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#1
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Shifter and seat issues
I'm a big guy so at stop lights I shift into neutral so I don't have to depress the brakes for so long and I actually shift into N whenever I stop on a flat surface. I noticed that when I go to shift into D the light goes out on N quickly and well before engaging drive and there are almost two clicks before it engages in neutral. Basically there is too much play in the shifter and there is slippage. It goes into drive and works fine but something is amiss. What should I do? Also the plastic cover on the left side of the bottom of the driver's seat must have a broken clip because it is loose and flapping. Is this an easy fix? The shifter issue started after I had the cigarete lighter light replaced. I also had to get new switches and a driver's side window regulator when my driver's side window would not go up anymore. The dealer obviously did something wrong as my shift encasement tabs are broken and it flops up now since there is no locking in place. The dealer in question is too far away to bring back there as I had this done coinciding with the 1500 mile checkup on my Kleemann kompressor. I had a local dealer fix the window sitch but I still have the shifter problem. What could have gone wrong? Is this a typical problem on '99 MLs as just a coincidence with the bulb replacement or did the dealer screw up?
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#2
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As far as the seat, It's probaby broken. I've seen several posts on the subject. Seems like the posts usually say that they a large people too. |
#3
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I know once it shifts into drive it takes a few seconds
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#4
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lochs2, i think it's wear and tear given the frequency with which you shift. A new shifter assembley may help...
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#5
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Yeah I'd tend to agree the shifter "may" be worn out. That's all I can gather because the description of what's going on is totally whacked (don't try to describe it again, it only makes it worse), as is the habit of shifting it to neutral on the stops, and I see no connection to "big guy" with doing this. If you got something going on in traffic and you have to move "like right now" here you are stabbing it into drive to get it going. Plus then you say you just do this "on the level", so I suppose you are guessing it's level enough you aren't going to roll away if you aren't paying attention. What if you get rear ended? Might be nice to have a little extra rolling resistance (I assume you are taking your foot off the brake and this is the advantage to putting it in neutral, this is the only possible connection I can make to doing this and you being a big guy). Also then you're sitting there without the brake lights on at a stop light, sometime people coming up behind you LIKE to know if you have the brakes applied, that's why the lights are there.
The trim on the bottom of the seat, usually it breaks off at the rear and can't really be repaired to any grade of dependablity. You can replace just the broken side though. Tough part is up front where it engages into the front piece. Usually it's a better repair to remove the seat and remove all 3 sides of the trim to be able to engage the side trim to the front. If they broke the tabs off of the trim around the shifter (the black piece of trim) you can get that seperately. Another possible problem based on "what I can decipher" from your shifter ramblings is that maybe a bushing on the shifter rod is worn out? That could be caused by you tormenting your shifter as you've described. Knock it off! Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#6
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__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#7
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I had a feeling the seat repair would not be a peice of cake. I'll leave it alone since it does not make noise while driving and cosmetically no one will know about it because they won't see it! |
#8
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Kleemann Ml43k
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I have never driven an ML55 but the technician at Knauz who installed it said it was very "ML55 like in performance". He was the only person other then me that I have allowed to drive it. I plan to get one of those toys you put on the dash that does 0-60 times and such to get actual results...off the line it is MUCH quicker but it is a heavy vehicle and sitting high up like we all do in our MLs you can't really feel it like you would in a CLK for example. What I like best about it is when you are at speed. Say, when I'm going 30 or 45 or 60 and then just gun it, it really moves. There is so much power at the higher RPMS but it has incredible low-end torque. At 88 MPH I'm only at 3,000 RPMS and there is plenty of power to take it to whatever top speed it can do...I won't ever find out because 90 is as fast as I'll go. I had it installed with 67K miles on the odometer. I've driven over 5,000 miles with the kompressor and it is flawless. Even with the temp in the 90s and the air on full blast it just goes like it was factory installed. Of course in the cooler night air it spins much happier. Kleemann sells it on "comfort power" and really it is. I don't worry a bit about it. I had an issue with the oil seal as it was leaking from the cap but not enough to drip on the driveway. I had Knauz fix that for me. You can really hear the kompressor at work too. It's not quiet...but then again it's not overly loud either compared to other supercharged vehicles I've been in[I have owned a '92 GMC Typhoon and also a '03 Xterra S/C]. I put a supersprint exhaust kit[sport muffler and pipes] on it and it does not sound like a MB anymore...but again not like a dual pipe Ford or Chevy truck. I think it is tasteful but purists might disagree. I'll post some pictures of my ML when I get a chance. I've done a lot to it! Anyone that ventures to my side of town I'll gladly take you for a ride in it! |
#9
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#10
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"The trim on the bottom of the seat, usually it breaks off at the rear and can't really be repaired to any grade of dependablity. You can replace just the broken side though. Tough part is up front where it engages into the front piece. Usually it's a better repair to remove the seat and remove all 3 sides of the trim to be able to engage the side trim to the front. - Gilly "
I need to replace this lower left side trim on the drivers seat. I have the power drivers seat with memory. Does any one have this part number? Any idea about its approximate cost? Is this a special order item, or has it happened enough that dealers will normally stock this part? Clayton |
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