The hose in the first pic is the vacuum line? Can I connect it to the brake booster? To shur the engine off do i need to apply vacuum to the little line on the back of the injection pump in second pic?

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Yes, seperate the stock MB line after the fitting with the nipple on it. Then make something to run intermediate from the end of the fitting to the stock Ranger vacuum booster. Use the nipple that remains on the MB side to use as a source to kill the engine.

The second picture looks like it, but hard to tell without seeing where it connects to the IP. Does the engine run yet? If so, suck on the hose and see what happens, engine should bog down/shut down without much effort.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

That's what I will be doing once the parts arrive. I originally didn't want to do that for fear of not being able to get all the metal chips back out of the oil cooler but I guess I'll try.

$50 for two hydraulic lines?! That's a good deal! Parts alone costs more then that. The shop I went to didn't have fittings that would fit on the oil cooler so they would have had to weld on regular 1/2" hydraulic fittings onto the hard lines which would have cost me as much as it will to make nice shiny lines as described in the above link.
Got it thanks

Still waiting on the last adapter pieces so in working on gauges. I think I got the main electrical working again in my truck and now I've got to wire the backlighting of the gauges in and try and figure out how to install the sensor for the tach. I've got the dash all torn apart but I'm not sure how to connect to the tach.

Hooked up the throttle cable but I want a stiffer return spring on it. I also got some mandrel 3" exhaust because why not.

I can't find the turbo oil down tube. Any idea where to buy one? I remember one of you had a much better set up for it with threaded fittings but I can't find that post.

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I can't notch the oil pan because the oil pump is in the exact spot it needs to be notched. Nothing will hit unless i really hit a bump hard so I'll just lift the truck later.

I made a new oil return line for the turbo out of the extra -10 braided hose I got for the oil cooler.

Got the new flywheel adapter bolted on, installed the flywheel and clutch, and then found a problem. The starter was partially engaged! Checked the thickness of the spacer and found it was way to thick! It's only supposed to be .500 and it's .641. Yarde cut it from scrap and so they sent two plates for the price of one and so I think what happened is that they just cut a scrap that a 1/2" plate could be mild from instead of actually cutting it from 1/2" stock. Not really that big a deal but it's annoying because I wanted the engine in my truck while I'm gone for the next couple weeks

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