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  #1  
Old 12-18-2018, 11:45 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 206
Om617 turbo feed line oil leak

Any tips on removing the turbo oil feed line on a 1983 300d? It's always something...

-Jacked car up to solder a broken wire on the transmission together

-Wanted to remove battery/tray to replace tray and fix water leak on firewall

-Fix leak

-Gut interior to dry carpets/remove water from floors

-Remove air cleaner housing

-Find that air cleaner housing bracket has broken at some point

-Remove/Weld air cleaner bracket

-Reinstall and crank car, pretty severe oil leak from back side of the engine

I'm guessing I broke the line somewhere where it runs along the back of the engine when I popped it off the turbo. How does one go about replacing/sourcing this line? Most info I found was on the oil drain tube not the feed

Thanks in advance

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'84 300D Euro 5 spd
'83 240D 4spd
'83 300D/5 spd manual/Lifted+28" AT Tires
'83 300SD
'10 E63

Parting out- '79 Euro 280TE Green/Green & '89 300SEL White/Grey
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2018, 05:13 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Have a look here

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Turbo Drain Tube

And here

PeachPartsWiki: Turbo Drain Tube Replacement

Does that help?

If not there's a wealth of information in the FSM
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2018, 11:33 AM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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I cannot recall anyone saying there was a lot of difficulty removing and re-installing the Turbo Oil Feed Line. The line attaches at the rear bottom of the Oil Filter by way of an banjo bolt and 2 crush washers (over tightening it can crack the plate the Banjo Bolt screws into). There is a clamp (I only remember one clamp but look for another just in case) that I believe holds the line at the rear of the head or intake manifold and the 2 blots where it mounts on the turbo itself.

After that I am guessing you just have to maneuver the line up and out and to the right side of the car.

When I first got my car the engine all the way back to the transmission were layered with oil and dirt to the extent that 3 cans of Engine degreaser still left a good deal of oily dirt on it. However, it was enough to tell that 95% of the Oil leak was coming out of the back of the Valve Cover Gasket. And that is the area you said is leaking.

If the oil feed line is cracked you are likely better off trying to locate a new or used one because that means the metal is crystalized in that area. If a hole is worn into the line there may be some way to fix it depending on where the hole is.
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  #4  
Old 12-19-2018, 11:38 AM
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The cracked Air Filter Bracket is common. If the engine is shaking you need to do what is needed to calm it down or it can happen again. I guess I lucked out with mine. My engine shook a lot but the mounts on the bracket loosened instead of it cracking.

Also from this forum there is a fix where you put a 3/4 or 1 inch ID section about 8 inches long of heater hose under the Air Filter Housing where it hangs over the Cylinder head/Valve Cover. That limits the distance it can vibrate.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #5  
Old 12-19-2018, 01:22 PM
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Location: Louisiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
The cracked Air Filter Bracket is common. If the engine is shaking you need to do what is needed to calm it down or it can happen again. I guess I lucked out with mine. My engine shook a lot but the mounts on the bracket loosened instead of it cracking.

Also from this forum there is a fix where you put a 3/4 or 1 inch ID section about 8 inches long of heater hose under the Air Filter Housing where it hangs over the Cylinder head/Valve Cover. That limits the distance it can vibrate.
Sweet, thanks.

Both my engine mounts/shocks were beyond destroyed when I got the car, along with 5 injector nozzles needing replaced, a glow plug broken in the pre-chamber, and that injector cracked. Needless to say it shook the entire car. After fixing all that it's as smooth as can be. But obviously that shaking that had been going on for who knows how long had weakened the bracket.


My valve cover gasket weeps a little, but I'm pretty sure this is that feed line since I just removed it from the turbo to snake the air cleaner bracket out. Plus, my car wouldn't leak even a drop of oil before and now it's pouring down the back of the engine.

There is one 300d in a junkyard nearby. If I can't fix this line I'm going to try to snag that one. That car is very very very bad though... I looked at it pre-junkyard and it was way too far gone. And that's bad if I'm saying that IMO
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'84 300D Euro 5 spd
'83 240D 4spd
'83 300D/5 spd manual/Lifted+28" AT Tires
'83 300SD
'10 E63

Parting out- '79 Euro 280TE Green/Green & '89 300SEL White/Grey
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2018, 03:14 PM
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Posts: 178
They can also leak at the gasket where it attaches to the turbocharger. If the the oil line is disconnected from the turbocharger, the mating surfaces need to be cleaned thoroughly, prior to being reattached with a new gasket.
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1982 300D-T
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2018, 10:44 AM
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If frt seats are needed I’ve made some manual seats out of an e46 bmw work , their the sport seats that have the lumbar and fit like a glove . Work well and have more seating adjustments once installed.

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