80 240D My rear shock dropped through rust!
 

Recently replaced rear shocks.
The mount where the bottom of the shock attaches rusted through- it obviously couldn't handle the firmer ride :o)
I don't know the name of the part and I can't get pics to load here for some reason.

The rusted out part has everything mounted to it- bottom of the shock, spring...and the rotor and parts are attached.
Man could I use a diagram of all of those parts- anybody got a resource?

Thanks in advance.

Of course, you leave the reader to simply guess.............because you don't bother to put a vehicle year and model in the post............although the posting guidelines clearly indicate that you are strongly encouraged to do so.

Well...........I'm going to guess that you need a new trailing arm.

Best garnered from a junkyard..............a new one is probably worth more than the car........:eek:

Sorry- it's an 80 240D.

I've got what appears to be a good looking one on my parts car- that's an 81 300D. Will those parts swap?

Thanks.

Yes, it's the trailing arm- thanks for the info.

Yes same part - also the first generation W126 steel trailing arms swap too

I am thinking a general inspection of the entire car is in order NOW.....
A Safety Inspection.... for rust obviously .... in critical areas....

X2
With winter approaching fast, the rust season is about for you.
You are lucky it was only the shock mount that broke.

Had a similar failure in my 82 300sd last summer. Sheared a bolt holding the shock to trailing arm. Drove to Sears for an easy out and the unsupported side of the shock torqued the other side off. A clever welder fashioned a new saddle for $45 and welded it into my trailing arm. Glad for the fix without having to remove the trailing at

I was thinking the same thing. A welder may be in order.

glad you have a parts car.
I've got a stack of good trailing arms in my garage now...

Check over those trailing arms real close. here is a couple threads where one broke.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2455666-post1.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2473382-post1.html

Charlie

Gonna have my mechanic look at welding a "saddle" tonite- this will be a short-term fix.
I want to replace both the rear trailing arms, since they both look rusty.
I have two on my parts car that I'd like to attempt to remove myself.
Is there a resource/step-by-step online to use?
The spring is the part that scares me- I know this must be done properly with the proper tools.
Please advise- please share pics/resources-
ps. the rest of the car doesn't have to stay in one piece, so if there's short cuts involving a sawzall or torch, let me know.

Also- what other parts/ seals/ rubber pieces should I replace/inspect/service while I have both trailing arms off?

Thanks in advance.
Jay
Cleveland Rust Zone

no problem to take out the rear trailing arms without special tools, the springs are not super dangerous at all in the rear.

just jack up the car, support the diff, and both trailing arms, disconnect all the shocks, caliper etc, then unbolt the diff mount 13mm bolts from the vehicle, then lower the trailing arm, and the springs fall out. remove the remaining bolts from the arms, and reverse with the replacements. now's a good time to replace the subframe mounts if they look bad. YOU WILL NEED A 5' CHEATER BAR TO REMOVE THE BOLT THROUGH THE SUBFRAME MOUNTS!!!

Loads of 'em here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/266324-w123-wagon-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-r-r.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297546-updated-version-whiskeydan-w123-trailing-arm-bushing-tool.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/300966-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303427-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm-rebuilt-replacement.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/281011-w126-cracked-trailing-arm-can-safely-welded.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276507-rear-subframe-removal-bushing-replacement.html

Don't worry too too much about the rear springs you can get them out WITH CARE with out a spring compressor - HOWEVER as you've got some rust issues I recommend that you do borrow / hire / buy a proper internal spring compressor just in case. The front springs on a W123 are the "killers".

I've taken two bolts off that are on the back of the caliper- one regular one, one with the knob on the end.....

what else to get the caliper off?