Cheap bush extractor LCA - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

spock505 · #1 07-17-2016, 02:08 PM

Some of the existing methods involve quite a bit of brute force, while others require a special bush removal tool.

From what I can see the trick would be to insert something in the end of each bush which then expands into the void.

My proposal would be to use a Rawlbolt of the same hole diameter but long enough to extend into the void. If the bolt was then part tightened the base could mushroom out leaving the stem static.

Here's a few pics to better convey what my waffling typing is trying to:-

I would also plug one end and fill with bio diesel overnight to soften the rubber.

Photos courtesy of Benzworld, thanks.

The above is for illustration purposes only, in use you would need a longer one with threaded bar to attached something, sliding hammer perhaps?

Diesel911 · #2 07-17-2016, 09:44 PM

The concreate Anchor you show is a good idea. Some of them are made of steel some are made of some sort of pot metal.

On a W 123; I already had a tap and a bolt in my colection of tools/junk. I tapped the inner bore of the bushing and screwed the bolt in and used a punch going through the opposite side and beat the businhing out.

One of our members used a torch and burned the rubber out to get the bushing out.

Mesalm · #3 07-18-2016, 05:36 AM

Why do you want a tool to remove it? Are you going to keep it for a necklace pendant? Burn the thing out of there. Then you can put in your new bushing.

spock505 · #4 07-18-2016, 01:13 PM

Cheers Diesel, will give it a go although I did come across some very cheap blind bearing pullers, might do the job too?

Around $25 for 5 piece set.

Not sure burning is the way to go, too much toxic smoke for one plus setting light to the car if arm still attached (see above).

BillGrissom · #5 07-18-2016, 03:30 PM

Great idea. Let us know how it works.

The concrete anchors will likely pull stronger than the bearing tool shown. You will also need a cylinder around the shaft to push against the housing. People often use sockets for that, or pipe nipples. But I don't see any place to push against unless you trim the rubber, or you might be planning to use a slide hammer. In my W123 cars, I recall the LCA (forged steel) extends past the bushing rubber.

The sheet-metal LCA in post 1 looks weaker than a W123's, but the W123 attaches to similar sheet metal brackets on the K-frame which is the weak point. Indeed, in my 1984, the bracket had cracked thru the bushing hole when I got it, the car having been stolen and crashed into a curb. I effected a weld repair w/ a backup steel strap. I expect that in rusty regions those sheet-metal parts fail.

SD Blue · #6 07-18-2016, 03:49 PM

I used all-thread rod, various washers, and an inexpensive 3/4" drive socket set to pull the old bushing after popping the end caps off.

Then I used the same "tools" to install the new bushing. Be sure to lube the new bushing with a water-soluble lubricant for the installation.

Diesel911 · #7 07-22-2016, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spock505

Cheers Diesel, will give it a go although I did come across some very cheap blind bearing pullers, might do the job too?

Around $25 for 5 piece set.

Not sure burning is the way to go, too much toxic smoke for one plus setting light to the car if arm still attached (see above).

Good price on the bearing puller. However, using a punch, especially a steel punch on the jaw ends can crack the jaws.
I found that out the hard whay where I used to work.

Stretch · #8 07-22-2016, 03:48 AM

I don't want to be peeing on bonfires but I reckon the use of an expanding bolt will cause more trouble than it will help.

The LCA design has a tube that fits through the middle of the bushings. In my experience removal of this tube has been the key to success.

In the past I've ground away one end of the tube with a multi-tool and then hammered it out. There are usually little flanges on the bushings themselves that can then be utilised with a hammer and punch to tap one of the bushings part of the way out. There is then enough of a gap between the bushings to fit in a parallel pin punch to hammer one side out proper...

...still despite the weird smelling steam rising from the bonfire - let us know how you get on!

spock505 · #9 07-22-2016, 06:01 PM

I opted for one of the above extractors, couldn't resist $19.65 delivered -

Just assembling my tools ready for LCA and rear bearings in one go, this weekend it's the K1 and K2 valves.

Stretch, all good first hand info which will no doubt come in useful as other methods fail.

Stretch · #10 07-23-2016, 05:27 AM

When you come to fitting the LCA bushings a way of forming the flange on the new tube is to use a wheel bolt =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/277850-how-i-ended-up-fitting-bushings-my-w123-300d-lca.html

This is for a W123 but the same method works for a W201 and a W124

spock505 · #11 07-23-2016, 07:01 AM

Yup, good post - the MB tool does the same during install process, compresses both ends then flares.

That looks a top finish though.

spock505 · #12 08-04-2016, 07:35 AM

Stretch, quick question if I may - was there a conclusive verdict with regard to the bumps on LCA bushes? I maybe wrong, but thought their only purpose related to firmness of rubber used.

Edit, can see the bump on left bush but not sure on right hand one, ..and no, I don't park this in the sea at night, lol

spock505 · #13 08-06-2016, 04:11 PM

Bit of an update for anyone looking to do do this job with above tools.

The sliding hammer with internal puller worked a treat, the metal insert came straight out..but that was all. The remaining rubber bush was having none of that, far too rubbery absorbing most of the force.

Good tool for the money but a bit limited for this use.

Plugged both ends, filled with bio diesel for a day or two.

Stretch · #14 08-06-2016, 04:39 PM

There's mention in the FSM about the bump orientation

I can't remember off the top of my head which way round they go.

Stretch · #15 08-06-2016, 04:43 PM

For the puller - I have used threaded bar and plumbing fittings and washers as extractors before.

The plan is to have a big set of washers on the end of your plumbing fitting (usually a screw threaded cast steel item for HD gas pipes etc) and then use a large flat washer on one end of this fitting - butt the other end up against the LCA - pass threaded bar through plumbing fitting and LCA then put on a big washer that will fit inside LCA...

...tighten nuts on either end of threaded bar so the rubber bushing gets dragged into the plumbing fitting and out of the LCA.

(Takes longer to type out the explanation than it does to do it)