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  #46  
Old 05-30-2002, 03:35 AM
They call me Darth Speed
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 327
TURBO 300E

AB: TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS

1. HKS AIC type stuff is one option. you will have to plumb into the CIS system. Keeping in mind not to exceed 250hp because of the fuel volume of the fuel pump. I will test the fuel pump soon and let you know. I know most of the Bosch CIS pumps can put out enough for 300hp but you take 20% off that figure for reserve. Paxton makes a Injector Controller as well as APEXi

2. For the water cooled turbo We usually take off and return the coolant where the heater goes into and out of the car. Find the spot where the coolant is the coolest and start there. Then you want it to back to the radiator asap.

3. Use -3 SS/teflon hose (3/16") or Steel tubing and you should have NO problems. Most turbos only require 6-7psi of oil pressure at idle.

4. You can run 7-8 Psi no problem. I need to figure out the max advance on the distributor.

5. Shorter pipe the better but if you cant help it what can you do?

I just got off the phone with one of my customers that has a 300E that he wants to turbo. If he does then I can make the correct exhaust manifold and make castings and sell them?
I will look at his car soon so I can remember all the other details.


Last edited by Speedtek; 05-30-2002 at 05:43 AM.
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  #47  
Old 06-06-2002, 01:17 AM
300EVIL's Avatar
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Update,

My Starion turbo and F/A meter are purchased and will be at my door soon!! I am a little confused with the coolant setup. I am not exactly sure where it should be connected.
Adam
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  #48  
Old 06-06-2002, 11:34 AM
300D TURBO
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adam i have a question can u look for turbo up info for my 300 turbo diesel its already tuned up to 383hp but i just purchased another one not tuned so im going to tune this one too but i cant find info about it
i will be apprechiated thnx

if u wanna send iy to my email my email is trabzonluhamsi61@hotmail.com
THNX!!!!!!!!!!
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  #49  
Old 06-06-2002, 07:45 PM
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Location: Issaquah, WA
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Quote:
Originally posted by ADAM BOURASSA
Update,

My Starion turbo and F/A meter are purchased and will be at my door soon!! I am a little confused with the coolant setup. I am not exactly sure where it should be connected.
Adam
care to share any prices for a couple of people who may want to follow in your footsteps?

by the way, keep us updated please! im very interested in your project you have going on...
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  #50  
Old 06-07-2002, 02:06 AM
They call me Darth Speed
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 327
Mitsubishi Turbochargers

You can obtain the Mitsubishi Turbos from turbochargers.com:

http://www.turbochargers.com/TurboUpgradecatalog/TurboupgradeCatalog.htm

for the 300E make sure you get one from the 85-89 Starion/Conquest Intercooled. The stock unit is a 12G and is great
on the 300E with or without intercooler. I have dynoed this setup
before and have gotten 350 HP Intercooled with 18 psi. 320 HP @ 12 PSI. (your results may vary. The intercooler we used was not the best...) 12G $600 NEW I think.

(The non-intercooled version has great boost at the low end but falls off at 4700 rpm on a 300E. 5000 rpm on a 2.6L)

The TD05-16G unit is great if you are planning on running 12-17 psi boost for 350 to 375 HP. $745 NEW!

AIR/FUEL RATIO METERS. Check out egauges.com

We sell a lot of the Autometer A/F gauges. I also use to sell a lot of the Cyberdynes. I am planning on getting those again they were GOOD and CHEAP. I think JC Whitney sells them for $35
Learning how to use them is the most important thing.

BOOST GAUGES
When buying boost gauges it is a good idea to take them to your local Hydralic Fitting shop and have them test it. I have so many boost gauges that are off 2-3 psi and these are MAJOR brand ones. Even though it is off just remember how much. I find VDO to be pretty accurate. I am tuning a Prelude right now and the Autometer gauge reads 8psi and it is really 12psi!

Why is this important? Well at 12psi I need to chage to colder plugs and MAKE SURE timing is Retarding to 28 degrees BTDC.
At 8 psi I run the timing at 30 BTDC @ 4000 RPM.

For testing I use a 4" Calibrated Industrial Type liquid filled gauge.
0-30 PSI. I temporarily plug it into the same boost line going to the in-car gauge.

GOOD LUCK!
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  #51  
Old 06-07-2002, 03:03 AM
190e26
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twin turbo vs. single

I have heard conflicting stories about twin turbo setups as oppose to single turbos. Is the turbo lag greater on a twin turbo setup, because their are two turbos to spin, and the higher rpm horsepower greater, or is the turbo lag less on a twin turbo setup? I apologize for my ignorance about turbos, and am trying to learn more. Thanx
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  #52  
Old 06-07-2002, 04:11 AM
They call me Darth Speed
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 327
TWIN TURBOS

Twin turbos are used for less lag. you have 2 smaller turbos spinning up faster because the Impeller wheels are smaller diameter and lighter. Of course you could have 2 big turbos then have a lot of lag. The turbocharger designs now are better than 10 years ago so the "lag" you hear about is less. You can design a turbo system to be lagless. There are varible vane turbos that offer NO LAG.

