W123 Tie/Drag Rods and Idler Arm Rebuild DIY

[JHZR2]

Another in my set of DIY based upon recent work performed on my 1982 300CD. I had a torn tie rod boot, and some knocking/play in my idler arm, so it all got rebuilt/replaced. This is how it was all done. All of it was quite easy, and is less than a day's work.

Tools needed:
Impact/lug wrench
Jack/jackstands
Pickle fork (optional)
Tie rod/pitman arm/balljoint separation tools
Allen wrenches
Combination wrenches
Ratchets, 3/8, 1/2 and even 3/4 drive if available
Adjustable wrench
Needlenose plier

The first key to the project is to get the car up in the air. Jacking it up and putting it on jackstands is the preferable method. I use a Heavy US-made 2-ton hydraulic jack to lift up the front from under the engine support.



Of course then the wheels must come off. I locked the steering wheel in position so that at least the box and its arm would be correct, thus forcing the idler arm to be correct and hopefuly letting me size the new tie rods in place. More on all that later.

An impact gun always helps to make it easy.







I started from the passenger side just because that was where the torn boot was. It wasnt bad, not rusty or terribly dirty, but was contributing to play on the wheel.





New style tie rod ends utilize a locknut generally, but older ones utilize a castle nut and a cotter pin. I dont know that either is better/worse, but the cotter pin type needs a needlenose. You simply bend the cotter pin and then pull out, after which the nut on the tie rod end balljoints can be loosened and removed.









I have a pickle fork, and tried using it, especially since there was nothing to loose on this joint. Hammering it in didnt do much. Maybe it I swung extra hard it would have come out, but I just dont have a good feel for how hard is too hard. Instead I opted for acquiring a set of OTC tools which can be used for popping the joints. The kit I used is OTC-6295, from Amazon. This kit has two main items that are used, an enclosed version of a C-clamp (for lack of better explanation) and a three-point hinged press. You will see both in the following pictures. Each is shown in the true MB part form in the FSM, and you cannot easily get away with just one. Each has its application point depending upon which joint is being separated due to space and accessibility.







After the outer was off, then it was time for the inner. It was easier to bend it to make tool access to the joint more straightforward.









The job continues on with the drag link on the idler arm. Note a few things. The second tool gets used here, and the steering shock also needs to be removed from where it bolts to the body of the car.