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  #1  
Old 04-17-2013, 09:11 PM
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bleeding/purging IP after delivery valve reseal

I have read the thread on the delivery valve washer/o-ring replacement several times and a few other threads on DV/IP work and very impressed with the caliber of contributors to this forum! So I recently replaced the copper washers and o-rings. Before taking them off I sprayed brake cleaner around the valves to make sure it was very clean. After taking out the valves I noticed there was still some fine grit around the threads so I took a q-tip dipped in brake cleaner to clean the threads up. So, before I connect the fuel lines to the injector I wanted to run fuel through the IP. Is this possible? I connected clear polyvinyl tubing over each valve and have turned the engine over for quite a while and no fuel comes out of the DV's. Just want to make sure there is no contamination before getting to the injectors.


Last edited by 96E300D; 04-17-2013 at 09:14 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96E300D View Post
I have read the thread on the delivery valve washer/o-ring replacement several times and a few other threads on DV/IP work and very impressed with the caliber of contributors to this forum! So I recently replaced the copper washers and o-rings. Before taking them off I sprayed brake cleaner around the valves to make sure it was very clean. After taking out the valves I noticed there was still some fine grit around the threads so I took a q-tip dipped in brake cleaner to clean the threads up. So, before I connect the fuel lines to the injector I wanted to run fuel through the IP. Is this possible? I connected clear polyvinyl tubing over each valve and have turned the engine over for quite a while and no fuel comes out of the DV's. Just want to make sure there is no contamination before getting to the injectors.
If the Delivery Valve Holders are torqued down you can leave the Fuel Injection Lines off and crank the Engine. However, Fuel can shoot up as much as 2 feet especially if there is some Air Bubbles compressed behind the Delivery Valves. Keep your face away and put a drip pan under the Car.

If you have it blow the Injector Hard lines out with compressed Air.

After that Install the Fuel Injection hard Lines but leave the Nuts of the Lines on the Injector ends of the Lines a little loose and crank until you get Fuel out of them. And then tighten the Nuts and attpemt to start.

That is the fastest way to get trapped Air out and at the same time wash anything inside of the lines out.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:49 PM
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Thanks, I guess I need to keep cranking it then.. Have kept the hard lines sealed, so mainly concerned about the pump. total time cranking so far has been about 4 or so minutes..
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:12 AM
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Thanks, I guess I need to keep cranking it then.. Have kept the hard lines sealed, so mainly concerned about the pump. total time cranking so far has been about 4 or so minutes..
I thought you were concerned about the Dirt migrationg to the Injectors.

Air trapped in the Fuel Injection Hard Line compresses and only moves a little on down the line. That is bad enough on the 617s. On the later Engines with Fuel Injection Hard Lines about 3 times as long it is even wores.
If you loosen the Hard Line Nuts at the Injectors the Air has a way to escape more quickly.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:44 AM
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Dirt migrating is the concern, my thoughts were if the lines were unbroken at the injectors, the lines would retain the fuel, kinda like a straw in a glass when the top of the straw is held, no liquid comes out. Then once the pump was bled, I would connect the lines and be okay. what do you think?
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:14 AM
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OK but let us know how long it takes to Crank and start; remember My last comment was about Air in the Lines.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:16 AM
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OK but let us know how long it takes to Crank and start; remember My last comment was about Air in the Lines.
And, where are our other Members to comment on your Thread??? Someone ought to disagree or agree or have another idea.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:54 AM
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No worries, we Californian's will have our own conversation..lol. As an experiment, I opened the nut on #6 injector with the line disconnected at the DV and sure enough, fuel starting dripping out, so there was fuel still in the lines. I then closed it, and after fuel came out of all the DV at the IP I connected the fuel lines. After tightening the lines at the DV, I then opened the lines at the injectors, put some clear vinyl tubing on and cranked it. Fuel immediately came through except for #6 which I had opened. Eventually fuel came out of #6. I will finish cleaning up the manifolds and clean some of the junk out of the intake ports on the head and put it back together. Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:32 PM
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I was not Born in Californa but have lived here since I was 3 years old; so California is My Home. That would have been in 1955 We moved here.

The only time I was gone was 3 years in the Army. Even the I had Basic Training at Fort Ord CA.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:10 AM
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That would qualify, makes you about 8 years older than me... Born and raised.. spent a year in Dallas for a bible school..

Well, she fired right up! Took it for a drive and about 5 minutes into it, lost an injector 10 minutes later going up an incline slowly, it came back.. Now just need to figure out new check engine and hard shifting tranny..
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:06 AM
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Final thoughts/post on this repair.. I had replaced all the vacuum hoses that had obvious wear/cracks but missed the one below the air cleaner assy. After replacing that one (it had a rather large hole underneath), hard shifting went away along with the check engine light. Thanks for the help Diesel911!
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:53 AM
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You are welcome. Hope you get some driving in bofore the next repair job!

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