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  #1  
Old 08-23-2013, 09:37 PM
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Location: Northwest Indiana
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coolant leak

is anyone familiar with the 1985 300d water pump. the question I have is, does it have more than one weep hole that will loose the coolant when the seal is gone and needs replacement. The reason I am asking is I noticed a drip coming from just left of the center of car directly under the front of the oil pan. I can see one weep hole in the water pump because it is facing up and it is not coming out of there totally dry. The coolant is dripping off the oil pan front lip. Any ideas I have checked by feeling hoses at the clamps and have not felt any there.

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  #2  
Old 08-23-2013, 10:41 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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The water pump for an 85 300D is the same as any other 617 water pump, it isn`t anything special. There are 2 weep holes. one on top, and one facing down. feel under the pump to see if it is wet.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2013, 02:12 AM
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Thank you, that is the answer I was looking for as the weep hole on top was dry as a bone and did not know if it had a second one.
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  #4  
Old 08-24-2013, 03:12 AM
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bottom weep hole

Charmalu, I never knew there was one on the bottom, I was always told to watch the one on the top.

I have a coolant leak too but in the middle of my A/c repair, while removing the condenser I found my radiator is actually a Nissens, it looks totally stock compared to our 83 300D but doesn't have the bear on top. My leak starts at the upper hose area, so I hammered down on all the aluminum lips that connect it to the upper plastic tank and that didn't fix anything.

It turns out, if I park facing uphill, I leak after driving, but if I park facing down hill, there's no leak. coolant will drip onto the lower oil cooler line and look like a much bigger problem but after cleaning the engine and letting it dry for a week I noticed its only the typical top seam issue.

I looked every where for a leak even after replacing the little return pipe on the passenger side and can only contribute the leak to the top of the radiator. I just ordered some hose clamps among other things so I can put two on the upper radiator hose connection and rule that out but I assume I'm approaching around 250k miles on a radiator which has a website printed on the sticker with the model number.

How old is a Nissens with a website on the sticker? 10 years?

My top weep hole is dry as a bone but I get the coolant smell in traffic occasionally. And with no fan guard and no distinguishable coolant spray, I still found coolant spray on the top oil cooler line after a full speed run.

I'll report back after installing both hose clamps on the upper hose at the radiator, since I think it could just be coming from the hose connection and pooling up on the top seam area.
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  #5  
Old 08-24-2013, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waste_Gate View Post
Charmalu, I never knew there was one on the bottom, I was always told to watch the one on the top.

I have a coolant leak too but in the middle of my A/c repair, while removing the condenser I found my radiator is actually a Nissens, it looks totally stock compared to our 83 300D but doesn't have the bear on top. My leak starts at the upper hose area, so I hammered down on all the aluminum lips that connect it to the upper plastic tank and that didn't fix anything.

It turns out, if I park facing uphill, I leak after driving, but if I park facing down hill, there's no leak. coolant will drip onto the lower oil cooler line and look like a much bigger problem but after cleaning the engine and letting it dry for a week I noticed its only the typical top seam issue.

I looked every where for a leak even after replacing the little return pipe on the passenger side and can only contribute the leak to the top of the radiator. I just ordered some hose clamps among other things so I can put two on the upper radiator hose connection and rule that out but I assume I'm approaching around 250k miles on a radiator which has a website printed on the sticker with the model number.

How old is a Nissens with a website on the sticker? 10 years?

My top weep hole is dry as a bone but I get the coolant smell in traffic occasionally. And with no fan guard and no distinguishable coolant spray, I still found coolant spray on the top oil cooler line after a full speed run.

I'll report back after installing both hose clamps on the upper hose at the radiator, since I think it could just be coming from the hose connection and pooling up on the top seam area.
After seeing the post from Charmalu went and slid under the vehicle and could not see or reach up under the H2o pump. so I will put it on jack stands tomorrow and check for a leak at the weep hole under the H20 pump.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2013, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
The water pump for an 85 300D is the same as any other 617 water pump, it isn`t anything special. There are 2 weep holes. one on top, and one facing down. feel under the pump to see if it is wet.


Charlie
What is the course of action if the bottom weep hole is wet & appears to be the source of coolant leak?

Replace the water pump?
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2013, 10:31 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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With coolant leaking out the bottom weep hole, it is an indication the shaft seal is going on the pump. sounds like it is time to swap in a new one.

Here is what Pelican shows, I looked up 85 300D. part# 110-200-17-20

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan - Water Pump, Thermostat & Hoses - Page 1


Be sure to replace the gasket.

I looked at a new one I have in the shop, and there are 2 weep holes, top and bottom. be careful removing the 4 small bolts holding the Fan Clutch to the Pump. they are 10mm and a bear to get to, and you don`t want to round them off. then the fun of getting them back in.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2013, 10:44 AM
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Some one over on another Forum had all of the Bolts that held the Water Pump on sheer off.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:51 AM
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I found an easy way to get to the fan clutch bolts. It actually came from the Haynes Manual.

Take a 10 mm box wrench and grind off part of the closed end to make it a thin wall. That way you get the bolt completely surrounded. I did round one off using the open 10mm. After I did the grinding of the wrench trick, the other 3 came out nice and easy.
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:12 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Some one over on another Forum had all of the Bolts that held the Water Pump on sheer off.

That happens when you over rev the engine, you know, all that massive torque from these high power Diesels. It sheers those bolts right off.



Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2013, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I found an easy way to get to the fan clutch bolts. It actually came from the Haynes Manual.
What's the trick?
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2013, 09:41 AM
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Take this as an opportunity to flush ehe coolant, replace hoses etc. Removing the radiator is very easy. Only a couple of clips hold it in. Order new grommets that insulate the radiator from the body. Leave the oil cooler installeded unless changing hoses.

Radiator out means easy to access crank bolt to turn engine and adjust valves.

Also, hoses going inside the cabin are likely neglected. Battery and removable center panel come out. Check for rust, POR the battery tray, clean leaves etc.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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