't that many of the old type - just those huge Californian style ones.

franklynb · #23 12-11-2010, 07:45 PM

Army,

Nicely done!

Just a couple of very minor notes/corrections:

The nuts on the flex discs are 17mm, not 15. The heads of the bolts are [correctly noted at] 15mm.

Its easier to just unplug the glow plug cable at the relay, keeping the wiring
with the engine.

I tend to forget the plastic oil pressure line to the dash, so I always do this first,
after draining. Its an expensive, fragile part only available from the dealer. And it tears out when you start lifting the engine -- almost immediately!

Don't forget the ground strap under the accelerator. And even on a turbo,
I can generally get the 17mm nut and phillps screw on the starter connection by reaching between the idler arm and cross-member from underneath the
right side -- saving all the manifold removal, which is Really Painful on turbo cars. Ditto the engine block heater connector.

Disconnecting the vacuum at the brake booster allows more of the vacuum
connections to be held intact with the engine -- EGR, tranny, and IP
connections can all come out with the vacuum line. Only the dash
connections need to be redone, simplifying reconnection -- if it can ever be
considered simple.

layback40 · #24 12-11-2010, 09:20 PM

Your DIY is up to your usual excellent standard of work Army !!
You could have added, replacement is the reverse, or just whistle at the motor & tell it to get back in there!!

MBeige · #25 12-12-2010, 12:04 AM

Nice work Tristan!

Stretch · #26 12-12-2010, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franklynb

Army,

Nicely done!

Just a couple of very minor notes/corrections:

The nuts on the flex discs are 17mm, not 15. The heads of the bolts are [correctly noted at] 15mm.

Its easier to just unplug the glow plug cable at the relay, keeping the wiring
with the engine.

I tend to forget the plastic oil pressure line to the dash, so I always do this first,
after draining. Its an expensive, fragile part only available from the dealer. And it tears out when you start lifting the engine -- almost immediately!

Don't forget the ground strap under the accelerator. And even on a turbo,
I can generally get the 17mm nut and phillps screw on the starter connection by reaching between the idler arm and cross-member from underneath the
right side -- saving all the manifold removal, which is Really Painful on turbo cars. Ditto the engine block heater connector.

Disconnecting the vacuum at the brake booster allows more of the vacuum
connections to be held intact with the engine -- EGR, tranny, and IP
connections can all come out with the vacuum line. Only the dash
connections need to be redone, simplifying reconnection -- if it can ever be
considered simple.

Thank you very much for pointing out the 17mm nuts on the flex discs, the oil pressure sender hose and the other bits. I was writing this thread from memory - and being aided by my photographs - I try and try and try to photograph everything like the stereotypical (Japanese) tourist but I always seem to miss something.

Edit:-

I could still edit my original posts so I've added in your comments with thanks at the appropriate places - cheers

jojee · #27 01-11-2011, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Nice.
only complaint I have is wondering why you removed the hood?

He was working outside, something about a strong gust of wind and a big ol w123 hood ruining his day lol

leathermang · #28 01-11-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Nice.
only complaint I have is wondering why you removed the hood?

You must embrace the whole program... you have taken off the ' I only skimmed or might not have read the post' from your signature.. .. but now as Moderator... you have to read the actual posts...
LOLOL

tomscat1 · #29 02-20-2011, 06:52 PM

I am a little late to this thread. I sought it out because I am contemplating removing the engine from my 1975 W115 300D again, and was seeking some refresher materials.

This thread is for a W123, as I understand, so it may be a little different, since I did this on my W115.
Back around 2000, I had two W115 300Ds, and I swapped the engines.... then swapped them BACK, after learning that the engine that I thought was good, was, in fact, no good. So, in the course of that adventure, the net result was that I pulled the engine three different times, and installed it twice.

The reason I am posting here is to share some info that I learned along the way. Again this was for a W115, so it may not apply completely here.

Prior to actually doing the job, I was repeatedly warned about the difficulty, and how much of a PITA it was. Except for one fella, to whom I remain eternally indebted. He said, never mind those guys.... this is the way to do it.... it is actually very easy, and a testament to the genius of the MB design:

Lift the engine with a strap, .... wrapped around the engine just behind the front oil pan sump. Leave the tranny attached. Forget the load leveler and the attachment points, you don't need them.

As you slowly lift the engine with the strap attached as above, the natural weight of the engine, with tranny, will tilt the engine at the exact angle to clear: the firewall, the front crossmember, and the front where the radiator was attached. It is unbelievable. Pure genius!

I did this procedure by myself three different times. Once I had everything detached, and I took care to use a little scissor jack under the tranny to keep it from dropping too much.... I had the engine out and on the floor in less than 10 minutes. The biggest problem I had was that, in my excitement, I knocked over my coffee mug (covered and sealed so nothing even spilled) as I rushed around the car making sure all the lift angles were clear. I knocked it over two times!!! I just couldn't believe how easy the job was! It really came out perfectly.

I have just decided that, instead of selling my beloved W115, ---which I almost did yesterday--- I am going to restore it.... it needs valves, seals and rings, I believe, and a good paint job. Also some attention to the interior, heater and A/C. It is a solid example, basically, and I have decided it deserves a freshening. It is a grand old car, and a pleasure to drive.

And, btw, I would be remiss if I failed to mention what a great write-up that was, Army. Kudos! I love to see stuff like that. Great job!

Stretch · #30 02-21-2011, 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomscat1

I am a little late to this thread. I sought it out because I am contemplating removing the engine from my 1975 W115 300D again, and was seeking some refresher materials.

This thread is for a W123, as I understand, so it may be a little different, since I did this on my W115. ...

Thanks for the input tomscat1 and welcome to the forum.

When I get my engine back together again - nearly done - I'll see if I can work out if it is possible to put an engine back in a W123 without a load leveler when you are working by yourself. It is good to know these things!

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