Can anyone clarify whether or not the metal lines for the self leveling suspension in my 84 300TD should have a break in them just under the pass side front door? Both lines on my car have a plastic section of tubing held in place with small hose clamps, and one line leaks like a sieve. I have tried replacing it with a couple of different types of hose, but nothing will hold tight enough. The "splice" is at the block (with rubber insert) that holds the lines up against the undercarriage.

Any ideas? What is the working rpessure of the hydro pump? Any chance silicon on the ends of the metal tubing might help, or should I just look at brazing some copper tubing in place here?


Many thanks!

Chris

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Neither of the two TD (an 83 and and 85) I mess with have a union there.

FYI-At idle, the system's hydraulic pump generates about 130 BAR (1800 psi).

More here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=86681&highlight=BAR

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Chris,

I can't remember the exact pressure, but we are talking a couple thousand PSI on pressure side. You may need to replace the line or section a piece in with flair fittings. It's too bad Ca. is so far away, because I just parted a wagon out Saturday. The lines were in good shape and you could have them free. You got any friends on flight crew from Travis AFB? I live a couple of miles from Travis and have base access. I'm sure the lines are small enough to fit on a C-5.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

It's not surprising that one leaks and one doesn't. The leaky line is undoubtably the high pressure line from the pump to the raer valve and the one that doesn't leak is the return line which is under far less pressure. At a minimum you'll need to find a better patch for the high pressure line. Given what the proper fluid costs, it'll be worth fixing that sooner versus later.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Thanks for the info! I might just try brazing a piece of copper tubing in there for now, if no one can thing of any reason not to. Yes, it does seem to be the supply line that's leaking (the one on the inside, closest to the driveshaft). Odd that BOTH lines were split at this particular point on my car.... hmmmm...

Peter -- thanks for the offer! I'm sure our tankers get out to Travis pnce in a while, but logistics of getting someone to have parts there at the ready would be a pain in the butt. Plus, I'm a lowly SrA: not exactly one who crew chiefs and loadmasters are willing to go out of their way for! Did that wagon have a good rear hatch, per chance?


Tks,

Chris

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Chris,

I'm betting you kicked something up from the road and damaged the lines. Sorry. I gave the hatch away already. See if you can make friends with someone in low places in the hydraulics department at a maintenance hangar. I'm sure you can find someone who will help a fellow airman.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Thanks, Peter. Indeed, the hydro shop is right next door to us in the Maintenance building (I'm in R&R)... I know pretty much everyone over there. Problem is, I don't go to Guard for another couple of weeks and I am itching to get the car on the road! Plus, it's a 2+ hour drive down to Scott for me. Oh well...

Thanks again, everyone, for the quick replies! This forum is such a Godsend. I'd never be able to afford to own a MBZ without this community!

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Chris,

Good luck and one last thing. DON'T let that pump go dry. Make sure you always have fluid in the reservoir or you will destroy the pump on the front of the cylinder head. The hydraulic fluid is what lubricates it.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.