Turbo drain pipe relacement.

Hey everyone, Its been a while since I posted, my computer crashed,

I am trying to solve a slow but annoying leak of my turbo drain pipe gromit.

I got the bottom bolts off the turbo but feel like I have to be hudini to get those pipes out of the car. I read that it is simplier to just remove the turbo which I am about to try.

Is it manditory to remove the turbo? can it be done a better way. Should I replace the aircleaner drain pipes as well? I think there is a grommit there also. I know that it is leaking from that area where the grommits go into the oil pan. Is the turbo or the Aircleaner drain the more probalble cause?

I am strongly considering replacing all that stuff just to be safe and thorough...


Thanks guys and gals,

BOB C


PS. I hope that volkswagen v10 diesel is a success in this country and that america, like the rest of the world, embraces the diesel engine. It seems that diesel and soccer suffer similar fates, world wide appeal and US apathy.

[leathermang]

I would never argue with someone that wanted to replace all the stuff while he was THERE..... The most likely leak is the Turbo return tube ,,, they are famous for leaking....

On the section about the turbo charger replacement it (FSM) says,,,, install in reverse order..... "please note the following points:

15 Prior to installing turbocharger, attach adapter fitting and oil return pipe. Correct positioning is absolutely essential. "

The Haynes manual does not indicate any differently...

Neither , of course, address specifically trying to replace those seals due to leaking....

So my conclusion is that you need to take the Turbo off to properly replace that gasket, and three seals.... Sorry,, it could have been made so it could be done otherwise.. Greg

leatherman,

Thanks for the reply, I am goin to remove the turbo and change it all out. But I was thinking last night, before sleeping, that I may be able to cut the upper drain pipe at the flanged end so that I am able to clear the lower pipe while replaceing them. It seems like a novel idea that may work. just time off 5 mm. or so. because that is all the extra room I need.

I might have some obessive compulsive disorder when it comes to my cars but I can live with it.

thanks


bob c

There is a way to do it without removing the turbo if you do a search. I looked at these instructions and found it was a royal PIA without a lift. I just removed the turbo and replaced all the O rings and seals. Took about 4 hours to do the whole job. I will say it is not that hard a job, just lots of stuff to take off. Also I did it about 5000 miles ago and there were no leaks for the first 4000. Now I have a very small seep from the seal at the top of the pan where the pipe goes in. It's not bad, about what it was when I bought the car and nothing like the mess it made when I replaced it. I have been told that this is normal to have a very small seep but I don't like it. The seal I replaced was all dried out and it may have been factory since I don't see any mention of replacement in the cars history. I thought about using a section of hose with clamps between the pipe and the pan when I had it all apart to stop any future leaks but figured if the factory didn't do it then it was a bad idea. Now I have to wonder.

[rickg]

My engine only has about 25,000 miles on(was replaced about 2 1/2 years ago) and is a factory crate engine. It leaks at the return tube also. So this must just be "the way they are". I was gonna try and fix it too, but after hearing everyone seems to have the same problem, I guess I'll just live with it.

[leathermang]

The Bob, Since it does have bolts (two m 8x20) at the top (rather than studs) if they had made it able to part somewhere in the mid section it does seem that it could be done reasonably with the turbo in place... from the pictures it is not clear how much room, once the two upper bolts are out, you have to move it to a place which would allow it to be raised enough to get the thicker rubber gasket at the pan out.

If I had it out I would sure consider cleanly parting ( tube cutter maybe ) it along a straight section and fabricating a bolt over cover for it which would allow easier removal and replacement. They do appear to have short life times compared to the rest of the things in the engine compartment.

I just had a brain storm.. or at least a thundercloud..... Shrink tubing is available in huge sizes.. certainly big enough to cover this tube... and it can be shrunk with a hot air blower... I have seen leather whip handles attached to the leather using it... and strong does not begin to describe the larger thicker shrink tubing... neat, strong, and heat resistant,,, but could be taken off with a sharp knife at any time to get access to this tube... or it would not have to be used alone.. it could be shrunk down over a shorter piece of metal covering the cut.... Greg

[Doug Vazquez]

I have replaced the seals on the air cleaner drain and the turbo drain with out removing the turbo. It was a real pain in the butt! If I was to do it again, I would definately remove the turbo. I think it would make it a lot easier and faster.

