Note - diameter for the "punch" used to centre the shifter is 5.5mm - a 6mm might just fit too (but I didn't have one of those in a drill bit diameter!)

)))

That reminds me - this is related

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/373964-w201-w124-5-speed-shifter-refurbishment.html

First of all i must say impressive thread and job you have done here! I read in WIS apply sealent on surface rear cover, is that overkill when there is gasket thicker than original? Haynes says remove the bolt 67 reverse shaft locking bolt, i cant see that you did in the pictures?

Ok i open up this and if you only want to change gaskets, remove all bolts, there is a bolt on the side of gearbox under the middle gear lever you need to remove. Actually you dont need to remove anything else and yes its possible to remove end cover without removing bolts for the shifter(pull up cover little and move to the right upper part), O rings original are gold price++. The only thing you need to hit replacing is the fork, but this one you see from gap under the shifter arm rear. Loctite on the two bolts holding shifter rear if removed and 8nm, 28nm rear bolts, front cover is 20nm if you have cover with tube pressed on, if seperat tube 28nm, this is WIS info. Original gasket between the middle section and gearbox is approx 0,17mm check this if you buy from other supplyer, you dont want to change this gap. In front i recomend use of seal on the bolts head at the spacer, you dont want alle the sealer in the threads.

PM in your inbox.

Hi Everyone! I am glad that I found this post. I can't figure out where I can find a replacement Tapper Bearing for my MT. It says Timken 0059 Made in England but is hard to read and Timken catalog does not have this size... measures about 13.5ID, 38.1ODmm. Tried other Bearing website catalogs but also failed. Went to local MBZ dealer and they could not match it to the diagram (came up as Needle Bearing or as a much Larger Tapper Bearing that would not fit). Can someone please help me find the right replacement and/or MBZ part number for this?http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...-new-post.html

This member listed this number for the input shaft bearing - 00079814705.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3628136-post4.html


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How 717.412 different from 717.411

I have 1986 w124 250d that uses 717.411. I am experiencing vibrating or growling noise when I shift into third gear. The noise is only on 50-60kmh third gear, once I go beyond 60kmh the noise is no longer there.

I read on other forum that 711.411 has issue with third gear. However I am unable to get into the forum to ask further question as they think I am a spammer. But they are talking about third gear collapsing due to bearing.

They are the same with only a slight detail in the input shaft as a difference, or possibly the speedometer drive. They are the same at the core, but not interchangeable vehicle wise unless modifications are done. You could rebuild it, but you may be chasing your tail. Exhaust all other possibilities before considering that. A replacement is not hard to find so used may be more economical. That third gear vibration is elusive. It could be in the driveline.

I decided to jack the rear of the car and spin the wheel. I dont get vibration noise on 50-60kmh like what I experience on the road. Instead around 40kmh and it is confirmed coming from the transmission.

I was originally suspecting rear diff.

The thing is my w124 250D is the only diesel w124 in my country. I could get transmission from gas model (300E,320E,220/230) but not sure if it will fit. Would it most likely bearing issue in the gearbox?

Hello IVe got 190D with synchroniser issue on 1/2Gear... Anyone could help with dissasembly?

Just a note: the instructions for setting the bearing preload here are probably wrong. The instructions say to set them to 0.05mm clearance (play) but the WIS says preload. I don't have access to the WIS procedure right now to look up the correct procedure. Follow the WIS instructions.