So I got my car registered. It starts up but smokes pretty bad. Brakes need work but it stops now.

I don't plan on going cross-country but I'm wondering if I'm gonna hurt the motor by taking it on little shakedown rides around town?

You should do no harm as long as you have the proper oil pressure, Engine is not overheating and there are no strange noises like a rod knocking.

You may want to examine the output line of the vaccum pump to make sure a defective diaphram is not feeding base oil into the intake. That could make itself known by smoking. Probably the smoking is something else but at least check that.

Also back then the injection pump has it's own oil supply. Read up about checking the level and consider changing the oil it as it may not have been done in almost forever.

While your at it pull the air cleaner if it has a paper element and inspect it for condition. A badly obstructed paper element can cause smoking. If uncertain run the car without the paper element for a block or two to tell. Just do not run in general without an air cleaner. I was sitting here wondering if you had an oil bath air cleaner.

If it mostly smokes upon startup...and much less after warming up and driving around... you may can fix that by putting new valve stem seals in.. very cheap maybe $20 ..... just some trouble installing .. but when you are in there doing a valve adjustment is a good time to do that..

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I am unsure about the air-cleaner. I'll check tomorrow when it stop raining. The smoking does seem to lessen after it warms up but it doesn't stop completely. I'll be sure to check the diaphragm and will defintly replace the valve stem seals when I do the valves.

The IP is definitely the kind with it's own oil supply. I removed the cap and couldn't see any oil. I've searched but can't seem to find the information on what kind of oil to use. All I've seen is, "fill it until it pours over."

This car is going to keep me busy for a couple of years but I don't mind. Getting the beast to stop well is first priority. Getting it to go faster than 50mph is second.

Air cleaner is going to be an oil bath type unless someone changed it out.

I would assume (and what I do), use the same type of oil in the IP that is used in the crankcase. I figure if the later models get their oil supply from the engine, that would make sense.

Some have said to use a heavier oil. Not to start an oil thread here, but the last time I changed the oil in my IP, a leak started. I use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my engines and I have to say, while the oil performs better at cold temperatures and probably lasts longer, I also now have minor oil leaks in everything, including my SUV & my lawnmower & pressure washer. I am not sure whether to blame that on the oil but it seems a bit too coincidental.

Anyway, enjoy your 220D. It'll probably be fine to drive around as is, but make sure you can stop OK (!)

__________________
1976 240D "Katja"

Id say it depends upon the nature of the smoke. Is it black? Blue? White?

If it is bluish and due to burning oil/bad valve guides, then no big deal. Sure it isnt optimal, but it wont hurt anything very fast.

My biggest concerns are if it is whitish/coolant is being lost (head gasket), or if it is black (fuel).

If the IP is out of oil, out of timing, etc., you could be getting improper injection and thus be washing down your cylinders with fuel... This is an issue as it will induce wear.

What have you done so far? If I were you, I'd do the following:

-Change oil/filter/airfilter
-Change trans and diff fluids
-change fuel filters
-flush brake fluid
-Drive a bit
-Change oil/filter again
-change PSF and filter
-Drive a bit

Then start tearing into systems... With a car that old, youl want to change many of the fluids multiple times to get to a baseline of fresh fluids and cleanliness. Just use what is cheapest at first (while meeting the right ratings of course) then you can move to your top selections.

Of course there will be other work intersperced. For example, lubing and timing the IP, pop testing and balancing the injectors, swapping GPs, brake services, etc. Do them where it makes sense, but dont put much off. I'd recommend replacing brake lines (rubber) and likely calipers as well, since rubber parts do degrade. If you have history/receipts, then you may have a better gauge.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Thanks for the advice! The list is exactly what I needed.

And I've also developed leaks in every motor that I've switched to full synthetic.