I used the instructions from the Easley/Ritter FAQ site as my guide. I figured that "this must be the way its done". Oh well, live and learn.

Doug V.

Greg's mention of shrinkwrap is not a bad idea. I have used this stuff for years on high voltage connections (15kv) without fail. I don't know if it would hold up under pressure but it is worth a try. I am going to re-do my drain seal this fall and will give it a try. I think this seal is going to leak no matter what and something holding it tight like shrinkwrap may help.

hey guys and gals,

thanks for your replies

Well I got most of the turbo off. The bottom two bolts which fix the turbo to the exaust manifold are on there to tight for my cheap tools. I might have to go to the store and but a real long 17mm wrench, but I am afraid that I may break the nut.

So, I removed the oil pan and banged out the grommit and lower pipe. Since I did the dirty deed I am wondering if it is possible to finish this job without taking off the turbo. I am strongly considering sawing off 5mm or so of the upper drain pipe to allow me enough room to fit them in.

Just a side note,
I finally have my own garage that I can leave a mess and have jobs half done without the stress. I used to have to do all my repairs in parking lots of the apartments that I lived in. What an upgrade. Plus the garage is heated. dont tell the wife but this is why we bought it.

Thanks for your help.

bob c

[gsxr]

The Bob,

You can get the lower two turbo mounting bolts off with a ratchet, extensions, and a universal joint. The lower front can be accessed from the front of the car, behind the alternator at the front wheel area. You can get to the lower rear from behind the front wheel. It's almost impossible to use a wrench on those two. One thing that helped on mine was a liberal soaking of penetrating oil (Kroil, WD-40, etc) and letting it set for a few hours.

About the drain, I've heard that it's easiest if you pull the lower oil pan for access to the bottom of the tube. Then use a hydraulic bottle jack with the appropriate sized socket to "push" it up & out, no muscle required. I did mine while replacing the turbo (left the oil pan installed) and would never attempt it otherwise... I don't see how you could possibly clean off the old gasket at the turbo flange with the turbo on the car! It was hard enough out of the car! I also wouldn't mess with cutting the tube, if the patch ever failed it would take out your engine pretty quick once all the oil was gone.

Tip: Get a later model diesel with the OM60x engine. Mercedes realized they done bad, and re-engineered the turbo oil drain. It's MUCH nicer on those engines, and simple to R&R. Too bad it never leaks. Wait - I s'pose that's a good thing...


Regards,

hey everyone,

I finally got my diesel back. It took long enough to get the parts, about two weeks from a younger brother whom works at a dealer in fort myers florida.

I tell you what. That was no simple job. Taking the turbo out was a bi$^h. Those four bolts holding it to the exaust manifold are hard to get a grip of, not to mention the fear of breaking them off. I also droped the pan to get out the grommit. What a mess I made in my new garage. The floor looks horrible. Oh well, it is my garage and my wifes house.

To second a earlier tread. getting the grommit into the oil pan was not easy until I read the post which stated to push the grommit down onto the inserted drain pipe. I also lubed it all together with wd 40 to help it along.

I also put anti sieze grease on everything in case I have to go back in there.

I dont want to go back in there. All that work to replace a 4 dollar part. I replaced all the metal pipes also.

One more thing to mention. My bro mailed me a box of mechanic style rubber gloves. I love these things. I thought that I wouldnot because I prefer the dexterity of my own skin, but I have to honestly say that they didnt hinder me one bit and my hands dont look like the usually do after my visit with the diesel. I also sacrificed a full length dress shirt which had a small hole that I could not wear at work and that kept the grime off of my entire body. Clean up was easy but not as much fun


Thanks for your help


bob c