Sanden converts: What say you? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

RavenTBK · #1 08-01-2014, 09:59 AM

I've had the ROLLGUY conversion completed on my car for a couple weeks now. I've had a couple of hiccups, like the new belt stretching a lot more than others have in the past, but mostly positive. I do have a couple observations/questions/concerns that I am hoping those of you that have or have done the conversion might be able to answer.

My setup: Full ROLLGUY kit, 7cyl comp, new plumbing, new dryer, generic 16x20 PF condenser, 134a charged.

1. As I mentioned above, it seems like my belt has stretched far more than those in the past. I've had to re-snug it 6 times so far. However, after this most recent time (and it needs it again btw..damn cheap belt), I noticed a growling/knocking sound coming from underhood whenever I turn right. I know this is AC related, as it moves with the throttle positiion, and I can turn the AC off and the noise immediately stops. Its almost as if a bolt somewhere is loose, and the compressor is vibrating and the noise is reverberating through the car. I've checked hardware, and its good, unless there is some hidden bolt I cannot see thats loose. I have no idea as to what would be the cause of the noise as it only happens during a right turn when applying throttle. Its annoying, and I cant find the source. Anybody have any insight on what it might be?

2. I've found that at idle, inside the garage, I can get 50*F vent temps, no cooler than that. In traffic, the best I can get is 60*F. At highway speed, it seems to die off...70-80*F vent temps. What the heck could cause this? I would be inclined to think the system would be come more efficient with the greater airflow through the condenser over the aux fan.

I did have one more, but for whatever reason, I cannot recall now that I have typed up the above. I guess I'll remember it later. Any thoughts?

pedrocamp · #2 08-01-2014, 12:46 PM

I installed Rollguy's kit in my 85 TD and have used for about 6 weeks with good results so far. I had to adjust the belt once after initial stretch on run in. I am running r12 with the stock condenser. I adjusted the ETR to switch to about 39*. I see about 40-42* out of the center vent with fan on LOW, wheel on MIN down the highway. Somewhere around 50* on a 90*+ day in traffic. I am happy with that. So far the bracket and compressor seem happy too.

Not sure about your noise, almost sounds like the engine is shifting during a right turn and the spinning clutch front face is hitting something. Make sure you don't have a line or hose close to the compressor. Look for signs of interference.

Is the system sufficiently charged?

engatwork · #3 08-01-2014, 02:22 PM

Kit, r134 expansion valve, generic 16 x 20 condenser and hose mods. Took 2#, 2 ounces to make it work good on r134. I added a little extra hose to the system.

resto108 · #4 08-01-2014, 03:45 PM

I've been running mine on 134 with the original condenser (W126 and 7 cylinder) for maybe a month. The belt has been tightened about three or four times now. I get to around 58 degrees, no matter the outside temp. It feels colder than that, and the compressor cycles, so I think I'm going to check my thermometer. I think I have too much 134. I put right at 36oz in. Something to play with over the summer.
Anyway, I have a "harmonic" now that was never there before, with the AC on or off. Probably wouldn't notice it if I didn't know it wasn't there before. Doesn't have anything to do with steering, though. It really needs a 1/2" belt to match the crank pulley, and I wonder if my harmonic isn't caused by the 3/8" belt riding down in the crank pulley. I'm looking for a 1/2" pulley compressor clutch in my spare time.

eatont9999 · #5 08-01-2014, 04:30 PM

I have been running the kit since the mid to late spring. You need to check the bolts and brackets every so often. I had the long bolt break off at the nut and at the same or similar time, the lower support bracket snapped.

The conversion works pretty well. My SD will freeze you out if it is below 90F ambient. I'm actually looking for a working monovalve because it gets too cold without mixing in some heat.

7 cylinder sanden
2nd gen condenser and fan
R12 with mineral oil
evap cleaned as best as possible.

TheDon · #6 08-01-2014, 08:51 PM

I need to check the belt on my car but it's cooling decently in the FL heat with a stock condenser. Going with a PF this winter.

RavenTBK · #7 08-04-2014, 08:54 AM

Due to my amazingly tight schedule, I've of course been having to continue to drive...occasionally getting out to check and make sure nothing is obviously wrong.

Sunday, the rattle seemed to be more pronounced, and making its noise at idle, and not in a turn anymore. In my good clothes, I knelt down and stuck my head up under the bumper to see the compressor making loads more movement than the engine. Got home, changed, and laid up underneath. Turned out I can move the compressor by hand, in a "twisting" motion, perpendicular to the mounts.

A bit more fingering with the flashlight and I found a bolt completely missing. The pic stolen from the sales/install thread shows which one. So, as I had a shop install the bracketry and such, I have no earthly idea how I can get up in there to install another bolt.

Anybody have un-install instructions or some tips to where I can easily get to that top bolt without being an uber-pain?

