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  #1  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:37 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Update

The reading material and adjustments information is in.

Thanks goes out to those who are helping me behind the scenes - I would name you but a good spy never reveals his sources of information! For reasons of privacy I'll not name you unless you want to be known - even though I'm getting my hands and my camera dirty I couldn't do this with out you - no man is an island, so thank you all very much.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:14 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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SNAKE OIL?

After cleaning the outer casing and starting on the inside I've discovered that three of the four tapered bearing cups that fit in the casing spin round...

...bugger...


...I can't leave them like that. The point of the bearing is that they spin on the taper bearings not on the cups in the casing. I'd rather not peen them in position so I'll probably have to dismantle and glue them in place...

...unless of course someone else has a bright idea.


So QUESTION =>

What would you do?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:52 AM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
After cleaning the outer casing and starting on the inside I've discovered that three of the four tapered bearing cups that fit in the casing spin round...

...bugger...


...I can't leave them like that. The point of the bearing is that they spin on the taper bearings not on the cups in the casing. I'd rather not peen them in position so I'll probably have to dismantle and glue them in place...

...unless of course someone else has a bright idea.


So QUESTION =>

What would you do?
I'm assuming they're "square" bearings? Or a tapered housing? Can I have a picture?

I would try to hold them in mechanically, with either a press fit or deforming something to hold them in place. I don't have much faith in adhesives holding while submerged in oil, heated, and constantly vibrated.
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  #4  
Old 07-16-2013, 01:24 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
I'm assuming they're "square" bearings? Or a tapered housing? Can I have a picture?

I would try to hold them in mechanically, with either a press fit or deforming something to hold them in place. I don't have much faith in adhesives holding while submerged in oil, heated, and constantly vibrated.
They are tapered roller bearing cups.

I don't really want to stake / peen them in place because the casing is a bit limp wristed...

...and as for vibration - that won't be a problem 'cos I'm a very good driver!!!!



Attached Thumbnails
717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-tapered-roller-bearing-loose1.jpg   717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-tapered-roller-bearing-loose2.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 07-16-2013, 06:57 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Well I removed the cups...

...and I have found that I've got one set of metric bearings on one shaft and one set of imperial (inch sizes) on the other...

Three of the bearing cups are FAG - the fourth is Timken (and of course with no product number on it)

Cup #1 (biggest)

FAG K14276

Outside Diameter :69.01 mm
Width :15.88 mm
Radius :1.17 mm


Cup#2

Timken (next biggest)




Cup #3

FAG 32006X onderdelenbalie.nl 10,70 ex btw

Inner diameter 30 mm
Outer diameter 55 mm
Thickness 17 mm


Cup #4

FAG AK1328


Can't find information for this one yet...


These bearing cups have most certainly been spinning in the casing because there's a bit of polishing.







Attached Thumbnails
717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-bearing-cups-out-polished-surface-casting.jpg   717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-bearing-cups-out2.jpg   717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-bearing-cups-out1.jpg   717.412 (5 speed manual gearbox) refresh-717_412-bearing-cups-out3.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2013, 07:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,338
Use Loctite "stud and bearing" fluid on the races. The "600" series stuff. It used to be green. Don't waste your time with the red or blue crap. They won't hold. You will need to use flame the next time you want to remove them. They WILL stay in place!
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Last edited by Mike D; 07-16-2013 at 07:20 PM.
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