OK, I've been bitten by the upgrade bug. I've been reading a lot on what can be done for the E320 wagon. In particular I'm really grateful for Neil's (ke6dcj) comments on everything he has done for his car. Especially going with the 500E components for the suspension.

I have a 95 E320 wagon that I suspect has a faulty rear self leveling suspension. I've owned the car for almost 3 years and it has never leveled when under load. Initially I thought about trashing the SLS and going with a conventional shock/strut suspension. But after reading up on the archives, I believe it is possible to make it work. I guess I'll just need to have it repaired.

I am not a mechanic. I can do some very basic stuff but when it comes to something like a suspension, I will leave it to someone more experienced. My question: It sounds like a lot of people on the forum do their own work on their own cars. For someone who does not, how do you go about finding someone knowledgeable with a Mercedes? I would imagine most mechanics would just go with installing stock parts. I have a chance to purchase a set of 500E springs from Brandon (drbrandini) so before I buy his springs and the rest of the 500E suspension components recommended in the archives, how do I find the right mechanic? Are the parts pretty much the same as stock and just a matter of switching things out? Should a knowledgeable suspension mechanic be able to do the work without problems?

Sorry for the long message. I hope you fellow wagon owners can help. Thanks!

__________________
Benson

1995 E320 Wagon
1996 Volvo 850GLT

I don't have a W124 but I have done some upgrading on my cars, most notably a 1986 Volvo 740 turbo. It's all a matter of not biting off more than you can chew. If you have limited experience you need to get more in an incremental way. Put in another post, 'looking for help in Anywhere USA'. You need a mentor. I had one early on and sometimes I got in over my head.

Only recently, I started working on suspensions, ball joints and such. You need three thing; tools, tools and more tools. I get most of mine at Sears, some at Home Depot or Lowes. You need good quality ones not the Harbor Freight variety, although some are just fine.

Personally speaking, when performing suspension upgrades, make sure the current suspension is in good shape, ball joints and tie rod ends, bushings, brakes and such.

For the best performance increase for your car, consider putting the 500E sway bars on first. That's an easy upgrade. Make sure you have a heavy duty jack and stands, Sears sells a combination for around $100.

A shock upgrade is easy on that car as well and would be another opportunity to buy more tools.

The springs require a special tool, a Klan brand spring compresser. Big Bux, big.

I recently bought a 1/2" drive ratchet with a movable head and an 18" handle. It's great for getting in tight places. A click stop torque wrench is a must as well.

The 124 CD repair set is a must, but it's not a how to manual. Chiltons would be better for that.

Asses your tools and report back so we can make some recommendations.

For your 850, check out www.ipdusa.com for FWD upgrades.

BTW, don't worry about long messages.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

theres a thread "good mechanics in your area" somewhere here too.

__________________
'O=00=O'
bmw 2002.
long live the legend

Independents:
==========
Check the archives for SF Bay Area mechanics.

Also, ask the dealer's part's manager for a recommendation. Usually, they know who works on the "older" cars.

Get at least 2-3 names, and interview them in person.

Read up on the rear SLS suspension and how it works here:

SLS Theory of Operation:
http://www.silcom.com/~neilv/500E/32-0501.pdf

Height Verification:
http://www.silcom.com/~neilv/500E/40-0300.pdf

Adjusting SLS neutral position (read SLS Theory first!):
http://www.silcom.com/~neilv/500E/40-0310.pdf

Then, ask them how the suspension works, and how they would diagnose it not working.

It could be as simple as it being improperly adjusted, or the torsion bar mount is loose.

Based-upon how they answer, and what you know to be true, and the feeling you get from them, you can make a decision.

Do-It-Yourself (DIY):
==============
Again, IMHO, the only way to really understand IF you can do some of the suspension work is to READ the factory manuals.

I would go on Ebay and purchase the W124 factory manuals on CD-ROM, and read up on it.

After you have read and studied the manual, if it sounds like something you want to tackle SAFELY (no cheap or lack of tools), then you can begin the journey.

However, can you AFFORD the downtime of your wagon ? Do you have tools, resources, and time ?
If not, don't do it.

Case in point:

I've removed and replaced my wagon's diff many times, but not my 500E's.

I read up & studien the procedure, and thought I could do this.

Then I jacked up the 500E (on jack stands), and inspected what exactly I would need to do. ALL steps to completion.

Seeing the potential to disconnect the rear muffler, the rust surrounding it, and knowing it was my wife's car, I promplty backed-away from this and have now budgeted my mechanic to do this instead.

:-) neil
1988 E36T AMG
1993 500E

BTW: I now own the $500+ Klann spring compressor, (4) 3-ton jackstands; (2) 3-ton floor-jacks; 80-gallon air-compressor, and numerous specialized MB tools from Stahlwille and Hazet (most from Samstag Sales).

