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#1
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Quote:
J.G. |
#2
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Quote:
Quote:
The wings fit inside the housing and help with a pivoting sliding motion for the lever as you slide the shifter from the left to right
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Assembly (1)
Starting with the shifter lever
Fitting the new bushings to the alloy shifter assembly I used a washer on either side to make sure the new parts weren't damaged and just started the pressing in process with a set of pliers I did this on both sides Then I found some open ended spanners to use as a temporary block in the opening between the two bushings The spanners were quite tight in there for the next stage Pressing in with my hydraulic press (total over kill - a decent vice would do just as well) Note I'm pressing into wood as well (top and bottom) There we go Bob's my uncle.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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Assembly (2) Grease time!
My chosen grease is this one
I don't expect it is easy to find the same brand outside of the Benelux countries so find yourself some good quality black MoS2. I'm pretty sure that's what has been used originally. Manny (see post above) says his wheel bearing grease works too - but that anti-seize tended to bung stuff up. (see post #15 below as well) Note the orientation of the bend in the shifter rod that attaches to the gear lever handle. (Not massively important at this stage as you can still rotate it if absolutely necessary - but it is good to get your head used to it) You have to grease this steel rod before fitting it to the alloy housing - with my MoS2 lots of excess just got pushed out. Wipe off. With spring in place you need to push down the spring and insert the clip. I found bent needle nosed pliers were good for this. A combination of finger and flat screw driver blade also helped with the spring! Picture above shows clip going on - just push home with flat screwdriver blade
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 12-10-2015 at 04:16 AM. Reason: Got it a bit wrong |
#5
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Assembly (3) more grease
Dreadful picture below shows approximately how much and where I applied grease on the alloy part before I fitted it to the new plastic housing.
(I hate Canon point and shoot cameras when they have to have the flash on) As this solution (solution 2 see above) might not work I may get a second chance to get a better picture! So anyway - install the pin again That's all for now folks. Must cook decent lamb curry for dinner tonight. I might be back with this tomorrow.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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