My buddy has a cobblestone driveway that usually get filled with weeds and grass and stuff...well a month or so he converted his pool to a salt water system and had to go to Home Depot for big bags of Morton's salt....he had one bag bust on him in the driveway by the garage...he sprayed it down with water and till now not one weed, not one spec of grass...nothing.....ground zero on his driveway and the edging of his lawn...

Don't know if it will stay that way but it looks like Hiroshima on that driveway right now....he has decided to not let his dog out on the driveway for the moment so we do not know if it will have a long term affect on anything

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Showing up every day isn't enough. There are a lot of guys who show up every day who shouldn't have showed up at all. - James Caan

Have him water the edge where the grass died ... eventually it will "leach" the salt out of the soil. Otherwise, he'll just have to dig up the "dead zone" and replant.

As for the driveway itself, if the "salted" area continues to "bleed" over to the edge of the driveway, anywhere the runoff goes, it'll start to look like the edge of the roads up north here...nothing except scrub-brush and deer hanging out on the edges. He may have to install some sort of "edging" to channel any water down to the roadway to keep the runoff "isolated" from the soil.

His other option could be...

He can rent his driveway out as a "cow-lick" for the local farmers.

BTW, I don't think the dog is going to have any problems. Unless the dog is some sort of brain-damaged runt-of-the-litter.

If I were him, I'd be more worried 'bout the deer hanging out in his driveway.

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M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125
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“I didn’t really say everything I said.”
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~

Application tricks I've used to effectively stop accidental herbicide drift include a paint roller, wick tube, and have even used rubber gloves covered with a cheap cotton glove. Just dip into the roundup solution mixture and roll or wipe to your hearts' content...of course only make contact with the items you intend to erradicate. As a caution, I convince myself and advise any users to think than one micron of the product will do some damage if not actually kill...that makes you think twice about using the Lazyman's liquid approach to weeding around your prize Rhododendrons or Peonys.

Also, roundup contact with the stems or exposed roots will kill just as completely as foliar application... so know where you go with this stuff.

AND NO, ROUNDUP AND OTHER GLYPHOSATE PRODUCTS ARE NOT SELECTIVE IT WILL DAMAGE ANYTHING THAT IT TOUCHES.

However, is does not have a residual effect in the treated area soil...although I typically try to wait a few days or 12 before planting there.

If you are looking for the right stuff to use for specific application, stop by an Independent Professional Nursery or Garden Center and ask their guidance. Look for those who are associated with Ferti-Lome, HiYield, or Nature-Gard Products. You can look up the FertiLome Web address and search for a local source.

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Bama1


2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane"
2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy"
1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans
1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude"

1954 model original owner - ~2.5M
Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis

Perfect, R Leo.

Another useful thing one can do is add a tiny amount of detergent to the sprayer. I know, I know: Round-Up already has a surfactant. But if you hit something with a heavy cuticle like Portulaca, Sedum or Euphorbia; or something very hairy like Cnidosculum (bull-nettle), etc, the normal glyphosphate & surfactant just isn't we enough to reach into the stomata -- the easiest point of entry for the herbicide. Put a couple of ml's of detergent per liter and you'll have some sticky herbicide that will kill dang=near any plant it touches.

Oh yeah, DO NOT use glyphosphate anywhere near your tomatoes. They are especially sensitive to it. Best time to apply is late evening. Glyphosphate is photoreactive and so quickly breaks down in sunlight. Apply it overnight and it stays liquid longer, which enhances it's translocation and without sunlight, it will last longer.

Thanks for the tip Bot...in the past we've used detergent on a couple of occasions when we've run out of surfactant. What do you think about simply dropping the surfactant?

We're particulalry overtaken with simlax (greenbrier), a tenacious thorny, woody vine that is damned near impossible to kill.... when you zap the leaves it kills the nearest part of the plant but pretty soon you'll see another sprouting up close by os I guess there's some connection in the root system. In areas that we want to rehabilitate we've used significant amounts of glyphosate herbicide during the last two years. It appears to have finally knocked out the simlax there because it's not reappearing this spring.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Exactly the system we use (you can also use cooking oil for a vehicle) . Smaller mesquite saplings (mainly what we have to deal with at BHF) are problematic to adminster the minimal killing dose w/o overspray and waste. With Remedy, huisache die even faster than a mesquite!!! ...3 days and they look like someone set a match to them.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Smilax (catbrier, greenbrier, sawbrier) has large rhizomes called lignotubers. They are mostly starch and lignified cellulose with small amounts of undifferentiated bud cells. usually herbicide is not translocated quickly enough in sufficient concentration to kill large lignotubers of Smilax and other species with similar structures.