Thank you all for your replies. Reading the forums, I was under the impression that a lot of people do their own work or even had friends who were technicians who could help them.

Now some questions about the 500E springs. I know that in the archives there is mentioning of the 400E or 500E springs being ideal for the Hammer models with the V8 engines, however, what about the stock E320 inline 6? Would the springs keep the car at a higher level with the lighter engine? Will the 500E springs and struts just fit right in with no modifications needed?

Thanks again. I really am enjoying doing all this research on my car. BTW, just this weekend I swapped out my stock 15" wheels for 16" wheels from a C230Kompressor (I think), and it has made a drastic change in the appearance of the car, not to mention the handling. Surprisingly the car is quieter with the Contitouring tires than with the P6000 on my 15" originally.

__________________
Benson

1995 E320 Wagon
1996 Volvo 850GLT

I still recommend putting in the 500E sway bars first. It's a simple upgrade and doesn't require any special tools. A shock upgrade or replacement with the original style may be all you need.

Just my opinion.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

I personally would put a 500E sway bar in the rear, but not stiffen the front sway bar that much. This will remove a lot of understeer. The front of your six cylinder car is not as heavy as the front of a V8 500E.

Putting the 18MM bar in the rear will make a NOTICABLE difference.

Good luck,

Maybe a 400E front sway bar?

As an example, I replaced my 740T sway bars, which were 23 mm front, 19 mm rear, with 25 mm front and rear IPD sway bars. the car went from a leaning hog to one that was very tossable. The difference was like night and day.

Take it from me, fwiw, you will be able to drive faster through the turns, avoid obsticles and use the power better.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

I have read many of Larry's posts on the forum and really appreciate your feedback here. Not to belittle Warren's feedback also, thanks!

The impression I'm getting is that perhaps I should try a 500E rear sway bar before doing anything else. Maybe if I'm happy with how it is, I won't have to do much else, which would save me a lot of money! I am in no way looking to build a track car but just looking to improve the spongy ride of the wagon. I have already noticed a difference in grip and handling with the 16" wheels and going from 195 to 205 width.

Thanks again. Now I'm going to do a search in the archives for swapping out the rear sway bar. Any comments about it being a relatively easy job? How about where to buy only a rear sway bar? I'm pretty sure they usually come as a set.

__________________
Benson

1995 E320 Wagon
1996 Volvo 850GLT

Are you looking for less lean; less "spongy ride" , or less understeer (better balanced car).

If you want the "spongy" feeling to go away, get stiffer front struts (e.g., Bilstein HD's). The rears will need either the Euro Sportline wagon self-levelling struts, or stiffer springs to remove the spongy feeling.

Less lean in front, install bigger swaybars, BUT you will have more understeer unless you install a bigger rear swaybar.

My order to reduce "sponginess" would be:

front struts
rear struts
500 Rear swaybar
Sportline front swaybar
500E (daily driver) or Sportline (stiffer than 500E) springs all around

:-) neil

Lucky,

I have never replaced the rear sway bar in a wagon, but I have in a sedan. It is a little involved depending on the equipment you have to work with.

I have done it with the use of a two post lift and a transmission jack and I have also done it with nothing to use except a floor jack and jackstands. I'm sure it is not necessary to tell you which was easiest.

Either way, what you have to do is raise and support the car safely so that rear wheels can be removed and the body is supported. You put your jack under the rear suspension system and remove the subframe to body mount bolts, then lower the entire rear suspension enough that you can snake the bar through. The sway bar links and sway bar mounts should be removed before removing the subframe bolts.

On the wagon, it might be that the rear struts must be disconnected at the top, but I'm not sure.

Stiffening up the rear sway bar without other changes is sort of a personal preference thing. I've stiffened the rear bar only on several cars over the years and really like the result. It will take out a lot of the understeer.

On my 300E, I first put on Sportline bars front and rear, then I put the stock bar back on the front, then I put a 500E bar on the rear. That's when I really enjoyed the feel of the car. If I was starting over, I would put the 500E bar on the rear and be done with it. That's just my own personal preference. Yours and others may very well be different.

Good luck,

This might help:

http://www.meimann.com/images/mercedes/W124_sway_bars/

Some pics.

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

That's a good pdf covering the installation. I, however, have never found it necessary to disconnect the driveshaft to lower the subframe far enough to snake the sway bar out and back in. If you disconnected the driveshaft you might could lower it far enough so that the bar came out more easily, but you should be able to work it around okay without doing this.

Good luck,

I concur, you don't need to drop the driveshaft or exhaust to R&R the wagon's rear swaybar.

:-) neil