Hi all, I have a 1980 300 SD and will be installing a vacuum pump in about a week.

I have read several posts on the topic.

Does anyone have any experience, tips, or suggetions to make things go smoothly.

It looks to be take off/bolt on process but i would not dare say simple until after the fact.

I have a gasket and will use ultra light blue RTV just to hold the gasket in place and will torque the bolts in a cross pattern at 10nm.

Other items?? Thanks

You don't need any RTV or Make A Gasket.

Be Very,Very careful Torquing those Bolts!(You're putting Steel into an Alloy)
If the FSM does not publish torque specs for that engine's Vacuum Pump Bolts,
look up the torque based on the Diameter of the Threaded portion of the Bolt.

MB does not provide Torque figures for the 601,602,603 series engine's pumps.
But I seem to remember 6-7 Nm.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Well put- thanks for that info both on the dry fit and torque. I have heard of using "high tack" not as a gasket maker but it is used as a gasket holder when trying to jimmy that pump into position.

I expect a '80 SD has a piston vacuum pump? If so you'll notice that the timing device has a rollercoaster-like track upon which the "wheels of the vacuum pump" run. If these tracks are not in a favourable position - so that means the vacuum pump's wheels are not in the dip - rotate the crankshaft (and thus the timing device) so that you don't have to fight against the return spring in the vacuum pump.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

+1 on this. I just did my VP on an om603, so you will probably have an easier time with the 617.

Yikes, Murphy's Law. How does one rotate the crankshaft? I am guessing by hand but not so sure on a high compression engine how easy that is to do. Great advice guys, thanks.

The best way to turn the crank is to use a 27mm socket on the crankshaft pulley nut. Only turn this nut as though you are doing it up - so standing in front of the engine looking at it (looking towards the back of the car) you turn it clockwise.

If you find that the compression hinders your progress it is safe to remove each of the glow plugs from the cylinders. Do not remove the injectors unless you plan on replacing the heat shields as these are a fit only once items.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks again, turn the crank in the normal direction of the engine as if it were running- Got it. I am really glad I posted this question (and got replies) clearly not having a clue