Smilax also has a very heavy cuticle covering the epidermis, especially on the upper surfaces of the elaves and on the stems. The lower leaf surfaces often have very fine hairs. Both surfaces tend to protect the epidermis by holding the chemical away from living tissue. This is a plant that could stand a little extra detergent to help wet the entire surface of the leaf and stem.

It maybe that Smilax is one of those plants that require digging-out of the ground and hauling away.

there used to be a butt-kicking herbicide that would kill like a neutron emitter, Velpar. It was used to kill plants in surface cracks and would persist in the soil for a long time.

Another chemical that will kill plants and also persist for a long time is copper sulfate. In small concentrations it actually acts like a bit of a fertilizer. But in large concentrations, everything dies. Including microinvertebrates, large animals and even bacteria. Be careful.

Here's the MSDS for copper sulfate: http://www.oldbridgechem.com/msdscuso4.html

Watch out how much moisture in the ground is around the weed you use it on. I used it lightly on some weeds around the base of a tree. Almost killed the tree. Thankfully it recovered almost a year later, when I was going to remove it.

Good luck with the mesquite. The seeds (like rattlebox) persist in the soil, sometimes for decades. Disturbing the soil (like tilling) will stimulate germination even years after you think all of the plants and seeds are gone. You'll be like "Jason and the Argonauts" tilling the ground with dragon's teeth and harvesting myrmidons. Cedar, too. Bet you've found that out the hard way, unless you use a pre-emerge.

Thanks for the tip on the veggie oil. I’ll go that route next time for sure.

I do have an area where I’ve dumped out about 15 gallons (over time) of the watery nasty dirty oil that I don’t filter for the car. Nothing has grown there for some time now.
I’ve also used the WVO around the base of our garden fence line. Nothing there but a 6” wide line of dirt.
I never thought to use it as the carrier for Remedy on the trees.

Right on Bot, about those seeds. We try to rake those pods up asap when they fall around here. The horses love them. The rest of the Mesquite issue is just to eradicate them as best as possible. I’m up for the WVO/Remedy mix on the next assault. (Usually about every 2 to 3 years.)

The Kleberg’s (King Ranch) have an interesting way of removing unwanted Mesquites. They run a long length of ship anchor chain (the huge stuff) between two Caterpillar tractors and drive on. Anything between the tractors is ripped out of the ground. Hell of a sight to see.

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1980 300D - Veggie Burner !

We're in pretty good shape as far as mesquite, huisache and cedar go...not exactly sure what cedar we have but it isn't the mountain juniper that's so invasive in the hill country. Ours are big tall ones...we leave them be.

The mesquite is a once a season job...there's always several saplings poking up this time of year and a few that we missed the season before. We carry a roll of engineer's tape in each of the farm vehicles and try and mark them when we're cruising the property. That way, in a few weeks when everything is growing full bore, I'll load up the backpack sprayer with Remedy mix up a giant Jack & Coke and get Dad to drive me around the place in his buggy looking for the pink and orange tape. It's great way to spend the afternoon.

The thing I hate is the damned yaupon. The stuff clumps up around the bases of all my trees where you can't get to with the shredder. The only thing we've come up with for control is to go after them using the gas brushcutter. The Domain alone has over 200 trees...it's a job.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

If it's any solace at all, yaupon is great wild bird food and cover. I remember deer hunting in yaupon at an uncle's ranch outside of College Station. All you could see of the dang deer was legs! I finally got one. Shot the little buck at probably 20 yds with my .270. I swear, you couldn't see a deer farther much away, even though the woods was loaded with them. I could've used a shotgun but (at that time -- early-'60's) Texans took serious offense at scatterguns for deer.

See the little m-e-r-k-i-n-s at the bottom of each tree? No deer hiding in this stuff.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Jen- Are you the one spraying? Since your with child maybe someone else can do the spraying.

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"It's normal for these things to empty your wallet and break your heart in the process."
2012 SLK 350
1987 420 SEL

Hey is that Molly under that tree?

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"It's normal for these things to empty your wallet and break your heart in the process."
2012 SLK 350
1987 420 SEL