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  #1  
Old 03-11-2013, 05:59 PM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Help with 300 TD turbodiesel w123

Hello everybody,

This is my first post in the forum and I´d like to introduce myself. I live in Spain and have recently acquired a 1982 mb 300 td turbo w123 euro version.

I knew the car from before I bought it as the owner from new was my neighbour, but he is old now and having other modern cars was giving very little use to it in the last years and finally agreed to sell it to me.

I´ve had some work done to it since I bought it (mainly refreshing all the fluids and filters and a good clean up of the fuel tank), new tyres and some adjustments to the ALDA and throttle linkage to try to improve response, and now it runs quite fine (it has 380.000 original kilometers).

I still have a couple of problems, though, as I have engine oil getting into the SLS reservoir. I´ve searched the internet in order to solve it and am aware of the need to rebuild the Hydraulic pump in the engine bay to reseal it. To do that I´ve ordered a kit from MB dealer that includes o-rings and gaskets (3 pieces) but I´ve read that the pump has two more o-rings that need to be replaced for a complete rebuild.

I would like to ask for your help to try to discover the real dimenssions of those two extra o-rings. I know they are viton o-rings (80 FPM).

The best information I´ve been able to find is that they might be 2-137 and 2-142. That´s equivalent in the metric system (the one we use in spain) to 52,07x2,62 and 59,99x2,62 but in some german forum someone says that they could be 53,65-2,62 and 62,00-2,00 instead. So, could anyone confirm me the correct measures?

I´d like to be as accurate as possible to the original o-rings size.

I know ************** has complete kits with all the parts needed, and if I was in the states I would order it from there for peace of mind, but now that I got half of the parts ordered from the dealer it´s easier for me to get the viton o-rings here, just need to confirm the dimenssions, and I would be grateful if someone could help.

The other problem I still have is the poor performance of the car when it is below service temperature. I´ve got nothing to compare with but whenever I take the car for a ride after days without using it, for a good while the car has poor response to the throttle, barely catches speed, even after waiting some minutes before moving you have to accelerate a lot, almost to kick down and you still don´t get it to accelerate properly. If you find a hill during those first minutes it looks like it´s not going to be able to get to the top and eventually you´ll have to reduce gears to S or even L.

Once you reach service temperature it goes fine accelerates well and can reach 160 km/h or so without problem and goes up hills at 100 km/h

Greetings from Spain and I hope you can help me with the o-rings

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  #2  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:10 PM
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Answer

It is documented in here several times.

Self Leveling Suspension = SLS hydro pneumatic
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/151991-self-leveling-suspension-%3D-sls-hydro-pneumatic.html#post1155925


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  #3  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:22 PM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Hi whunter,

Thanks for your quick response. I´ll check the links you posted to see if there is something that I missed, I have searched a lot before posting this thread and know the process of the rebuild quite well, the problem is that from what I read I haven´t been able to verify the real measures of the two extra o-rings for the sls pump in the engine bay.

The dimenssions of the level regulation pump o-rings are in one of the post you put in your response and I had read it before but unfortunately they weren´t the ones I need.

As I said I´ll check again but in the meantime if someone can solve it I´d be grateful

Regards
Ik1
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  #4  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:37 PM
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as for the weak performance after a time parked, it points to air leaks, in the fuel lines. the easiest way to find leaks is to bend the lines, and they'll weep fuel, or show cracks. also, if you pressurize the fuel tank, to about 1 or 2 psi, (I use a shop vac) the lines that are leaking will show fuel most often.
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  #5  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:47 PM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Thanks vstech,

I hadn´t thought about that, will have it checked.

By the way I´ve checked the threads whunter pointed out but I still can´t find the size of the o-rings

Greetings
ik1
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  #6  
Old 03-11-2013, 08:33 PM
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welcome ik1 !!
For fuel leaks, first tighten all the hose clamps on your fuel lines.
for O rings, I would take the pump to a bearing place & try before you buy. it would be just your luck that for some reason MB had more than one size for different countries !
Good Luck with your car !
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2013, 10:08 PM
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Found this You Tube Video, it may be of help. the guy shows two Viton "O" Rings. Lower pump housing Viton# 2-142. and Upper pump seal ring Viton# 2-137. they may not come in the MB kit.

Rebuilding the Self-Leveling System Pump in a W126 Mercedes - YouTube


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/180609-sls-pump-rebuild-kit-components.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/306343-sls-pump-leak-unusual.html

Hope these help and aren`t a repeat of one`s listed above.

There is a thread a while back of installing a W124 double steering/sls pump onto a W123. another option.

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  #8  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:08 AM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Hi Layback40,

Thanks for your advise, I´ll check the fuel lines!

As for the pump, my mechanic is going to do the job and I will source him the parts needed. We ordered the dealer kit but as I said, I wanted to have the extra 2 O-rings if possible before disassembly so I won´t have to wait for days with the car in the garaje to get the O-rings (those Viton O-rings are not in stock in the shop where I´ll get them so once I order them I´ll have to wait two or three days for them to arrive.

