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  #1  
Old 08-12-2016, 03:02 PM
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New to me 300D

I recently bought an 85 CA 300D. Transmission went out shortly after I got it and put a 4 speed manual from a euro 240 in it. The manual is a lot of fun but I'm now looking for performance or even stock horsepower ratings... I feel as though it is really slow for various reasons. I know it needs a valve adjustment and I just cleaned the banjo bolt and lines and previously removed the ALDA (call me ignorant) with very little increase in performance. I replaced the small inline fuel filter and cleaned the screw on with sea foam and saw black stuff come out from it so I'm working on getting another one but I know there has to be more wrong with it. It will smoke when just started if its cold but always starts right up. I think there are vacuum line issues but I haven't seen a clean 300D under the hood to know exactly where everything is supposed to go. I took pictures of some very sketchy things hoping I would get advice on what goes where. Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 08-12-2016, 03:16 PM
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Congrats...I just acquired two 85 300D sedans. Wow...whoopee for me !

...anyway, check the fuel tank outlet. Unscrew and make sure it's clear. Might need to replace the sealing O ring. Tank to steel line ? Clear?

Check fuel supply and bleed off from I/P ( Between I/P and engine.).

Disconnect boost limiter on manifold....single black wire. Bridge boost solenoid hoses next to brake booster......oh oh..Microwave just dinged...time for lunch.

later....



.
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2016, 04:05 PM
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Well Dr. Diesel, that 4 speed will help a bit in acceleration, but 135hp, (a little more maybe), but remember, if you can get it to do zero to sixty in 15 seconds, you have about all there is. It never will be like greased lightening!
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #4  
Old 08-12-2016, 06:11 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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If I were you, I would see if your 1985 had the trap oxidizer replaced under the recall if you don't already know. Nobody knows how the vacuum is "supposed to" go as they have all been extensively modified through repairs, so I'm not sure a photo would help. If you haven't already done a diesel purge, I would recommend that as well as replacing your large fuel filter and the air filter.

It would help to get more info on the symptoms...

Dkr.
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  #5  
Old 08-12-2016, 06:40 PM
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Most of the parts w/ disconnected hoses or connectors you show are part of the EGR system. It was a klutsy system, so may not even work right if you reconnect. I removed all those parts, including the EGR valve (used Rollguy's ~$15 block-off plates). You can find a schematic here that shows what parts are EGR, over half of the vacuum stuff.

What you do need is the "blue saucer" hooked up correctly (1st photo). The "TRA" port goes to your transmission modulator (driver's side, near shifter input). The blue saucer is a "buffer amplifier" that makes the shifting better. Indeed, I put one in my 1984 300D. It also gets input from intake manifold pressure (via "switch-over" switch on firewall), which I recall delays shifting under higher boost. All improvements. The main transmission signal is from the VCV mounted on top of the IP. It leaks vacuum to atm (black tube w/ filter open on cabin side), as the "throttle" is rotated, intent being to simulate intake manifold pressure in a gas engine. You can read detailed writeups in a search.

Your 1985 CA is different in several ways from earlier engines. Your tach signal comes off the transmission bell-housing (ignore "diagnostic" pickup on front of engine) and goes thru the EGR control box (so don't rip it out), as I recall does your AC clutch drive. Your IP has a "rack position sensor" that goes there too (also 1984). Your intake, exhaust, & turbo are different, w/ corresponding changes to starter and alternator (heat shields, clocking). If the original "trap oxidizer" wasn't replaced, I read you can still get the cat converter type replacement free from a dealer. Do so, or it can ruin the engine (reason for recall). Best to keep your frame-mounted air cleaner. Indeed, I put one in my 1984. I used silicone "turbo" 90 deg duct and cut the cleaner outlet shorter. The correct air filter is ~$45, but you can stack two $5 Wix filters instead. I posted the PN (for Toyota MR2 1978? or whatever I said).

Can't tell you about performance mod's, but there is a forum for that. Your transmission is also different (.4xx instead of .3xx earlier). It has slightly taller final gears (or maybe that is in the rear-end), which is the right direction for me but not for hot rodders.
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2016, 08:22 PM
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I thought this car had been converted to a 4-speed manual transmission.
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2016, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkveuro View Post
Congrats...I just acquired two 85 300D sedans. Wow...whoopee for me !

...anyway, check the fuel tank outlet. Unscrew and make sure it's clear. Might need to replace the sealing O ring. Tank to steel line ? Clear?

Check fuel supply and bleed off from I/P ( Between I/P and engine.).

Disconnect boost limiter on manifold....single black wire. Bridge boost solenoid hoses next to brake booster......oh oh..Microwave just dinged...time for lunch.

later....



.
I didn't understand most of this but appreciate the reply. If I bridge the boost solenoid hoses what will happen? Will disconnecting the boost limiter be dangerous in cases of overboost?
Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
Well Dr. Diesel, that 4 speed will help a bit in acceleration, but 135hp, (a little more maybe), but remember, if you can get it to do zero to sixty in 15 seconds, you have about all there is. It never will be like greased lightening!
I completely understand, its no race car, but I can't even get my 0-60 under 20 seconds. It seems as though there is no gain in performance throughout all RPM ranges of more than 50% throttle. All my power comes from the first 50% of putting the pedal to the floor in other words.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
If I were you, I would see if your 1985 had the trap oxidizer replaced under the recall if you don't already know. Nobody knows how the vacuum is "supposed to" go as they have all been extensively modified through repairs, so I'm not sure a photo would help. If you haven't already done a diesel purge, I would recommend that as well as replacing your large fuel filter and the air filter.

It would help to get more info on the symptoms...

Dkr.
I'm going to just assume that it has been replaced because its had several committed owners and is above 250K miles probably. I'm having trouble finding a CA edition air filter...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Most of the parts w/ disconnected hoses or connectors you show are part of the EGR system. It was a klutsy system, so may not even work right if you reconnect. I removed all those parts, including the EGR valve (used Rollguy's ~$15 block-off plates). You can find a schematic here that shows what parts are EGR, over half of the vacuum stuff.

What you do need is the "blue saucer" hooked up correctly (1st photo). The "TRA" port goes to your transmission modulator (driver's side, near shifter input). The blue saucer is a "buffer amplifier" that makes the shifting better. Indeed, I put one in my 1984 300D. It also gets input from intake manifold pressure (via "switch-over" switch on firewall), which I recall delays shifting under higher boost. All improvements. The main transmission signal is from the VCV mounted on top of the IP. It leaks vacuum to atm (black tube w/ filter open on cabin side), as the "throttle" is rotated, intent being to simulate intake manifold pressure in a gas engine. You can read detailed writeups in a search.

Your 1985 CA is different in several ways from earlier engines. Your tach signal comes off the transmission bell-housing (ignore "diagnostic" pickup on front of engine) and goes thru the EGR control box (so don't rip it out), as I recall does your AC clutch drive. Your IP has a "rack position sensor" that goes there too (also 1984). Your intake, exhaust, & turbo are different, w/ corresponding changes to starter and alternator (heat shields, clocking). If the original "trap oxidizer" wasn't replaced, I read you can still get the cat converter type replacement free from a dealer. Do so, or it can ruin the engine (reason for recall). Best to keep your frame-mounted air cleaner. Indeed, I put one in my 1984. I used silicone "turbo" 90 deg duct and cut the cleaner outlet shorter. The correct air filter is ~$45, but you can stack two $5 Wix filters instead. I posted the PN (for Toyota MR2 1978? or whatever I said).

