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  #1  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:34 PM
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80 240D My rear shock dropped through rust!

Recently replaced rear shocks.
The mount where the bottom of the shock attaches rusted through- it obviously couldn't handle the firmer ride )
I don't know the name of the part and I can't get pics to load here for some reason.

The rusted out part has everything mounted to it- bottom of the shock, spring...and the rotor and parts are attached.
Man could I use a diagram of all of those parts- anybody got a resource?

Thanks in advance.

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  #2  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:39 PM
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Of course, you leave the reader to simply guess.............because you don't bother to put a vehicle year and model in the post............although the posting guidelines clearly indicate that you are strongly encouraged to do so.

Well...........I'm going to guess that you need a new trailing arm.

Best garnered from a junkyard..............a new one is probably worth more than the car........
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:44 PM
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Sorry- it's an 80 240D.

I've got what appears to be a good looking one on my parts car- that's an 81 300D. Will those parts swap?

Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:47 PM
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Yes, it's the trailing arm- thanks for the info.
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:48 PM
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Yes same part - also the first generation W126 steel trailing arms swap too
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2011, 02:56 PM
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I am thinking a general inspection of the entire car is in order NOW.....
A Safety Inspection.... for rust obviously .... in critical areas....
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I am thinking a general inspection of the entire car is in order NOW.....
A Safety Inspection.... for rust obviously .... in critical areas....
X2
With winter approaching fast, the rust season is about for you.
You are lucky it was only the shock mount that broke.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:32 PM
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Had a similar failure in my 82 300sd last summer. Sheared a bolt holding the shock to trailing arm. Drove to Sears for an easy out and the unsupported side of the shock torqued the other side off. A clever welder fashioned a new saddle for $45 and welded it into my trailing arm. Glad for the fix without having to remove the trailing at
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  #9  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:40 PM
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I was thinking the same thing. A welder may be in order.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2011, 08:15 PM
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glad you have a parts car.
I've got a stack of good trailing arms in my garage now...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #11  
Old 11-26-2011, 03:47 AM
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Check over those trailing arms real close. here is a couple threads where one broke.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2455666-post1.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2473382-post1.html

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #12  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:30 PM
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Gonna have my mechanic look at welding a "saddle" tonite- this will be a short-term fix.
I want to replace both the rear trailing arms, since they both look rusty.
I have two on my parts car that I'd like to attempt to remove myself.
Is there a resource/step-by-step online to use?
The spring is the part that scares me- I know this must be done properly with the proper tools.
Please advise- please share pics/resources-
ps. the rest of the car doesn't have to stay in one piece, so if there's short cuts involving a sawzall or torch, let me know.

Also- what other parts/ seals/ rubber pieces should I replace/inspect/service while I have both trailing arms off?

Thanks in advance.
Jay
Cleveland Rust Zone
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:35 PM
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no problem to take out the rear trailing arms without special tools, the springs are not super dangerous at all in the rear.

just jack up the car, support the diff, and both trailing arms, disconnect all the shocks, caliper etc, then unbolt the diff mount 13mm bolts from the vehicle, then lower the trailing arm, and the springs fall out. remove the remaining bolts from the arms, and reverse with the replacements. now's a good time to replace the subframe mounts if they look bad. YOU WILL NEED A 5' CHEATER BAR TO REMOVE THE BOLT THROUGH THE SUBFRAME MOUNTS!!!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:40 PM
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...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Loads of 'em here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/266324-w123-wagon-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-r-r.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297546-updated-version-whiskeydan-w123-trailing-arm-bushing-tool.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/300966-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303427-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm-rebuilt-replacement.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/281011-w126-cracked-trailing-arm-can-safely-welded.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276507-rear-subframe-removal-bushing-replacement.html

Don't worry too too much about the rear springs you can get them out WITH CARE with out a spring compressor - HOWEVER as you've got some rust issues I recommend that you do borrow / hire / buy a proper internal spring compressor just in case. The front springs on a W123 are the "killers".
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2011, 03:29 PM
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I've taken two bolts off that are on the back of the caliper- one regular one, one with the knob on the end.....

what else to get the caliper off?

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