Ok, whats up everyone?
Im the new guy, I have been rebuilding cars for a long time, but this is all new territory for me. I have searched and searched, fell asleep from browsing, woke up searched some more. Basically I have some questions, and the answers I've found are for turbo models.

1. The car runs although im not sure if its proper or not. Sometimes between shifts the rpm spikes and then it shifts like 2 gears. I have found that the culprit is a vacuum modulator for the trans??

2. I think it may need injectors, as there are a lot of noises at warm up and after a long drive. Throttle response is also non existent, but again, NON-turbo. any suggestions?

3. oil pressure according to the gauge in the cluster is always pegged when driving, and then at red lights it sits at about 1.5 to 2, but then after a long drive it sits at 1, but never lower. is that normal?

4. there's a leak at this bolt that i think is where there would be a distributor on a gas model, its very little, but you can see the air bubbles as it leaks. where do i find that seal??

5. the temp sensor i think is bad, and i say think because when the car is off the needle on the gauge sits all the way down, but as soon as i crank it, it kind of jumps?? but never registers anything. what i mean is, it jumps to a higher position than with the key off but never moves.

really those are my big things besides, how do i swap over a turbo motor. i do have an LS complete with trans, and ecu, wiring etc, that i was saving for my ranger, but i got a 302 for the ranger and im thinking of making the mercedes a 300SS. thanks in advance though, i know its a lot, but the car was free and i just need some help getting it right. will post pics if needed

1. Depends on year - your car may not have one but if you know it does well...

2. Check your accelerator linkages are adjusted so full pedal moves the IP lever down all the way

3. Yes

4. Shouldn't be any coming from the oil pump quill shaft, that seal should be tight, is there oil or fuel sitting where the bubbles are?

5. Could be the gauge or the sensor, try shorting out the plug that connects to the sensor on the cylinder head near the glow plugs. The gauge should max out.

As for the LS, eww

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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

2. adjust valves as well.

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

Here's a shot from above.





And here's zoomed in a little.

Now that's a fair leak...I've never had a look myself but must be a crush washer or something that needs replacing there.

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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

That's what I was thinking also, but a guy from here that just happens to live by me said that it's an o-ring. He says that space if normally where the distributor goes on the gas version. I know there is air getting into the fuel system somehow.

No, these is no correlation between the diesel and gas engines. Period. I would put money on that leak being from one of the return lines from the injectors. They are probably due for replacement.

Have you checked the tank strainer?

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Also your bad temp guage could be a cluster grounding issue.

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

On a non turbo OM61X engine that's the top of the drive that runs from the intermediate shaft to the oil pump.

Engine oil gets forced up a galley way behind that cap and off towards the oil filter.

The 'O' ring under this cap might have failed because the parts underneath often shuttle backwards and forwards - wearing themselves out. This is a weak point for the OM61X engine - makes a loud rattling noise (which is difficult to detect on these clattery diesels). Remove the cap and look for wear in the end of the part underneath it - you need to remove a grub screw to pull it out.

Whilst the parts described above might be at fault a far simpler problem could be oil pooling from a leaking valve cover gasket. These gaskets are sold as a "fit only once" item - but they often get used many times.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Never seen a Chevy LS V-8 in a 300D, but it would be neat. People would comment on how quiet your diesel idles. But, any such redesign is extremely complicated, with many "can't get there from here" issues. Biggest would be getting an oil pan that would clear the K-frame. I haven't seen any U.S. engines with a front sump, as you would need. Must also clear the steering linkage and such.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans