any estimates on how long it takes to do the motor and tranny mount on a w123?

Should I order the engine shock too? Is there a way to tell if its worn out?

Any other considerations before i drive from Mass to Key West? (knock on zebrano wood)

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1984 300CD

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=287152

^^ diy links for anyone browsing motor mounts

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1984 300CD

The length of time depends on how easy it is to undo the allen bolts on the two front mounts. I had no trouble getting mine out - but others have reported serious problems - so I guess it can be a frustrating job. Even so I would guess it would take a competent mechanic less than a morning to do the 3 mounts. If the bolts come out easily then within 2 hours if they've done the job before.

As for the engine shocks - they tend not to be changed that frequently - despite being a very easy component to change. I guess there are 2 ways of checking to see if they are not good. 1) If they are leaking => no good. 2) If you take one off and you can easily depress the plunger and pull it back out => no good. Have a look at the rubber mounts at either end of the shock - if they are cracked - I'd change the lot.

EDIT:-

And 4 posts lower what do I see?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=290241

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Make sure to remove the big lower one first,then jack up the engine to get at the upper 6mm hex bolts easier.
You can do it with just your mercedes jack and a jack stand or some wood. Jack up the car a decent height so you've got room, then when ready to raise the engine put the stand or wood under the oil pan (with a bit of wood between) and carefully lower the car jack until engine is raised enough. I find this easier than using another jack under the engine.
Of course you should back up the jack with another jack stand before going under the car, for safety.

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1983 300SD with bad undercarriage rust, with old greasecar 2-tank conversion. About 200K miles, just an adolescent but with premature bone disease.

This is from the DIY section http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617MotorMounts

I replaced mine when I installed the new engine. sure made it easy, but don`t think you want to remove the engine .

The one other time I replaced a set on a 123, we ran it up on ramps. blocked the rear wheels.

Remove the 8mm bolts under the mounts. be sure to clean the gunk out of the hole, then tap and set the bit well into the bolt. do not want to strip out the hole. I used a 1/2 in drive 6in extention and 18in breaker bar.

Remove the engine shock. 8mm nuts, use a 7mm open end on the flats on the shaft to keep it from turning. (the DIY said he used Vice Grips, that would bugger up the shaft. he also said he removed the shock, and made it easier to get to the inside 6mm bolt through the shock hole. never thought about that)

Pull the clips off the fan shroud.
Place a jack under the eng with a wide board across the pan, and raise the eng a few inches. be sure to clean out the hex bolt from any gunk, and remove the 2 bolts with a 6mm. slide out the mount, slide the new one in and bolt down.

Lower eng and install the 8mm bolts fron the bottom. be sure to clean off the threads, and be careful not to cross thread them.

Install the engine shocks. check to see how hard it is to push the shaft in. should be firm. probably the originals and shot.

I didn`t remove the shock, just removed the lower nut. when I lowered the engine I didn`t think about the shock. The shaft didn`t drop back in the mount hole, andpushed against the frame and shoved the shock up through the upper mount . think it is $50 for the upper mount.

I wouldn`t use the factory jack, it`s not the safest thing in the world. do it safely, last thing is having something slipping and falling. think safety.

For the Transmission mount, remove the 19mm nut that bolts the transmission the the mount. I use a 19mm box end to break it loose, then a gear wrench to remove it.

Jack up the transmission a little. place a board across the pan to protect it. remove the 2 14mm nuts that hold the rubber mount to the X mount. raise the trans enough for the mount to clear and remove it.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Hmm I didn't bother removing or loosening the shock,or checking it. Most cars don't have one. Not sure of it's function, probably to stop excessive vibration when you hit resonant frequencies. That would potentially make it smoother and also reduce strain on the mounts. I'll be interested to see how that goes in my car but mine is basically a "bomb" - a rustbucket so finesse is not an issue.

Re using factory jack, if it is backed up with a decent jack stand it would be safer than almost any jack on its own (due to redundancy) - except maybe the one installed on the space shuttle but then that's only designed for moon gravity...

Eg if the jack hypothetically has a 1/100 chance of failing (eg if you forget to both block the wheels and leave it in park) and the jack stand a 1/500 chance, that's a total 1/50,000 chance of failure. I'd bet my ribcage on that.

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1983 300SD with bad undercarriage rust, with old greasecar 2-tank conversion. About 200K miles, just an adolescent but with premature bone disease.

i think the engine shock is to damper the shudder on shutdown.

paddo- so, can i borrow your ribcage when I change the mounts?

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1984 300CD

Yes the shock is rarely used and pretty expensive. Make sure you care plenty of tools!

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

You mean as a jack stand? For now no, but if I'm ever ancient and bedridden I could volunteer as a human jack stand, just to feel useful.

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1983 300SD with bad undercarriage rust, with old greasecar 2-tank conversion. About 200K miles, just an adolescent but with premature bone disease.

Don't bother replacing the engine shocks, unless you want to spend the money. I accidentally destroyed mine by jacking the engine up without disconnecting them I haven't noticed a difference really.

Some 240Ds don't have even have the engine shocks as well.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Did the job last night, the mounts were THRASHED, especially the tranny mount. Made a huge difference, runs much smoother now. Factory shocks felt brand new.

One hangup was getting the larger bolt to align with the strut. The lift was twisting and no matter what we did the engine and new mount were a hair off. We ended up finding a perfect spot to wrench the engine around with a big screwdriver- on the back of the oil pan is a notch about an inch long, you can rest the screwdriver in here, with the shaft resting above on the pan. Just be gentle when you're shifting it around.

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1984 300CD