Hello everyone,

I have a 1982 300D that the rear left door window will only travel in one direction. I have read MANY other posts about similar issues, but have not found one exactly like this. Here’s the rundown of what I have done so far to troubleshoot.
I removed the regulator and motor. I tested the motor to direct 12v it runs smoothly in both directions when the wires are swapped. The motor and regulator are currently not in the door, but I can watch the motor turn in both directions.
When attached, the window motor switch will only work when the “down” is pressed. I removed, dismantled, and cleaned the door switch. I have also swapped out another witch that I know is working in both directions from the right rear door. The effect is the same.
If I manually swap the green and black wires leading from the the switch to the motor, the motor will crank in the opposite direction, but still only when the “down” button is pressed.
I removed and cleaned the console switch. I also swapped out the console switch with another switch and the effect is the same.
All fuses have been recently replaced.

Now i’m stumped. What else could cause this effect?

If it were me.....

I'd check to see if I had continuity in the wires leading from the console to the rear door switch....

Jim

__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

OK, I got this one [SOLVED].
While I am still not entirely sure on the full procedure testing continuity, I was using my multimeter to at least discover what had power going to it. In the course of doing this, I must have tightened a switch that was loose in the center console and now the whole thing works!

I always look at a working door to see how electricity is supposed to flow. The wiring doesn't go bad very often which means the problem is in the switch or motor usually.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I had one window only go down last week and cleaning the Switch cured it. By cleaning I mean I scraped off the balck burnt part to bare metal on the contacts with a pocket knife blade.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Re diagnosis, measure w/ DMM between the 2 motor wires. There is a convenient terminal block inside the door which makes access easy, plus your door card is already off. If you measure <8 V while trying to actuate the "UP" motion, search for the voltage drop. If your front right window shows the same issue, the drop is likely in the fuse contacts.

If using silver fuses instead of gold, this is common. Ditto for sun-roof and other loads. Remove the fuse, sand the ends of both fuse and holder, coat w/ silicone grease and re-install. That fixed many of my similar problems. Someday, I'll have all gold fuses.

As mentioned, could also be a broken wire in the door feed-thru. The window switches can be taken apart fairly simply and sanded of corrosion, but don't fool w/ that until you verify a problem with your DMM. In you don't own a DMM, a trip to HF w/ their coupon will yield a freebie.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

On mine the Terminal Block is only on the Front Doors. On the lower bottom.

I had the screws become loose on left terminal block and the window did not function porperly.

The Fues with the ended corroded or burned off look OK till I pulled it out and saw the tip of it and the bracket. 2 Windows diagionally had stopped working.

On mine there is an 8 amp fuse that connects to the Power Window Relay and some other accessories. On mine it is the #12 Fuse and when that is no good none of your Power Winidows work.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel