If you want to replace a trailing arm I'd most certainly remove the subframe to make it easier for yourself. It might sound like much more work but the fixings for the trailing arms are a bugger to reach.

There's loads of information in this thread (largely thanks to Charmalu and dieseldan)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276507-rear-subframe-removal-bushing-replacement.html

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

when replacing the 'trailing arm' (what I call the lower control arm--is it the same thing?), should i also replace the metal bracket that holds the pin like bolt, as well as that pin like bolt itself? what about the subframe bushings? is the subframe bushing easy to replace if you loosen the subframe enough to remove the lca?

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Lower control arm is used to describe a similar(ish) part on the front suspension. The trailing arms trail (behind) from their mounts on the sub frame.

Pin-like bolt? Metal bracket? Are you talking about the bits on the sub frame here =>



I think even the FSM says to loosen the sub frame on one side (and perhaps the diff mount too?) - support it - and then tackle the trailing arm fixings.

Removal of the whole sub frame is most certainly excessive if you look at what the book says...

...but it kind of doesn't say how you should be careful of older sub frame mounts. To lower the sub frame enough to get to the trailing arm fixings you need to drop it quite a way and you'll twist the sub frame mounts in doing so. This kind of "abuse" could finish them off. It might not; but then again trailing arms sren't expected to rust in the FSM are they?

My advice is kind of doctored to suit an old car - and as I said previously it is way easier to fix the trailing arms in position with the sub frame removed.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!