Can't tell you about performance mod's, but there is a forum for that. Your transmission is also different (.4xx instead of .3xx earlier). It has slightly taller final gears (or maybe that is in the rear-end), which is the right direction for me but not for hot rodders.
That is good to hear that it was mostly what I was hoping is that it was EGR related items. I guess my "blue saucer" is not relevant because I've got a 4 speed manual. So I guess I will never have a tach again because the pick up goes into the old automatic transmission? What all were you saying about the AC Clutch Drive? I don't have power at the AC Clutch if that makes a difference... I'd like to fix that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhitmore View Post
I thought this car had been converted to a 4-speed manual transmission.
You're correct
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  #8  
Old 08-13-2016, 03:43 AM
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The pick up signal for the tack has nothing to do with the auto trans.
The sensor fits into a hole on the Adaptor Plate that is bolted to the engine.
The trans bolts to it.

The sensor picks up the signal off the Fly Wheel wheather manual or auto trans FW.

I swapped the auto trans in the 85 300D to a 4-spd manual several years ago.
Tach still works.
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #9  
Old 08-13-2016, 04:00 PM
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the 50% throttle remark makes me think there is a restriction in fuel delivery, maybe a clogged strainer putting a ceiling on how fast fuel can be injected. do engine RPMs max out at a low ceiling too?
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  #10  
Old 08-13-2016, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bricktron View Post
the 50% throttle remark makes me think there is a restriction in fuel delivery, maybe a clogged strainer putting a ceiling on how fast fuel can be injected. do engine RPMs max out at a low ceiling too?
I could definitely see that there would be an issue with fuel delivery but I don't know where to look. RPM's don't max out but it does take a while to get up there... I wonder if the fuel filter would help very much with this issue. What is this clogged strainer you're talking about? Is there something before the first inline filter that I don't know about? Strainer on the fuel pump?
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  #11  
Old 08-13-2016, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Turbo View Post
I could definitely see that there would be an issue with fuel delivery but I don't know where to look. RPM's don't max out but it does take a while to get up there... I wonder if the fuel filter would help very much with this issue. What is this clogged strainer you're talking about? Is there something before the first inline filter that I don't know about? Strainer on the fuel pump?
dkveuro said above to check the fuel tank outlet; that's where the strainer is. strainer, primary filter, secondary filter are the three stops on the way from tank to pump.

sixto's idea to use a boost gauge will also be worthwhile.
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2016, 09:51 PM
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In the bottom of your fuel tank is this strainer.


It screws into the tank from under your car. As it collects more and more dirt, sludge, algee etc....
less fuel can go through it to the engine.

There will be about a 6" piece of hose connected from it to the steel fuel line going to the engine.
This strainer can be removed and cleaned. First it is wise to drain the tank or siphon it before removing .

Good info in this thread. Don`t know the final out come, they come and get help
but don`t let us know if it fixed it or???

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/360842-power-loss-mystery-not-filters.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=mercedes+w123+fuel+tank+strainer&biw=1012&bih=482&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwihmOPc3L_OAhVX5WMKHQPQAYkQ_AUIBygC#tbm=isch&q=site+peachparts%2C+w123+fuel+tank+strainer

Each picture is from a different thread from this forum. click on them and will get you to that thread.


Another problem could be the vent for the tank becoming plugged.
Look behind the L/R wheel, and you will se a small bell shaped piece,
this is the end of the vent.
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2016, 11:33 AM
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Well you need fuel and that can be restricted in the filters and in the tank. But often a real lack of power can be found in a worn out throttle system. If the linkage is out of wack and many of them are, you are not going to get the power. Just have to check it out and chase it down to make sure that your throttle is open all the way when the pedal is down all the way.
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Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2016, 05:43 PM
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Picture 4 shows what looks like a wastegate actuator with no boost signal. That engine's probably been low on power for a while. Hook up a boost gauge so you know if the turbo's up to the job. Use the line that comes off the back end of the intake manifold. With no ALDA and no blue flying saucer, it should be capped off somewhere serving no purpose.

Does this engine have a trap oxidizer?

Sixto
83 300SD
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