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  #16  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Inside the vacuum hose from the pump? If it's inside the manifold it could be coming from the IP.
Well, there is oil pretty much everywhere in the intake manifold, but there is a lot in the vacuum hose connection from the vacuum pump and there is oil adjacent to all the connections (in-line check valve) for the hose. Also, the sheer quantity of oil and very rapid loss of crankcase oil plus the fact that the front two cylinders are the ones with obvious oil in them, lead me to believe it is the vacuum pump.

However, I just checked the oil level of the IP and it is really low. It has been quite a while since I checked it, so I'm not sure what is going on there. Thinking about it, I guess my plan of attack would be to rebuild the vacuum pump, clean up the intake as best as possible, refill the IP and then watch to see what happens. But, I am totally open to suggestions.

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  #17  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:34 AM
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A ruptured diaphragm of the IP governor will cause a high idle with smoke (too much diesel and too little air because the air valve is still closed), it is difficult to suck oil from the IP sump in that case, because the oil level is much lower and the vacuum hose is up high.

A tear in the vacuum pump diaphragm pumps oil into the intake manifold because of the pumping action of the pump and the pressure inside the engine.

Another possibility of oil in the intake manifold is the air filter: too much oil can cause oil to be sucked into the engine.

If your vacuum pump diaphragm tears and you want to do an emergency repair, disconnect the air hose from the vacuum pump to the intake manifold and close the hole in the manifold by means of a large bolt or similar, otherwise the IP governor cannot work properly anymore.
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  #18  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:09 AM
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I am for disconnecting the line from the vacuum pump. Putting the end of the line in a receptical to catch any oil if it appears. Plus needless to say it would be absolute proof the oil is coming from that source. Closing off where the line goes to.

Driving the car to see if the symptom still exists or not. Otherwise you are going to rebuild the vacuum pump perhaps when there is no need. Or it is totally eliminated as the source if you get even one episode.
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  #19  
Old 10-01-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
I am for disconnecting the line from the vacuum pump. Putting the end of the line in a receptical to catch any oil if it appears. Plus needless to say it would be absolute proof the oil is coming from that source. Closing off where the line goes to.

Driving the car to see if the symptom still exists or not. Otherwise you are going to rebuild the vacuum pump perhaps when there is no need. Or it is totally eliminated as the source if you get even one episode.
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  #20  
Old 10-01-2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Yep, the caterpillar guy. I can't remember his user name either.
It was Ronkat81 this thread =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/306080-high-idle-white-smoke-shifting-funny-help-75-240d-3.html
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  #21  
Old 10-06-2012, 09:12 AM
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Update and Lessons Learned

I have rebuilt the vacuum pump and the car is running well. I appreciated the additional diagnostic suggestions but the diagnosis was confirmed when I removed the vacuum lines at the pump and they and the pump were dripping oil. Once I got the pump apart there were two slices in the diaphram where oil was getting through.

I learned or relearned some lessons on this job. First, one that my Dad taught me years ago, always turn the engine over by hand before using the starter on any job that has mechanical connections. After rebuilding and reattaching the pump I turned the engine over by hand and it bound. The trouble turned out being the screw that attaches the vacuum pump diaphram. The replacement that came in my rebuild kit was a little longer than the original and was causing the pump to bind. Which leads to the second lesson, make sure all parts are exact matches before installing them. Don't install if they are not exact. A third lesson was that on these older cars, if you can remove the flathead screws that attach the diaphram, the pump can be rebuilt by leaving the main body of the pump on the car and just taking off the diaphram and check valves.

I do want to say thanks for everybody's help and suggestions on this job!

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