Gonna Start Working On a '81 240D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ashedd · #1 09-18-2011, 11:24 PM

I have a friend with a '81 240D that I am going to start working on. He has 3 main issues to start with. 1: Inop door locks, he can't lock the car. 2: No dash lights, can't drive at night, 3: Inop, power antenna.

So how do I arrive at prices to fix this stuff? The dash lights are easy, the antenna is a junky replacement(easy), The door locks I would have to read up on. It won't even lock with the key.. so I dunno. I identified several other things that will need attention, but these 3 are keeping him from driving it.

He's had it for just under 5 years and has never changed a fluid or filter.... but has only driven it 300-500 miles. The primary filter had blue/green fuel in it. It's a nice looking car with just over 100k miles. Everything works but the a/c.. R4 is missing a belt, will have to look at it in the spring. Even has 15" BBS wheels and what looks like rolled fenders to clear the huge tires.

So how do I arrive at estimates?

Walrus · #2 09-19-2011, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

... So how do I arrive at estimates?

hope I can attach a file that will help you a bit... maybe.

edit...
didn't work. Send me PM and email addy for Mercedes Labor Time.rar (archive file)

uneasysunday · #3 09-19-2011, 01:06 AM

why do no dash lights prevent you from driving at night? can't you just guess your speed, listen to the engine for shifting and turn on you interior lights to check your water temp every once in a while? Thats what I have been doing every night since I bought my 240D in April, but dash lights would be nice and are on my "list"

Lycoming-8 · #4 09-19-2011, 01:42 AM

Heck, even a flashlight can get you by for inside lites and or dash lites!!!

The door locks will likely require removal of the interior panels at a minimum, unless the keys are not the correct ones for the existing locks. I have one like that, where the drivers door is not keyed the same as passenger door and the only key just works the passenger door. Luckily that one is a parts car!!!

Phillytwotank · #5 09-19-2011, 08:13 AM

if that's the only three issues your having with the car then you are pretty good.

Dash lights - it's probably the dimmer knob aka the rheostat. it's not that bad. if you have the right screwdriver and crane your neck back behind the dash just right you don't really have to take too much apart to get at it. rebuild it http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123DashLightRheostat. Replace it $30-$40 or just straight wire it and loose the ability to dim the dash.

Antenna - forgetaboutit. no problemo. just replace it with an aftermarket. unless they want the original. then it's probly gonna be some pretty good $$.

Door locks - could be multiple things at this point. try this. sitting in the car with the engine running. does it lock up when you push down the driver door lock knob?? answer that question and the forum can guide you from there.

ashedd · #6 09-21-2011, 01:30 PM

So I'm looking at this shop time stuff I have.. what should I be charging as a shop rate? Keeping in mind I am just working from home.

Codifex Maximus · #7 09-22-2011, 02:15 AM

Sounds like algae in the fuel and vacuum line issues. Both are a bit of work. Algae first. Owner education second. Door locks third.

Your rates will depend on how good a friend he is and how much he is willing to pay. If he pays, he might be asking you to redo work cause it's busted again. If he doesn't follow a proper maintenance schedule then you may be getting in a pickle.

I think $20 USD an hour might be a fair price. YMMV.

whunter · #8 09-22-2011, 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

So I'm looking at this shop time stuff I have.. what should I be charging as a shop rate? Keeping in mind I am just working from home.

$20 USD an hour is a fair price.

I would tell him straight labor, not book time on a car more than 20 years old.
The book time frequently will be wrong, due to corrosion, brittle parts, repairs never covered by MB.

W123: Instrument cluster Printed Circuit Board repair
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/296474-w123-instrument-cluster-printed-circuit-board-repair.html

tankowner · #9 09-22-2011, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

I have a friend with a '81 240D that I am going to start working on. He has 3 main issues to start with. 1: Inop door locks, he can't lock the car. 2: No dash lights, can't drive at night, 3: Inop, power antenna.

So how do I arrive at estimates?

1. Door locks are most likely a vacuum issue you will have to sort out, or maybe the locks themselves are froze up. Either way, plenty of info can be found here on either.

2. On the dash lights, you may need to just pull the dash and replace bulbs.Oh, and check your fuses, too. But it could easily be a corroded rheostat. Work the light dimmer dial (also the tripometer button) back and forth about 50 times or so and see if you get any results. Do it in the dark and maybe you will get little flashes of light. If so, there is just built up corrosion on the rheostat connections. You can do one of two things there: (1) install a jumper wire to bypass the rheostat (full lights all the time, but no dimmer option . . . most dont mind because lights are generally dim even at full bright) or you can inspect the rheostat and see if it is worth refurbing (PeachPartsWiki: Dash Light Rheostat Rebuild

3. Sounds like you are just planning to replace the antenna motor - you can always crack it open first to see if it might be a simple fix inside.

Price estimates? If this is your friend you just shoot him some even numbers estimates based on what you think it will take and how much time you have to throw at it. Only you can answer that question. I suspect the door locks will take the most time.

tankowner · #10 09-22-2011, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

$20 USD an hour is a fair price.

W123: Instrument cluster Printed Circuit Board repair
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/296474-w123-instrument-cluster-printed-circuit-board-repair.html

Nice link, whunter. I think I will try this on the little circuit board in my dome light and see if I get results

ashedd · #11 09-22-2011, 10:33 AM

The dash lights(well one of them) worked when he first got it.. so it should be a simple fix. The antenna is aftermarket and he want's an OEM. The door locks are a can of worms. They semi worked at one time, but now nothing. If you put the key in the closed drivers door and turn it.. the lock will not move. Same with the back door... try to push the lock down and you can't. He said he is fine with it being disabled, just as long as he can lock it.

I pointed out all the other issues I saw. The algae in the fuel is a big one, especially if he wants to drive it this winter. So I quoted him $50 to replace the dash bulbs, and evaluate the door lock and antenna. I also told him I will fix his neg batt cable that needs replaced. I didn't want to give him sticker shock since I want to do more work on it in the future.

Did I mention he has a brand new looking, crack free blue dash! It really is a very nice 240D. Hope I don't break anything while doing repairs, I've been known to get impatient.

whunter · #12 09-22-2011, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

The algae in the fuel is a big one, especially if he wants to drive it this winter.

toomany MBZ · #13 09-22-2011, 10:48 AM

The locks sound as if they need some air.

Actually, they may need an open passage way. If air gets locked in the system, the diaphragm won't allow the lock to move.

ashedd · #14 09-22-2011, 10:57 AM

I think I'm going to start by disconnecting the lines under the drivers floor mat. Then see if they will lock manually.

I've been doing some reading, thanks whunter, and the fungi issues looks to be a big one.

whunter · #15 09-22-2011, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashedd

I think I'm going to start by disconnecting the lines under the drivers floor mat. Then see if they will lock manually.

I've been doing some reading, thanks whunter, and the fungi issues looks to be a big one.

Disconnect the large yellow valve at the bulkhead by the brake vacuum booster in the engine compartment.

Do NOT cap/plug the yellow valve, but do plug the vacuum supply hose going to it.

Test the manual lock system.