I have thoughts of replacing the standard nut with a nylock to keep it from working its way loose again. Not sure what temps are experienced in that area of the block as to if it'd hold up.

cfh · #8 08-04-2014, 09:33 AM

On mine ('80 coupe) I found the nut and bolt circled on post 7 above very loose a few weeks ago - and in fact the corner ear of the compressor had broken off. I figure I must have accidentally left the nut loose during original installation. I had also misplaced part of the tightening/ adjustment hardware (drinking and my ADHD don't go together very well when doing a project like this!). I cannot imagine that the supplied nut could have worked its way loose -it was one of those self-locking nuts kind of like a nylock but with staked metal instead of nylon; takes a lot of strength to tighten.

I ended up using one long bolt with a spacer tube in the middle to mount the compressor to the bracket - instead of the two short bolts - and torqued it down good with a big washer on the outside of where the broken-off ear has leftt more of a saddle than a nounting hole. It's been working fine that way for a couple of weeks now but I don't trust it for the long haul with a broken ear. One of these days I plan to evacuate the system and rotate the compressor 90 degrees to get off of that broken-off ear mounting point; my recovery machine is down now though - says it needs a new filter.

Cooling is very good even in hot weather but not quite freezing like Eaton describes his. I also plan to upgrade to a parallel flow condenser and a upgrade the aux fan to a w126 fan.

TheDon · #9 08-04-2014, 10:17 AM

I need to verify my
Mounting hardware is sti tight. Those metal stakes nuts were a bear to install. I has no bullocks anywhere.

I installed the top bolts for the compressor in the car. It was cake.they just slip into place. However, I think the top right bolt required me to remove the bolt for the mounting bracket to the block or maybe I put the bolt in place then mounted the bracket. It's been a while

JamesDean · #10 08-04-2014, 11:41 AM

I would think that you should consider using split-washers or lock washers on some of those those bolts rather than just a regular flat washer.

Also don't stack a split washer on top of a flat washer.

vstech · #11 08-04-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RavenTBK

Due to my amazingly tight schedule, I've of course been having to continue to drive...occasionally getting out to check and make sure nothing is obviously wrong.

Sunday, the rattle seemed to be more pronounced, and making its noise at idle, and not in a turn anymore. In my good clothes, I knelt down and stuck my head up under the bumper to see the compressor making loads more movement than the engine. Got home, changed, and laid up underneath. Turned out I can move the compressor by hand, in a "twisting" motion, perpendicular to the mounts.

A bit more fingering with the flashlight and I found a bolt completely missing. The pic stolen from the sales/install thread shows which one. So, as I had a shop install the bracketry and such, I have no earthly idea how I can get up in there to install another bolt.

Anybody have un-install instructions or some tips to where I can easily get to that top bolt without being an uber-pain?

I have thoughts of replacing the standard nut with a nylock to keep it from working its way loose again. Not sure what temps are experienced in that area of the block as to if it'd hold up.

the nuts in that pic are locking nuts... did that not come like that on yours?

JamesDean · #12 08-04-2014, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the nuts in that pic are locking nuts... did that not come like that on yours?

Aye, nylon locking nuts. I did not loose closely enough.

ROLLGUY · #13 08-04-2014, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfh

On mine ('80 coupe) I found the nut and bolt circled on post 7 above very loose a few weeks ago - and in fact the corner ear of the compressor had broken off. I figure I must have accidentally left the nut loose during original installation. I had also misplaced part of the tightening/ adjustment hardware (drinking and my ADHD don't go together very well when doing a project like this!). I cannot imagine that the supplied nut could have worked its way loose -it was one of those self-locking nuts kind of like a nylock but with staked metal instead of nylon; takes a lot of strength to tighten.

The first batch of kits came with hex bolts and nylon lock nuts, and I had several come loose. I changed to socket head cap screws and "C"lock nuts (distorted all metal). I can't imagine these coming loose if they were tightened properly in the first place. It is a little difficult to tighten the mounting bolts after the compressor is mounted on the plate and in the car, so I now suggest mount the compressor on the bracket and then install the compressor/plate as a unit. It seems to be easier that way. Others have said something about inserting the plate mounting bolt closest to the compressor before bolting up the compressor, and I strongly recommend it. It is impossible to get that one bolt in after the compressor bolt is installed. I also supply a lock washer for the long bolt, but in some installations the bolt is not long enough for the lock nut to get a good bite on the bolt. If that is the case, just delete the lock washer and just use the lock nut. There should be about one thread showing after being tightened.....Rich

funola · #14 08-04-2014, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

....................It is impossible to get that one bolt in after the compressor bolt is installed. I also supply a lock washer for the long bolt, but in some installations the bolt is not long enough for the lock nut to get a good bite on the bolt. If that is the case, just delete the lock washer and just use the lock nut. There should be about one thread showing after being tightened.....Rich

One thread showing above the nut is not enough. At minimum, you want height of the nut + 2 threads.