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80 240D My rear shock dropped through rust!
Recently replaced rear shocks.
The mount where the bottom of the shock attaches rusted through- it obviously couldn't handle the firmer ride :o) I don't know the name of the part and I can't get pics to load here for some reason. The rusted out part has everything mounted to it- bottom of the shock, spring...and the rotor and parts are attached. Man could I use a diagram of all of those parts- anybody got a resource? Thanks in advance. |
Of course, you leave the reader to simply guess.............because you don't bother to put a vehicle year and model in the post............although the posting guidelines clearly indicate that you are strongly encouraged to do so.
Well...........I'm going to guess that you need a new trailing arm. Best garnered from a junkyard..............a new one is probably worth more than the car........:eek: |
Sorry- it's an 80 240D.
I've got what appears to be a good looking one on my parts car- that's an 81 300D. Will those parts swap? Thanks. |
Yes, it's the trailing arm- thanks for the info.
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Yes same part - also the first generation W126 steel trailing arms swap too
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I am thinking a general inspection of the entire car is in order NOW.....
A Safety Inspection.... for rust obviously .... in critical areas.... |
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With winter approaching fast, the rust season is about for you. You are lucky it was only the shock mount that broke. |
Had a similar failure in my 82 300sd last summer. Sheared a bolt holding the shock to trailing arm. Drove to Sears for an easy out and the unsupported side of the shock torqued the other side off. A clever welder fashioned a new saddle for $45 and welded it into my trailing arm. Glad for the fix without having to remove the trailing at
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I was thinking the same thing. A welder may be in order.
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glad you have a parts car.
I've got a stack of good trailing arms in my garage now... |
Check over those trailing arms real close. here is a couple threads where one broke.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2455666-post1.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2473382-post1.html Charlie |
Gonna have my mechanic look at welding a "saddle" tonite- this will be a short-term fix.
I want to replace both the rear trailing arms, since they both look rusty. I have two on my parts car that I'd like to attempt to remove myself. Is there a resource/step-by-step online to use? The spring is the part that scares me- I know this must be done properly with the proper tools. Please advise- please share pics/resources- ps. the rest of the car doesn't have to stay in one piece, so if there's short cuts involving a sawzall or torch, let me know. Also- what other parts/ seals/ rubber pieces should I replace/inspect/service while I have both trailing arms off? Thanks in advance. Jay Cleveland Rust Zone |
no problem to take out the rear trailing arms without special tools, the springs are not super dangerous at all in the rear.
just jack up the car, support the diff, and both trailing arms, disconnect all the shocks, caliper etc, then unbolt the diff mount 13mm bolts from the vehicle, then lower the trailing arm, and the springs fall out. remove the remaining bolts from the arms, and reverse with the replacements. now's a good time to replace the subframe mounts if they look bad. YOU WILL NEED A 5' CHEATER BAR TO REMOVE THE BOLT THROUGH THE SUBFRAME MOUNTS!!! |
I've taken two bolts off that are on the back of the caliper- one regular one, one with the knob on the end.....
what else to get the caliper off? |
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the caliper is bolted onto the spindle near the center of the trailing arm with two 17 or 19mm bolts... there should not be any knob on them, just flat bolt heads.
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Umm
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/240945-plastic-sway-bar-end-link.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2769385-post6.html . |
yeah, but that would not be connected to the caliper... the caliper is on the other side. in the pics Whunter just provided, see the two round bolt holes? that's where the caliper connects.
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A 5ft cheater bar? Yikes!!!! maybe back east you do. out West, we just use a 18in breaker bar & or a 1/2 inch ratchet to break the 50Cal bolt loose. :D
Those are some good threads Army posted. Here is what I wrote on removing the rear suspension. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2519382-post48.html It seems harder to do the job reading through the posts, than actually doing it. afterward you will say, "That was a piece of cake". ;) Charlie |
yes- that's where the sway bar attaches- the bolt with the knob on the end-
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Wow- just looked through the links you gave me.
This forum is awesome. I'll probably have to post as I'm doing it- whenever I do do it- hopefully soon. Any advice on how to get pics to post here? It would really help. I've never had any luck at uploading pics. |
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Scroll down the page a bit until you see Additional options - there is an orange button on the left called "Manage attachments". You then get a pop up window (so you might get grief from your browser - allow pop ups from peachparts.com) Then click on the browse button to find the file - sorry this is as far as I can help - I have no idea where you put the pictures! |
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You can also e-mail roy@peachparts.com the pictures and a link to the thread you want them posted on. . |
Army- that's the steps I've taken- pretty sure I did everything properly- fairly computer savvy-
Not sure- will try again when needed- will just email pics like Hunter said if it doesn't work. Thanks. |
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