no i did mean
 

it IS a part of the structural system. it keeps the parts from shifting about. and aligns everything in more precise way than bolts can cause they need clearance so they wont bind when turning.

i repeat, i would not leave it out.

tom w

Bull****, it'll be fine (this from 30 years experience as a mechanic/builder, 22 as a mechanical engineer.)

so tomj
 

if it is not needed why did the factory put it in there?

i am not of the opinion that the factory just puts parts in at random that we can at random leave out.

tom w

Speed of assembly in a time-sensitive environment (assy line.)

We have the "luxury" of taking our merry time (cussing, yelling, etc.) re-assembling various "made-for-automated-assembly-line" parts......

having had
 

a number of trannys apart from the bell housing and bell housing from adaptor i disagree. the pegs are locating devices. they are quite tight and center everything precisely. the bolts just pull and have too much clearance to properly center the bell housing. the pegs contribute to the overal integrity of the structure and proper centering. the pegs add significant shear strength as well.

i remain unconvinced that they are irrelevant and only put in for speed of assembly.

and i repeat i wouldnt leave them out. not on my car and not on yours if i were working on it.

tom w

There is ZERO reason for them to BE aligned "properly". THink about it, even if it were 10deg out of rotation, WTH difference would it make? (I bought a 1969 IH pickup once that had the bell housing one-bolt out of rotation!) The slave in connected to the trans housing, so it would just be "out of rotation" with the trans, but still in alignment with what it needs to be. Starter mount is the only thing and as long as it would mount, it will still be in proper rotational alignment with the flywheel as the housing is concentrically grooved to mate to the adapter.

As far as "shear", if your bell housing is seeing a shear stress that the 10mm bolts and alignment groove can't deal with..., forget the pin, we're WAY past that!

Uhhh, aside from all these reparte's, remember, the one tranny/bellhousing DIDN'T have them FROM THE FACTORY! That's why we're debating using one adapter (that had them - the LATER one for the LIGHTER aluminum tranny) over another. I've removed FACTORY trannies that had the holes and NO dowel pins.

For centering, there is a concentric groove/ridge that aligns the trans to the adapter on axis.

I disagree as well. Dowel pins are for locating, and do not support shear. I work in the aerospace industry with mechanical engineers, and dowels are only used to support tolerancing. Shear strength is developed by tightening the fasteners. I don't think dowels are irrelevant though, use them if you have them.

if the groove aligns it why then would
 

they need pins?

i am not concerned about rotational alignment. only centering.

and it is a mystery why anyone would think that the pins would not increase strength.

if you dont have the correct adapter, i would get the correct one and use that. if the connection is designed for pins it will need both sides to match. if it is not designed for pins then both sides need to match there too.

if you can find me a factory manual that says that pins dont matter i will stand corrected. otherwise, if you have a tranny that has holes for pins i say you need an adaptor that has pins too.

you can drive around with four lugs on a five lug wheel too, but that doesnt make it a good idea.

tom w

Dayum guys. I didn't mean to start a war. I just wanted to know if I could bolt a '79 bellhousing to an '82 engine is all. :(

oooh that!
 

dunno.

sorry.

prob will work though.

tom w

Well I knocked the pins out of my tranny in order to mount it to my new engine. The adaptor plate matched all the holes but one, and ALL the fasteners from the original configuration found homes in matched holes... hope it's not a deal breaker. I got the engine in and I'm getting the shift shafts and driveshaft shortened next week. :)

well
 

with any luck you will be fine.

tom w

Off topic: I'm gonna replace W201 722.3 auto with Getrag 5-speed. Clutch is coming from BMW M5 E39 and gearbox is from W201 2.5-16. Should handle 500Nm and with 2.65 rear top speed is around 150Mph. Other parts needed is clutch pedal and hydraulics, shifter from 4-speed W124/201. Propeller shaft comes with gearbox and should be direct bolt on.

Car is basic Finn-spec 190 diesel:
http://www.pbase.com/camerafin/image/44816556

My 240D manual -> 300D manual conversion is done! Everything is sorted, save some kinda vacuum leak that's cropped up, taking out the shutdown and door locks. It runs great, started right up, doesn't shake excessively, and pulls hard. I had the shift links and transmission bracket shortened by Peter Alders, in Emeryville. He also provided the driveshaft. I did the whole project by myself and I'm giddy that it's done and is sucessful. It's my first engine swap in a car, ever! Thanks for all the help, I sure appreciate it. Happy trails. Now to look for the vacuum leak. Anyone know where there's a diagram of all that?

good for you.

it is a lot of work, isnt it?

but now you can enjoy the car and the feeling of accomplishment.

tom w