LAG can also be lessened by running higher compressions.

I have experimented with using both supercharging and turbocharging on the same engine. The results were: As soon as you get the throttle over 2000 RPM "ALL HELL BROKE LOOSE!"
There was no such thing as lag on that car.

Some guys think that lag is when you cruise the car in 4th gear at 1000 rpm and try to floor the car and it doesn't pull to 3000 rpm.
that is not lag. You are out of the power band of the engine!

Hope you understand a bit more?
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  #53  
Old 06-07-2002, 12:52 PM
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Speedtek,
Now you tell me!!
I only spent $50 for this turbo so im not worried if it won't fit my application. The model no on the compressor is TC05-12A, I think its an A at the end, hard to see in pics.
Thanks!
Adam
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  #54  
Old 06-07-2002, 01:15 PM
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Wow, gettin me all excited. Not a bad price for the components of a turbo... but I do have another question. You mentioned running 12-18 PSI on a 300E. Now, my question is: To run that high of pressure, don't you have to lower engine compression? That's just what I've heard but I would hate to have to go through all that work. If this is true, what methods do you take to lower the compression... and if it's too much work to do that, is there an effective way to run the same turbo with less pressure (say 6-8) and still get some good results (I'm just shooting for 250-275 hp) without having to mod the bottom end?

Oh and one more thing, what are the crucial components to the turbo setup? I know of course the turbo itself, and you mentioned that an intercooler is optional... but what about all those sensors and blow off valves and stuff? Can you make a shopping list of the components you NEED to have on a bare bones turbo setup please? Sorry for the questions, I'm an eager learner and a curious guy
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  #55  
Old 06-07-2002, 01:46 PM
They call me Darth Speed
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 327
turbo

What year M103 motor do you have? Some of them are 9.2 to 1 and 12 psi is no problem. Just need to retard the timing under boost. 6-8 psi should be no problem. I would install a Bosch blow off valve from a Volvo or Ford. They are fairly cheap. This will help save the Turbo bearings from blade braking. (That is when you let go the accelerator and the throttle body closes off and the air pressure has no where to go so it causes the turbine wheels to almost stop suddenly. hence Blade Braking and yes in some high boost applications the blades can break off)

I would not worry too much about the bottom end of your motor it is very strong. We have run 380HP on the stock motor with no problems. (compression 8.5:1, 16 psi, Water Intercooled)

ADAM - Good deal on the turbo! but that is one from a Starion non intercooled. but it will be fine.
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  #56  
Old 06-07-2002, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 52
Question

What are the a/r for the intercooled starion turbo?
What garrett is approximately the same as the starion turbo?

Thanx
Dan
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  #57  
Old 06-07-2002, 03:31 PM
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with 93 Octane in the US, what can the effective compression be? I am doing a twin turbo right now and I havn't been able to find decent information about this. Any suggestions on engine compression vs. boost? Thankyou
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  #58  
Old 06-07-2002, 05:26 PM
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I have an '86 300E. I believe the compression ratio is as you described. I'll probably pull up some components and see what I can do with a little messing around. What do you guys usually do for your manifolds? You take them to a welding shop or something and have them fabricated or do you do your own work or are there by chance any applications out there you can buy that will fit this engine that will work on the turbo?
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  #59  
Old 06-11-2002, 10:45 PM
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OKAY, I am down to purchasing the last essential components. What is absolutly necessarry when running under 5psi to start.

1. Blowoff valve?

2. Fuel injector controller for enrichment?

3. Ignition timing Controller?

Which of these are absolutely necessary? Also, what brands/systems are recommended?
Thanks!
Adam
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  #60  
Old 06-12-2002, 11:32 PM
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Location: NH-Live Free or Die
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I appreciate everyone's contribution to this thread, with special thanks to Speedtek!

I am in the SLOW process of adding an intercooled single turbo to a 1990 300SL (129) with the M104 engine.

I though I would post urls to a couple of pictures of the exhaust manifold in the late stages of fabrication. I have since finished the fabrication but have not yet pressure tested and sent out for ceramic coating.

http://www.concentric.net/~whitcomw/images/SL/PIC00005.JPG
http://www.concentric.net/~whitcomw/images/SL/PIC00012.JPG

The turbo details: The compressor housing A/R is T04E series turbo (50) with a number 11 compressor wheel (Garrett P/N 442476-0011). Measurements on the compressor wheel: OD = 2.2", ID = 2.99", height = 1.5". The turbine housing is a T3 with .48 A/R, narrow base, open throat. The turbine shaft is a T3, slope ground to high performance specs. It has a water cooled center section and has an integral waste gate. Purchased from 'theturbohouse' via ebay.

I will post more as I make more progress. My questions are what is best for fuel enrichment and ignition timing control when using CIS-E.

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1994 E320 Coupe (120k)
1990 300SL (BBS,RENNtech adds)
1988 260E Sedan (180k)
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