any tips for oil filter housing gasket? (84 300SD) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #16 09-19-2014, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

MB design is probably best, but I have had no problems with the Victor Reinz version on 6 installs... And I install them dry with no sealant. Of course I say this now, and then I'll have an issue.

No one has posted a problem with Victor Reinz Oil Filter Housing Gaskets.
The original Gasket is just Paper and not very thick at that. It might be that simply using some Paper Gasket Material that is much thicker would also work.

However, the Mercedes Gasket is more likely to deal with any sort of warpage.
When I bought the Mercedes Gasket it was about 2-3 Dollars more then the Voctor Reinz Gasket.

Diesel911 · #17 09-19-2014, 10:55 PM

Just to aggravate the install dry Folks.

That is not My Picture and those are not My Hands. Apparently that Guy likes the Old School type Prmantex type Gasket Sealant.

Junkman · #18 09-20-2014, 09:05 AM

I found a waffled gasket that came in an Elring kit. The original was installed dry. I haven't made the final decision but don't see how I could get it installed with sealer without movithe steering box.

I've almost never had tie rods come off with the boots intact. Perhaps only the pitman arm needs to come off. I'll get to look today.

vstech · #19 09-20-2014, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

I found a waffled gasket that came in an Elring kit. The original was installed dry. I haven't made the final decision but don't see how I could get it installed with sealer without movithe steering box.

I've almost never had tie rods come off with the boots intact. Perhaps only the pitman arm needs to come off. I'll get to look today.

Tie rods always come off intact if you use the poppers for them, not pickle fork...

Junkman · #20 09-20-2014, 04:28 PM

I was able to get it installed by raising the engine. I disconnected the left motor mount and basically went by the FSM. I did use a (very) little black RTV. Hopefully, it won't leak. Given time constraints this MAY have been worth handing off to the indy. It's time consuming figuring out the details for a 1 time event.

edit: The details are to move the oil cooler lines out of the way to the left and tie them there. I used plastic ties. Bungee cords or even wire or string would work. You have to release both brackets that hold them in place. It is a good idea to release the brackets before loosening the connections at the oil housing. I almost screwed up because the hard cooler line was twisting (damage) while loosening the connector. Removing the brackets would allow the twist to be absorbed by the rubber part of the line. PB Blaster helps. Raising the engine 1st gives more access to the nuts.

Also, move all vacuum lines and the electrical to the oil pressure sender out of the way. You need as much room as possible. Be sure they can be accessed and reconnected. You don't want something blocked in and inaccessible. I did a trial fit to figure out how it went together. Next I applied the sealer, inserted all bolts into the housing and lowered it. Begin with the top bolt, then the center then the bottom 2 and finally the last 2 bolts. Now go back and snug everything.

Connect the oil cooler lines then drop the engine back down before installing the turbo oil line. Everything needs to be clear before you lower the engine. You don't want to break anything.

I did find my water pump leaking so that's next. Anyone have experience with Graf brand?

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Base Sedan - Water Pump, Thermostat & Hoses - Page 1

Diesel911 · #21 09-20-2014, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

I was able to get it installed by raising the engine. I disconnected the left motor mount and basically went by the FSM. I did use a (very) little black RTV. Hopefully, it won't leak. Given time constraints this MAY have been worth handing off to the indy. It's time consuming figuring out the details for a 1 time event.

I did find my water pump leaking so that's next. Anyone have experience with Graf brand?

1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Base Sedan - Water Pump, Thermostat & Hoses - Page 1

Rasing the Engine was an excellent Idea.

Do a search for Graf in the Forum and something should come up.

Junkman · #22 09-21-2014, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I guess I get to play the Bad Guy again. I coated one side of the Waffle type (from the Dealer) Block to Oil Filter Housing Gasket with Copper Kote or Gasgchinch (can't remember which both are a type of Rubber Cement but the Copper Kote has Copper Particles in it) and suck it to the Oil Filter Housing.

The Copper Kote that shows up on Professor Google's radar is thread anti-seize.

vstech · #23 09-21-2014, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

The Copper Kote that shows up on Professor Google's radar is thread anti-seize.

Try copper coat gasket compound...
copper gasket coat k&w makes both a spray on, and a brush on...

