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#1
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r12 manifold guages, ok to flush?
is it ok to run AC flush through my manifold guage set? I used them for freeze12 and I dont want to contaminate my r12 as I install it in the cd this summer.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#2
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I wouldn't bother. The gauge lines bleed down the instant you unhook them, don't they? I'm no AC tech but the gauges I've used don't have any "Holding capacity"... they're like a garden hose. Once you turn it off and unhook it it drains.
Unless you're asking about something with which I'm not familiar... which is very possible. Also, freeze 12 specifically advertises that it can be safely mixed with other refrigerants. So a trace amount (which is all that I can imagine would POSSIBLY be left... it is an evaporating gas after all) isn't going to hurt anything. |
#3
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I've sucked flush through my gauges in an effort not to introduce contaminants back in to a clean system. They are still working just fine. Your mileage may vary.
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'82 300D - Light Ivory, 2nd Owner (Back in the wind April 2013!) '95 E300D - White, grey interior. (Suffering from stuck/broken glow plugs) Deuteronomy 22:4- "Thou shalt not see thy brother's ass or his ox fall down by the way, and hide thyself from them: thou shalt surely help him to lift them up again." |
#4
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Quote:
yea theres some oil in there from the freeze12 install and Im also not sure if there arent some chunks of the old compressor that suffered black death. even after flushing everything my expansion valve got a blockage last time. I was just going to trash this guage set but I thought I might try cleaning them if it wont destroy the guages
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#5
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Certainly with your past incident we sympathize with your desire to really clean everything which is going to touch your AC system...
One possibility which I have suggested for a long time which could be used in this situation is to install an inline filter... just after ( downstream flow) where you are going to connect to the system... but before any other item in the system... it could be left there.... any time a black death has occurred it is a great insurance policy.. AND remember , the FSM calls for that metal ' manifold' on the side of your R4 to be REPLACED ( renewed as they like to say) ... not cleaned... it appears that it may have some filter inside which can not be cleaned properly in case of black compressor death... I highly recommend this guy on Youtube... he is a long time pro....and understands the big picture... his attention to detail and cleanliness is inspiring... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7FMoKVkrl4&feature=more_related
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#6
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You can flush your gauges with no problems. The flush agent I use on large systems runs right through my gauges. I usually have one set for each type of refrigerant that I use. All my manifolds have minimal loss ends which keeps refrigerant in the line and reduces the chance of contamination. a std.1/4" service line will hold about .5 oz. per foot. flush away!
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#7
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I think it would be prudent since so many ' flush' liquids have been mentioned in the threads over the years to check with the manufacturer of your gauges to see what flush is compatible with the seals in your gauges..... I would not assume things like acetone or the like are necessarily safe to use...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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you can safely run flush agent through a manifold, but it won't clean them. the hoses will absorb the contaminants. the manifold itself is cleanable, but the hoses are best replaced.
I have about 30 sets of hoses and manifolds I use for various jobs. evacs and reclaims from dead systems NEVER get hooked to new or service jobs... and my SPECIAL digital and jumbo sets NEVER get hooked to unknown condition systems.!!!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#9
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If you have a manifold set similar to the one in the video, they can be disassembled and cleaned. Be careful with any o rings or seals. I would not do it if there is not real serious contaminants in the hoses or manifold. Low loss hoses are really a good thing to have. I really like them. In the video the service valves should have been backseated before removing the hoses. This removes any chance of losing a charge due a shrader valve failure. Ask me how I know.
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#10
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Quote:
thanx. I now have 2 recyclers, one for r12 and one for r134. I plan to use 2 manifold gauge sets as well for the two systems. My charge scale has 2 circuits as well. I will order new hoses and flush the manifold before the job, thanx. I do have a can of real flush for equipment. I used mineral spirits for the car lines
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#11
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Quote:
I had trouble with the shraders as well. the first tiem I did the system everything checked out no leaks. after it was all done it leaked down. I found the low side shrader which had my hose on it during the test was leaking after I removed the hose. the second time it charged ok then the expansion valve jammed. im 0 fer 2
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#12
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Quote:
did you check it under pressure with nitrogen/ four oz r22 ? or did you only check it under vacuum ? Sometimes it will hold one direction but not the other.. slight movement of an oring can lose all your refrigerant charge.... of course the use of the correct color Nylog really helps too...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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