As for the size, I think that the pumps are the same in different contries (at least for what I´ve seen) and fit different models (W123, W124, W126, W201, etc).

Charmalu has given good information. The youtube video of the W126 is where I had taken my previous imput from, and there it says he used 2-137 and 2-142. But he also says that 2-137 he used is larger than stock¿¿??

But in the second link he mentions

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/306343-sls-pump-leak-unusual.html

we have this:

" #7 10-07-2011, 10:58 PM
libbybapa
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Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 210

I got the leak fixed today. I couldn't find anyone with large enough metric o-rings locally and so went with standard ones that were as close as I could find. The ones I used were 3/32" CS x 2-1/8" ID, 1/16" CS x 2-1/2" I/D, and 3/32 CS x 2-1/2 I/D. The one with the smaller I/D went on the outside of the center hub (red in the picture above). The smaller CS of the two with the same ID went around the hub and the larger CS one went in the bottom of the case. With the proper o-rings, the two larger o-rings would be the same with a measurement of 2mm CS x 62mm and the single outer one would be 2mm CS x 54mm. Those measurements are a "best guess" and I obviously hold no responsibility if those measurements do not work for someone in the future. As far as pump dis-assembly is concerned, just pull the shaft out along with the bushing and then tap the case flat onto a piece of wood in order to pop the center hub out. No need to remove the pistons and the center ?stainless? ring. HTH."

And then this member from france says:


#22
11-25-2011, 10:18 AM
tarnbarn
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Hi,
I changed the O-rings last week, I found 3 of them. I agree that two 2mmx63 and one 2mmx53 do the job. I just measured them with a caliper, called a local hydraulic outfit and got them picked up by somebody who happened to be passing.
I paid less then 10 euro for the rings, used silicone in place of the paper gasket, had it off, repaired, refitted and bled inside 30 minutes. This is a very simple repair, just remember to treat your 1200 dollar piece of aluminium with respect!

There is still no complete coincidence but it looks that the real measures can go something like 62x2 mm (tarnbarn says 63 but the used o-ring can be a bit stretched) and 53 or 54 x 2 mm, so they where nearer to the german forum.

In my case, one of the 62X2 (the one around the hub) should be the one that comes in the Dealer kit, and so I need another 62X2 for the bottom of the case and one 53 or 54x 2 mm for the outside of the center hub.

Would this be definitive?
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2013, 02:42 PM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Hi,

My mechanic finally did the job about a month ago. He resealed the pump, flushed the circuit, changed the fluid and I sourced him an almost new used reservoir that was also changed.

When I picked the car I was really happy with the results, and you could see that the rear of the wagon was visually at a correct level (notably higher than before even after staying parked for days, maybe he also regulated the valve in the rear when he did the job).

The next day I drove the car for around 70 miles stopping for a couple of hours in the middle of the ride and when I got back I left it parked for 2 or 3 weeks just to see if after so long the rear sagged again and the reservoir was leaking again.

After those three weeks without moving or starting the engine, I couldn´t see any drop of fluid out of the reservoir, in the floor or in the engine bay (I checked it) and the fluid was to level. But then, next day I took the car for a small ride (two or three miles) and parked it again and when I came back to where it is parked again four or five days later it was a mess. The floor and the engine bay had a good amount of fluid (blackish) and the reservoir was completely full and leaked through the dipstick hole in the upper part of the reservoir. Also the rear was a little lower than when was parked for so long just after four or five days.

I don´t know what can have gone wrong so suddenly after the initial success. The mechanic used the MB kit and I sourced him the rest of the O-rings (even different measures to choose the proper ones from) when he did the job.

Any advice of what to do now?

I´m a little pissed. I thought I had solved the problem after having it parked for so long without leaks after beeing driven, and now I´m not sure if I should try to rebuild the pump again or try to get another used one that could give the same problems, or what to do (I am aware a new one is around 1.000 $ or so, and at that price I´ll have to find another solution).

I have to say that the current pump looks fine from the outside and doesn´t leak from its body. It´s just what I described, engine oil getting to the SLS circuit, topping the reservoir and leaking badly to the floor.

Any help would be really appreciated

Greetings
Ik1

Last edited by ik1; 05-13-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2013, 03:05 PM
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Take it back to your mechanic, he should warranty his work.
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  #11  
Old 05-13-2013, 06:14 PM
ik1 ik1 is offline
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Hi,

I will take it to the mechanic for sure. He is an independent mechanic who has now his own shop but for years he worked for volvo and MB official dealers. I have to say that he changed all the fluids and did a general tune up before the pump rebuild and both the attention and prices were ok.

It is just that before I talk to him about the failed rebuilding and the solution he offers, I´d like to hear your advise about what would you recommend, if a new rebuild would work or if it´s losing time, especially taking into account that many of you have probably been there before.

Greetings
Ik1

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