Diesel911 · #24 09-21-2014, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

The Copper Kote that shows up on Professor Google's radar is thread anti-seize.

It is just Me screwing up the spelling on another Word.

The Can Lable has Copper Coat and K&W (I thought it was made by Prmatex).

The liquid in a Can with a Dauber is somewhat thick. If you buy the Spray it goes thin if you shake the can up enough. This one is available at most Autopart Chain Stores.

The spray is nice but if you can't clean the Nozzle out it can plug and you will not get to use the rest that is left.

The other product I mentioned is harder to find and I don't think Chain stores sell it is called Gasgachinch. In consistency it is like a thin Rubber Cement.

What is interesting about it is that you can take a Paper Gasket and sort of rubberize it. You apply a coat and let it soak in and dry completely and do that as many times as you feel the need to. The stuff absorbs in to the dried Paper of the Gasket Material to some extent and keeps it from shrinking later.

When you take it apart later a Gasket glued on with Gasgachinch will remove easier than with the Copper Coat. I find Copper Coat with the Dauber to be messy to use and Glover like to stick to it.
Both can be used to glue a Gasket on.

vstech · #25 09-21-2014, 10:41 PM

Orileys has edelbrock gaskacinch...

List: Search for 'gasgacinch' | O'Reilly Auto Parts

dkr · #26 09-29-2014, 05:33 PM

I just finished this job and have a few pointers:

- A stubby 19mm wratcheting wrench would be really great to pull the turbo return line banjo. In fact, I ordered one just after completing the job as I recall thinking the same thing about a hard to reach bolt on the differential.

- I was able to get to the front allen bolt by kneeling on the front bumper over the engine which means I didn't need to life the engine.

- Kent from ************** recommends using zip ties to attach the bottom two holes on the gasket and then tightening bolts from the top and then cutting the zip ties once the gasket is aligned. I did that and it worked. I did not use any gasket sealer.

- I had some trouble with connecting the bottom oil cooler line. I fixed it by loosening the tensioner several times (10mm bolt I believe with two extensions) and that gave me the vertical play I needed in order to connect the bottom oil cooler line.

Dkr.

Junkman · #27 09-29-2014, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkr

I just finished this job and have a few pointers:

- A stubby 19mm wratcheting wrench would be really great to pull the turbo return line banjo. In fact, I ordered one just after completing the job as I recall thinking the same thing about a hard to reach bolt on the differential.

- I was able to get to the front allen bolt by kneeling on the front bumper over the engine which means I didn't need to life the engine.

- Kent from ************** recommends using zip ties to attach the bottom two holes on the gasket and then tightening bolts from the top and then cutting the zip ties once the gasket is aligned. I did that and it worked. I did not use any gasket sealer.

- I had some trouble with connecting the bottom oil cooler line. I fixed it by loosening the tensioner several times (10mm bolt I believe with two extensions) and that gave me the vertical play I needed in order to connect the bottom oil cooler line.

Dkr.

A 3/8 flex head ratchet works for getting the turbo line off. I bought one from Sears and it is my favorite ratchet ever.

My engine needed to be lifted perhaps because the motor mounts which are relatively new are collapsed.

Diesel911 · #28 09-29-2014, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkr

I just finished this job and have a few pointers:

- A stubby 19mm wratcheting wrench would be really great to pull the turbo return line banjo. In fact, I ordered one just after completing the job as I recall thinking the same thing about a hard to reach bolt on the differential.

- I was able to get to the front allen bolt by kneeling on the front bumper over the engine which means I didn't need to life the engine.

- Kent from ************** recommends using zip ties to attach the bottom two holes on the gasket and then tightening bolts from the top and then cutting the zip ties once the gasket is aligned. I did that and it worked. I did not use any gasket sealer.

- I had some trouble with connecting the bottom oil cooler line. I fixed it by loosening the tensioner several times (10mm bolt I believe with two extensions) and that gave me the vertical play I needed in order to connect the bottom oil cooler line.

Dkr.

The Old School Way (back as far as My Dads 1947 Trade School Manuals) is to use String or even Thread to hold a Gasket on.

Either is easier to cut then a Zip Ties but if you for get to cut the String/Thread it can be the cause of a leak.