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  #1  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:36 PM
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Swapping Steering boxes-Remove Pitman?

1984 300D

I might be swapping out my steering box with one that has the Pitman arm already attached. I am trying to get the steps for the swap figured out thoroughly before I begin.

Once I separate the drag link and track rod from the Pitman arm, do I need to remove the Pitman arm from the steering box before I can remove it from the car? Or will the other suspension parts be in the way and prevent me from removing it with the arm attached?

I would be much easier if I did not have to remove the pitman arm since the other box already has it attached.

I searched a number of posts, but do not see the answer.

Also, I can remove the tie rods if that helps me move the suspension parts out of the way so I can remove the box with the Pitman still attached.

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  #2  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:52 PM
He/Him
 
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I prefer to leave the Pitman arm on the car, that way you have much more room to mess with removing it.

To remove a steering box.
1. Drain the steering fluid.
2. Loosen the steering coupler and remove the bolt.
3. Remove the drag link and tie rod from Pitman arm.
4. Remove hoses (I do this at this step because I don't like things dripping on me)
5. Remove 3 bolts from driver's wheel well.
6. CATCH THE SUCKER BEFORE IT HITS THE GROUND.

Before all of that I'd also jack the car up on stands and remove the driver's wheel.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:53 PM
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It is obvious what needs to be disconnected once you get into it. Either leave the Pitman arm attached to the steering box or the linkage depending on what is easiest.

The Pitman arm only fits on the shaft 1 way. Be sure to start with wheels straight ahead and the box centered. Count the turns lock to lock then turn back 1/2 the number of turns to center tne box.

Various gear pullers are available from the parts store. Pickle forks tend to tear the rubber boots. Energysuspension makes boots and bushings in case you need some and can't buy them off this site.
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  #4  
Old 04-11-2012, 10:01 PM
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If you go the route of removing the Pittman Arm -- good luck on that. I cannot make mine budge no matter what I do.
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2012, 10:10 PM
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Exactly what I needed

Thanks for the info. That is exactly what I needed to know.
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  #6  
Old 04-12-2012, 03:40 AM
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I removed one in the Junk Yard off an old 240D. left the arm on, and just removed the drag link/tie rods, coupler etc... I found some old carpet to let it drop down onto after removing the 3 mounting bolts to keep it out of the dirt.

I didn`t know about the pitman only fitting on one way, so left it on.

Charlie
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  #7  
Old 04-12-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
If you go the route of removing the Pittman Arm -- good luck on that. I cannot make mine budge no matter what I do.
I'm getting pretty good at removing them now. But it still takes on average three days of soaking them with PB Blaster and a little bit of heat at the end.

The first one I tried to remove I broke several pullers in the process.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #8  
Old 04-12-2012, 12:23 PM
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I think all my MB's just about need new steering boxes. The SD's for sure. I've put it off mostly because of the price of a rebuilt box and me not really wanting to mess with removal/installation.

How long does it take on average to remove/replace the box?
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  #9  
Old 04-12-2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
I think all my MB's just about need new steering boxes. The SD's for sure. I've put it off mostly because of the price of a rebuilt box and me not really wanting to mess with removal/installation.

How long does it take on average to remove/replace the box?
If you have all the tools next to the car... about 20 min to get it out if everything fights you and about the same getting it back in... after the box falls on your arm/head/thigh/hand a few times.
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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #10  
Old 04-12-2012, 01:01 PM
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Just as a heads up - check out chapter 46-510 in the FSM - it has a whole list of what is allowed to fit and what isn't.

Also once the Pitman arm and new steering box is fitted you are meant to check the relative heights of the Pitman arm and the idler arm as part of the front end alignment check.

I don't expect anyone to do it - but if you have trouble later on with front end alignment then remember this bit of information!
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  #11  
Old 04-12-2012, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Just as a heads up - check out chapter 46-510 in the FSM - it has a whole list of what is allowed to fit and what isn't.

Also once the Pitman arm and new steering box is fitted you are meant to check the relative heights of the Pitman arm and the idler arm as part of the front end alignment check.

I don't expect anyone to do it - but if you have trouble later on with front end alignment then remember this bit of information!
Good too Know, thanks
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  #12  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:02 PM
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While the steering box is out...

If you have any type of leak from the oil filter housing mount, now's the time to replace the gasket. With the box out you have easy access to the bolts holding it in. Otherwise you need the cut-down allen key.

And have plenty of rags packed around the box while in transit. You'll think you've got all the fluid out, but you don't, and it'll find its way onto something important.

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