buggered threads in oil filter going to turbo

[jonrobinson01]

I think I have buggered up the threads going into the bottom of the oil filter housing where the high pressure oil line goes from the oil filter housing and to the turbo. I had the cracked oil line and fixed it now while putting it back on the line was in a bind and i guess I started the bolt wrong and now it wont go but a few turns into the threads. any advice?? try and put a tap into it from under the car and clean it up? pull the oil filter housing and then??? Im just frustrated to no end, the car has been sitting for about 3 months now all stemming from the oil line going to the turbo.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by jonrobinson01

I think I have buggered up the threads going into the bottom of the oil filter housing where the high pressure oil line goes from the oil filter housing and to the turbo. I had the cracked oil line and fixed it now while putting it back on the line was in a bind and i guess I started the bolt wrong and now it wont go but a few turns into the threads. any advice?? try and put a tap into it from under the car and clean it up? pull the oil filter housing and then??? Im just frustrated to no end, the car has been sitting for about 3 months now all stemming from the oil line going to the turbo.

You have my condolences!

If you have a Mechanical Pressure Gauge the Plate has an MSRP is $71 and the selling price is $57 a maybe plus shipping.

Way cheaper to get at a junk yars.

[kerry]

I'd probably make sure the problem was with the filter housing threads and not the bolt. Then I'd run in a tap in there with grease on it to catch any metal it cut out. I'd then try a new bolt into the chased threads. If that didn't work, I'd think about a new housing.

[macdoe]

Hello, I would think that section of the oil filter housing has, "already filtered" oil going to the turbo. You would'nt want to risk getting flakes of metal going to your turbo bearings.

I am pretty sure that on some oil filter towers...there is a plate that bolts to the back of the filter tower that is removeable. That removeable plate contains the threads that your turbo oil feed line hooks to via a banjo fitting...as well as the oil pressure sending unit just above it. It is hard to determine the removeable plate bolts since that area (on my engines anyways) is caked over with old oil deposits. Clean the area with a toothbrush and some sort of degreaser...and you will be able to tell for sure what I am talking about.

You could just get a new gasket and another used plate with good threads and replace it. Just four bolts.

I don't know for sure, but maybe Mercedes sells new plates and you can order one with your new gasket for that said plate. Maybe a new banjo fitting and two new crush washers too if it is cross-threaded. I think the oil line itself is very expensive if you need a new one. Some guys have built their own to save money.

Some of the more experienced guys will weigh in on your issue soon enough. Maybe wait for their response as I am no expert.

There is also a thread on here somewhere, that touches on the importance of the turbo oil feed line itself being attached in a couple of spots to the engine to avoid the line cracking due to vibration. Hopefully someone can attach it for you. I don't know how to do that.

As I was typing a response two others had already addressed your issue with a picture of the plate...sorry to repeat as I am a slow typer.

[macdoe]

Looking at Diesel911's picture...his has five bolts...and is different than the plate on the spare motor in my garage. I think his picture is of the plate for a mechanical oil pressure guage. The one I was looking at in the garage has an electrical sending unit and four bolts...shaped different as well. Both types appear to have the turbo feed coming from the removeable plate....so that is good news. To remove the oil filter tower itself entirely is a horrible job and messy too. Lucky you don't have to do that.
I guess looking at it now the electrical oil pressure sending unit is below the turbo oil feed fitting and not on top as I previously stated.

[jonrobinson01]

you guys are on the ball today! thanks so much for the pictures and advice! I have just about had it with this job so far haha it has just been a royal pain in my rear since i started. When I pulled that banjo bolt while laying in my yard I was absolutely covered in oil so im going to hope when I try to remove that plate it will not have much oil left in it haha I do not have anything lower than where the banjo fitting goes so im assuming i have a mechanical gauge. Any pointers for removing that plate? I really cant see anything under there and just going by feel to get the original banjo off. I need to take the toothbrush and go to town like suggested. I want to get as prepared as possible so I dont start the job, get filthy, then realize I need another tool, part i dont have, nothing grinds my gears like not being able to finish a job once started. Thanks again guys for the super fast and detailed answers!!!

[Diesel911]

There is still going to be some Oil left inside; it will come out when you pull off the Plate.

The Banjo Bolt hole is above the lowest spot on the Filter.

[jonrobinson01]

Fun Fun!

Anyone know what size bolts those are from memory? and what would the best method of extraction be? socket and wrench from below? maybe a ratchet wrench with offset head? Just wanting to get my plan off attack down Thanks for the input!!!

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by jonrobinson01

Fun Fun!

Anyone know what size bolts those are from memory? and what would the best method of extraction be? socket and wrench from below? maybe a ratchet wrench with offset head? Just wanting to get my plan off attack down Thanks for the input!!!

The Bolt Heads are either 10 or 12mm.

When I took of the Plate in the Pic I had the whole Oil Filter Housing off of the Engine so I do not know what would fit best under the Car.

I am guessing a 3/8" drive Ratchet Wrench with the correct socket would work as would a Combination Wrench of the correct size.
A Gear Wrench would be a nice compromise.

[jonrobinson01]

got it off... yup threads are messed up a little way in. any suggestions? maybe a tap and try to re thread?

[jonrobinson01]

Possibly run the tap in threw it from the back? since the threads are good from back to about halfway threw? I just hate to order a new one if I can fix this one. Any suggestions??

[kerry]

I'd run a tap thru it and see what it looks like. Of course, I would have run a tap through it before I took if off the housing, then pulled a vacuum on the shut off valve, and run the starter long enough to raise the oil pressure and blow out any bits of metal that may have stayed behind.

[jonrobinson01]

Originally Posted by kerry

I'd run a tap thru it and see what it looks like. Of course, I would have run a tap through it before I took if off the housing, then pulled a vacuum on the shut off valve, and run the starter long enough to raise the oil pressure and blow out any bits of metal that may have stayed behind.

There is not much room right there and I wanted to make dang sure I was going into it straight with the tap, its been years since I went to machine shop lol I just figured 6 fittings taken off would be better than me buggering it up worse. I still need to find out what thread that banjo bolt is and head to town to buy a tap. I will update on that. guess I have a little time since I need to order new crush washers for that banjo bolt

[kerry]

Take the bolt to the hardware store and try some nuts on it to get the right size before buying the tap.

[jonrobinson01]

yeah gonna have to do that so I dont come back with the wrong tap