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  #1  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:13 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,220
82 300D How difficult to change a/c clutch?

My A/C pulley bearing decided to do the grind...so I had to cut the belt at work.

My question is, how hard is itto pull the clutch and pulley while the compressor is on the car? Will the puller fit in the limited space?

I can't complain too much since it did make it through four summers here in TX.

Thanks guys!!!

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:27 AM
TX76513's Avatar
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Location: Brandon, Mississippi
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I suppose you are going to do this on the W123? I have done this on my 300SD but could not becasue of space on the SDL. This is something I used as a reference (JAG) but it was helpfull
http://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/comclutch/index.htm
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00 E420
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97 S500
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:30 AM
Jeremy5848's Avatar
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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I think Sixto did this. Contact him.
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Our all-Diesel family
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  #4  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:52 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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I wish MB used the A-6 instead of the R-4...
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2011, 12:24 PM
funola's Avatar
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From all I've read, pulling the R4 clutch is not a job you want to do in situ on a W123. You need room for the puller and to get the puller threaded in, the R4 cannot have any rust on the shaft bolt. Good luck with that! I had my R4 on the bench and it was a very difficult job to pull the clutch because of rust.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2011, 12:54 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Location: Central California
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Here is another pictorial. I'm afraid your not going to have room to do the job. But you might if you remove the oil cooler and radiator.


http://www.xmanproject.com/tutorials/r4/r4_repair.php




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  #7  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:12 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Location: Royse City Tx
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I was thinking about just raising up the radiator and oil cooler to get stuff to fit. I do not want to remove the compressor, and the system works fine, and I do not want to spend more money on a new drier, oil and freon. I would if the compressor itself was toast, but it's not.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:13 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
From all I've read, pulling the R4 clutch is not a job you want to do in situ on a W123. You need room for the puller and to get the puller threaded in, the R4 cannot have any rust on the shaft bolt. Good luck with that! I had my R4 on the bench and it was a very difficult job to pull the clutch because of rust.
Rust is a PITA on any pressed fitting, and being that the compressor gets splashed on from nasty puddles full of crud, I hope there is no rust.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:23 PM
funola's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Rust is a PITA on any pressed fitting, and being that the compressor gets splashed on from nasty puddles full of crud, I hope there is no rust.
Wishful thinking! It'll be a miracle if you find no rust. Gonna be a miserable job unless you have a lift and can get things out of the way so you can see what you are doing.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:29 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Wishful thinking! It'll be a miracle if you find no rust. Gonna be a miserable job unless you have a lift and can get things out of the way so you can see what you are doing.
At least I do live in a rural are, so no road salt. A lift? That's funny! The only lift I have is a floor jack and jack stands...
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #11  
Old 01-06-2011, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 342
I did this on a 1982 300D (turbo) earlier this year. No lift, stands, or ramps, compressor in place. If'n I had it to do over again I'd leave the lines connected but drop the compressor.
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2003 Buick Regal
1983 300D (228k, frau Auto)
1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000)
www.engineeringworks.biz
1987 300SDL junker 170k
1982 300SD junker, 265k
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2011, 11:06 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoiseBenz View Post
I did this on a 1982 300D (turbo) earlier this year. No lift, stands, or ramps, compressor in place. If'n I had it to do over again I'd leave the lines connected but drop the compressor.
What tools did you use? And what was the step by step procedure? Same as the others?

Thanks man!

When I do this, I'll take pictures and post them.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2011, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
What tools did you use? And what was the step by step procedure?
Remove center fastener (12 or 13mm), make puller (handy to have a lathe), remove clutch, swap bearing, install clutch, wash hands for three hours.
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James Marriott
2003 Buick Regal
1983 300D (228k, frau Auto)
1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000)
www.engineeringworks.biz
1987 300SDL junker 170k
1982 300SD junker, 265k
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2011, 12:37 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I wish MB used the A-6 instead of the R-4...
That has been wished about a million times....
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  #15  
Old 01-08-2011, 12:39 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,290
The Factory Shop manual from MB on Air Conditioning... has step by step procedures..
and the special tools described to do it right...
I believe the distance on at least one item is critical... and very small....

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