Here is my issue - steering box adjustment 72-450

[meltedpanda]

So I have a little play in my steering car seems to be wondering a bit at speed and the play in the steering seems to be part of the issue.
I have new tie rods, sway bar idler arm bushings. I figure the box needs a tweak.
Some PO or perhaps original there is a long 6MM rod that comes up past the exhaust manifold that goes into the adjusting screw . I think - great , good thinking on someones part however when I try to get to lock nut , it is impossible, no room. And the rod does not come off so I cant snake a 19mm socket down there. My engine is either sitting too low ( the mounts look good) or something is amiss
Has anyone ever seen this set up, or had a lock nut they could not get to?
any options?
When I was under there I noticed the steering damper to be of old vintage. I am going to replace, any specific brand suggested?
From what I see it may be my only variable to change out.
Also I am wanting to get both front wheels off the ground , to test the play while running - suggestions, these daggon cars are so low to the ground
edit -
now that I am thinking about it my idler arm bushings may not be new - is this a PIA job?

[Deltacom]

Hi Ron,

Suggest the following (it worked very well for me).

1. Remove the hex-bit you have on the adjusting screw. (it shouldn’t be there!).
2. Loosen the motor mounts bolts (without taking them out!) until they stand proud of the engine brackets about ½ inch.
3. Use a floor jack with a piece of timber about 2X10X5” under the oil pan and jack up the engine about 1/2" inch. This will give you the clearance for the socket with the 6mm hex-bit between the adjusting screw and the engine block.
4. Obtain a 10mm 3/8” drive short socket and a short 6mm hex-bit with 10mm wide end. 2 short 3/8” drive wobbly extensions and 15-17” long ratchet extension bars and 2 3/8” drive ratchets (see pics).
5. Insert a 19mm crow-foot socket with the wobbly extension and long extensions between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head just above the steering box with the crow-foot socket to your left. Wrapt a tape around the 6mm hex-bit to tap tight into the 10mm socket so it will not get stuck like the bar you now have on the adjusting screw and the 6mm hex-bit on the extension bars on the adjusting screw with a bit of oil on the 6mm bit so that you can withdraw when adjusted. The locking nut is very tight on the adjusting screw and a squirt of penetrating oil will help. Turn the adjusting screw ¼ of a turn to the left (unscrewing motion) and tighten the lock nut. Test the steering with the weight of the car on the wheels and repeat until you obtain ½” to the left and ½” to the right on the steering wheel (total 1” play is the norm).

The adjustment should be carried out after you replace the steering idle bushes which is very easy to replace. Remove the bolt and notice there should be a washer between the top bush and the steering arm linkage. Start with the bottom bush removal with a screw driver to pry it out and a pair of players to remove it. With the bottom bush removed insert a 19”mm socket ½” drive on an ratchet extension and either tap the top bush out or push the extension with a floor jack. The new bushes are installed top first using the old idler bolt as a tool smearing sliding KY jelly or similar on the bush, then the bottom one. Tighten the bolt to 70 Nm. Hope this helps.

[meltedpanda]

Thanks Delta, that helps, also comforting to know that mine is probably set up like others ( the difficulty getting to the lock nut) . Does one get to the engine mounts this way to change them out?? Might do that while I am at it. ???
After careful inspection last night it looks as though the adjusting screw is out quite a ways, i am wondering now if over the years this adjustment has been abused and may not be any left, which of course is a new or refurb steering box.. I dont even want to think about that job, I will leave that to the next generation ....
let me know what you think , and thanks again

[Deltacom]

Hi Ron,

If the adjusting screw protudes more than 15mm above the lock nut then no more adjustment is possible and the box will need to be replaced if there is more than 1" play at the steering wheel.

Yes, replacing the engine and subframe mounts are done that way. They really would need to be replaced at the same time, you will notice a great difference when you drive and Paratroop made a great write up with pics in this link http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=250220 on the procedures step by step. (check your PMs)

[meltedpanda]

thanks, good info

[meltedpanda]

Delta, that 15mm is with the lock nut off , correct, I have a steering box spare and the adjusting screw comes out about 10mm above nut max
My car is about the same 10mm above

[Deltacom]

Ron, 10mm above the nut is about half a way the adjusting range. It means you still have a few turns of adjustment in both boxes. A good idea would be to overhaul the spare box you have with a kit they sell for the purpose (I just overhauled a spare one) and I know you are more than up to the job. There is a superb step-by-step write up a fellow member made (David Petryk) with pics and process stages.

[meltedpanda]

Ahh - and yes I have the kit and the box as - things to do and will do this winter. So I do have some to adjust, I have ordered a new damper and when that gets here I will do both. I was pleased to find out after digging through some of the previous owners service data that all rubber underneath has been replaced in the last 20K - and sometime in its past the Mercedes recall performed including engine mounts ,body mounts, tie rods ect. My only variable now that I can tell is the "box" , steering damper , and possibly the sterring coupling -- but I cannot even visualize that part

So more to follow, great info and will post results..

[Bill Adkins]

The car you are working with is a 107 chassis SL. Correct me if I'm wrong. That car has a subframe or suspended front axel mounting. The frame is mounted to the chassis with 4 rubber mounts set in pockets and the engine sets above the front axel carrier with two mounts. These mounts can and usually cause a loose feeling steering as well as the dampener. Disconnect one end of the dampener and push/ pull the loose end . If there is any looseness or free play it needs to be replaced. I am just suggesting you evaluate the front axel completely prior to repair at the box. The 107 chassis did have a loose feel in the steering. The later models had more caster in the front axel that improved that situation.
Bill

[Deltacom]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

.....and possibly the sterring coupling -- but I cannot even visualize that part.

This is how you can visualize it for your 72 107.... it's a lot of fun replacing it.....

[Bill Adkins]

Can you see the steering coupler being loose, replaced a lot of those in the past. It's not really all that bad if you can get underneath it.
Bill

[meltedpanda]

BIll
yes it is a w107 as you describe, I cannot visualize the steering coupling, I have her up on ramps, all rubber mounts renewed, interesting comment about loose steering in early 107 450's cant get much earlier than mine 72 450 - 549 th off line

[Bill Adkins]

Hi again, the steering coupler is attached between the gear box and the steering column. One end has a fine spline and the other a double d end meaning it only installs one way at that end. The box end is splined. The coupler is located in a recess above and behind the box, its almost hidden in a recess in the firewall. I usually drop the box by removing the three frame bolts and with careful inspection you will be able to visualize the allen screw at the box end of the coupler. The other end may require removal of an interior cover plate at the floor, don't remember exactly as the early ones may be different. If your not real careful you can get the steering wheel out of sync when re-installing. There is a 12 mm plug that will need to be removed and there is a bolt with a pointed end that installs into the box and locks the box in center position for install. Pay attention to the coupling position on the box input shaft so you can repeat the location exactly. Have a nice day
Bill

[Richard Wooldridge]

My '79 had a worn out steering coupler, and I was able to replace it by lifting the cover inside the passenger compartment to get at things after removing the bolt at the steering box end from underneath the car. It only took a couple of hours to do it all, and completely fixed my loose steering issue. The coupler has the same kind of soft plastic in it that the shifter linkage bushing has, and it was totally shot.

[meltedpanda]

I will look but I dont think my 72 has an access through the cabin