have a 90 celica 5 spd 5sfe motor and i am trying to figure out whats wrong with it.. it starts and runs but with a very rough idle when warmed up and when i go drive it after awhile it started to miss when a load got put on the engine i.e. going up a hill or accelerating untill now ...now it still starts and has a rough idle warmed up but when you take off it bounces like somone trying to drive a manual for the first time and i no for a fact that its not the clutch doing it so my question is what the heck do any of you think is wrong with it??? could it be the timing belt?? i just replaced the plugs and wires and distributor innards and that did not fix the problem also i put injector cleaner in it and still didnt fix the problem but it helped out a lil so i am at a loss for what it could be... and also my check engine light is not on.

You need to install a jack under the center of the car, lift it as high in the air as you can, then park a Mercedes under it.

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1987 560SL
85,000 miles

Check all your vacuum hoses for leaks/cracks for openers.

^x2

That is where to start. Those rubbers crack over time, allowing vacuum leaks which cause runnability issues, especially at idle. If they are bad enough it won't run. I have successfully used Scotch 33+ black electrical tape to seal up intake boots until I could replace them.

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Jim

Also sounds like a TPS, if that car has it.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

oh yeah i will get right on gettin that benz underneath lol but yeah it has a tps on it... will check hoses when i get home from work but that would not make sense for the car bouncing just the idle or misfiring ....it gets way worse when it is hot outside too....and once again my check engine light is not on

CEL not being on isn't odd, as the computer would have stored the code. Take it to Autozone and have them pull the codes for you for free.

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1987 560SL
85,000 miles

lol if the engine light is not on there will be no codes right? and i can do it myself when i get home

old toyotas only put out ONE code for misfire, which can be anywhere in any cylinder in any part, So start with replacing the ignition cables, then the distro cap.

Vacuum checks are also good, It might also be the brake servo gone bad, I have experienced that.. It was a tail chase.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

ok once again the car bounces like a newb learning to drive a manual ....how does replacing any of that fix the bouncing......when i was looking up symptoms of a bad timing belt it is saying the bouncing i am describing ....i understand that replacing the dist cap and all that could posibly fix my misfire but how is that gonna stop the bouncing?

I have had a very similar problem in two toyotas, both 4 cyl, one a camry with the same engine you have, one a corolla with a 1.6 4AFE engine, the T belt off alignment will cause a constant misfire type situation and high running temperature, the engine will run though because both cam and crank sensors are inside the distributor.

If the belt is correct and the engine cannot rev smoothly off idle, the ignition system is not working like it should, and I repaired the faults by replacing the cap on car and the cables on the other (this one also required the capacitor to be replaced as it had melted and waxed up the tone wheel for the crank sensor).

But - YMMV - - Its a toyota, you may solve it easily or lose half your hair.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

hahahahaha i only have half of my hair left from this crap ...but i have replaced the innards of the distributor and wires and plugs was gonna clean my egr valve and replace the pcv valve (i no the pcv has nothing to do with the misfires or the bouncing) but the day i got the gasket for the egr valve it started the bouncing crap but it was misfiring before that which was why i replaced everything already and was going to clean the egr valve

I was trout fishing up the middle of Pennsylvania far from an auto store. Got a fair sized hole pop out in the upper rad hose in my MG Midget. I had some RTV 732 and I cleaned the area with alcohol real good and put a quarter sized dab over the hole. That hose lasted 2 more years...LOL

my 92 camry had a rough idle i tried everything on that thing.and when it started leaking oil from the rear main i got to thinking i might have a bad pcv valve.sure enough it was plugged solid.replaced it got my smooth idle back and my rear main stopped leaking.

I'd have to see the bouncing to understand exactly what you are talking about.

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Jim