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  #1  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:43 PM
NoSparkNeeded's Avatar
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Axel CV boots

What would an average indie charge for cv boot replacement? I can buy a flexx gun and boots, and do my wife's SD an my TD, but if a shop is set up
for this I figure maybe 250.00 for the job. The gun is 200.00 and the boots likely 75 a set, I'd guess. I'm getting to the age where axel pulling
doesn't sound all that appealing. Advice anyone

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  #2  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:01 PM
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This job is one of the most frustrating I have ever done on a W123 - it is so bloody simple and yet so bloody awkward and irritating with a boot gun (which cost me 100 euros new by the way so may be you need to shop around a bit more?) because those sodding rubber johnnies keep on splitting on me.

Get in touch with vstech - he does this sheet as a sideline he'll be able to point you in the right direction for the good non splitting flexx boots. I spent a fortune on those things before I finally got two in place - I can't get the good boots here apparently...

...alternative to the boot gun is a cone - but then you need fingers of steel and finger nails to match...

I hate this job so much I've cut the cans on my homokinetics and went through the whole can replacement process. At least now I have the grown up rubbers on there that will last for a long long time. Well they better had after all that!
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:09 PM
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Just add Diesel.
 
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I concur with Stretch. Id rather perform a vasectomy on myself before I do the boots ever again. I actually ripped some skin off my thumb trying to get those darn boots on. Never again. And since the axles were shot anyway, VStech provided me with great quality axles that I was happy to install instead of going through the pains of getting those boots on. Without a gun...
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1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
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1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
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2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
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  #4  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:43 PM
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Yes I've done some mighty annoying repairs on vehicles I've owned. Like a shift kit
in a Jag XJSV12. Yeah its only a T400 but I actually cried while doing that as it was
so frustrating, a little valve body with a circlip. I always see things through, so starting something like this, is like
replacing a windshield. I've done that 3x on different cars and will never do it again.
That vasectomy,LOL, I personally worked for a surgeon that did his own. We talked
about it. Yes I'd do my own before I'd RE-DO that shift kit or change a windshield,hehe
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:46 PM
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So anyone pay for the service? I'd like to get an idea. Until I got old I would NEVER
have even had the thought of paying anyone for anything.
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2013, 07:42 PM
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Many on the forum have had good luck with CVJ Axles.
CVJ Axles - Remanufactured Axles & Power Racks

I emailed them a while ago (so my prices might be off), but it was $150 for a rebuilt MB axle (not a knockoff), plus $75 core deposit, plus they estimated shipping an axle is $20. So assuming you send your core, it will cost about $200 per axle. That is more than just a local rebooting would be, but you are getting more for your money. There are also cheap chinese axles out there for our cars which are about $200 per axle, but if you are ready to spend $200 per axle, a rebuilt from CVJ is better than a new, knockoff.
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My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).
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  #7  
Old 04-29-2013, 07:55 PM
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Thanks I'll take a look at CVJ. What I heard though is that some process they use
in rebuilding even OEM axels wrecks the heat treating of those axels. I wish I could
site the source but I read a lot and am quite unorganized. I book marked it on one of
my computers, but cannot readily find it. The jist was, if you haven't lost juice from
any of the boot cracks that it was WAY better to get a boot job, even on high mileage
axels that are working well. I'm collecting opinions now so yours is valuable.
In the past I just would have got the Flexx boots and gun. Some here had no problem.
After a while I'll decide and let everyone know.
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85 300TD FED-Daily
84 300SD-Wife's
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:11 PM
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Dorman and Astoria both sell their Tools to Garages so someone Business out there must be doing the Boot Replacements.
I would re-boot My Axles again if I need to. But, used one of the 2 types of Tools that were made for the Job; not a Automatic Transmission Funnel.

I had My on adventure and had more trouble with the Dorman Pneumatic Tool than the Simpler Cone Tool (was about $28) made for the Job. (Astoria Flexx Boots seem to be more popular but I used the Dorman ones.)



CV Boot Installation Problems with Dorman Pneumatic and Cone type Boot Installation
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317950-cv-boot-installation-problems-dorman-pneumatic-cone-type-boot-installation.html

See Pic. If your Axle near the Differential has Bolts going through it you have an Annular Axle and do not need to Stretch Boots over the Axle. The end with the Bolts comes apart and there is a Snap Ring inside you remove and the Axle comes out of it and you can easily remove and slide new Boots on.
Attached Thumbnails
Axel CV boots-annular-axle-differential-may-13.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 04-30-2013 at 12:58 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:57 PM
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One thing you could do is go to a pick and pull for a pair of usable axles. It isn't that hard to put new boots on with the proper funnel. Then the indie wouldn't be charging for all that time to re-boot. Just so he knows how to do a Mercedes.
I wish I could give you the list of posts to check, but my other laptop blew-up.
One other thing, I don't think anyone has SD replacement axles.
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  #10  
Old 04-30-2013, 12:40 AM
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I have no affiliation with CVJ whatsoever, but they actually discuss that they don't grind through the heat treatment. It is discussed on this page:
CVJ Axles - Remanufactured Axles & Power Racks

Yes, I think if you are sure that the insides are okay, getting remanufactured axles is overkill. Some suggest after rebooting that you switch the L and R axle to even out the wear.
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My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).
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  #11  
Old 04-30-2013, 01:02 AM
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I don't have the details but Dorman and Astori Both make the Cone type tool.
The one I used was made by Astro Pneumatic.

Tool Rental List
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=291660


DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:45 AM
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Shortsguy1 is correct, I had CVJ just reboot my original axles and I switched them left to right.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2013, 07:50 PM
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Checked area shops

Nobody does just boots. The last shop stated he bought OEM axels for 130 each. I didn't think they were available. He said likely not still German but gauarenteed OEM. 104 per hour to install, about 1.5 hours. Does that sound fair?
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2013, 07:53 PM
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It's likely I'll go CVJ. The indie told me that a lot of people FREAK at cracks. He told me if it's
not leaking fluid, just check it monthly and don't worry about it. Once you see fluid leaks, just replace the axels. Is that sound advice?
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2013, 08:45 PM
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Thumbs up

The real Astoria made Flexx tool works great. Use their boots, I have tried others and they are crap. I am pretty sure I used the 3001 model boots.

You could always buy the tool, install the boots, then sell it off for a minor loss OR put it in that tool rental program.

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