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  #16  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:42 AM
KarTek's Avatar
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I'm restoring an old oak coat rack that I swear has been painted 20 times. It literally has a 1/8" coating on it. I actually found screws that I didn't know were there when I first started stripping it.

Anyway, I'm using Stryp-eze and it seems to be doing a good job. Can't really get away from ding it multiple times but the secret seems to be doing smaller areas and keeping it wet.

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  #17  
Old 09-10-2012, 06:02 AM
jplinville's Avatar
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Location: Dayton, Ohio region
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
I'm restoring an old oak coat rack that I swear has been painted 20 times. It literally has a 1/8" coating on it. I actually found screws that I didn't know were there when I first started stripping it.

Anyway, I'm using Stryp-eze and it seems to be doing a good job. Can't really get away from ding it multiple times but the secret seems to be doing smaller areas and keeping it wet.
How many layers would you say are coming off with each application?
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:15 PM
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Rock Miracle

Rock Miracle uses the older Dow Chemical formula and has Paraffin wax in it that rises to the surface to block the evaporation of the Methele Chloride.It will work on ANYTHING, Radiator Paint, Zinc Paint, you name it. I have stripped up to 10 layers of 1920's Lead Based enamel paint with this stuff.

But it is seriously nasty to work with and requires a vented area and I recommend gloves up to the elbows, goggles and a 5 gal bucket of water nearby if you get it on bare skin. I wear a positive pressure respitrator when I use the stuff.
`
The company (Pyrock chemical) was owned by my neighbor Karl Ellinghaus, and he gave me several 5 gallon cans of the stuff that was "too potent for sale to the public" and I have been using it for the last 20 years. You can use it and then scrape off the stuff back into a 1 gal paint can with a screen filter and reuse the dregs at least twice. Then wash the surface with water and it is neutraized.

If you are stripping a soft or porus wood, expect to have to sand the result because the grain will be raised by the wash.

If you use it, READ THE WARNING on the can. Seriously, READ IT!

If you are concerned about Lead base paint, use Peel A Way, it uses Caustic Lye paste to melt the paint but the Lye turns the Lead into Lead Phosphate (less than 5 ppm of Lead content) and thus it is not a Haz Mat situation. It is safe enough that we use it during renovations for NYC Public Schools. EPA and DEP are OK with it as the Lead Paint is not turned into a dust or "flyable" danger but a thick paste that contains the hazard.It neutralizes with cheap White Vinegar or any Acetic Acid wash.
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:27 PM
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Considering lead I withdraw my sanding recommendation.
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  #20  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cullennewsom View Post
The most potent one that I know of that can be purchased retail is "Aircraft Paint Remover" But, I haven't used it in years. It's likely been reformulated.

Turco Acid Based Stripper. Used to be the thing, get splash drops on your arm, you got infected zits. It was the cats ass.
I'm talking 1987 at DTW.

Best I ever saw.....took Poly U off a 727 in one or two coats.
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  #21  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:36 PM
Inna-propriate-da-vida
 
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This is the best painted stripper I've found...

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  #22  
Old 09-11-2012, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
Rock Miracle uses the older Dow Chemical formula and has Paraffin wax in it that rises to the surface to block the evaporation of the Methele Chloride.It will work on ANYTHING, Radiator Paint, Zinc Paint, you name it. I have stripped up to 10 layers of 1920's Lead Based enamel paint with this stuff.

But it is seriously nasty to work with and requires a vented area and I recommend gloves up to the elbows, goggles and a 5 gal bucket of water nearby if you get it on bare skin. I wear a positive pressure respitrator when I use the stuff.
`
The company (Pyrock chemical) was owned by my neighbor Karl Ellinghaus, and he gave me several 5 gallon cans of the stuff that was "too potent for sale to the public" and I have been using it for the last 20 years. You can use it and then scrape off the stuff back into a 1 gal paint can with a screen filter and reuse the dregs at least twice. Then wash the surface with water and it is neutraized.

If you are stripping a soft or porus wood, expect to have to sand the result because the grain will be raised by the wash.

If you use it, READ THE WARNING on the can. Seriously, READ IT!

If you are concerned about Lead base paint, use Peel A Way, it uses Caustic Lye paste to melt the paint but the Lye turns the Lead into Lead Phosphate (less than 5 ppm of Lead content) and thus it is not a Haz Mat situation. It is safe enough that we use it during renovations for NYC Public Schools. EPA and DEP are OK with it as the Lead Paint is not turned into a dust or "flyable" danger but a thick paste that contains the hazard.It neutralizes with cheap White Vinegar or any Acetic Acid wash.
Thats the stuff I was talking about !
If your neighbor has the old Dow formulation booklet get a copy of it & post it for us all. There was a great de-carbonizing mix as well for cleaning pistons & heads.
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  #23  
Old 09-11-2012, 12:08 PM
link's Avatar
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Long ago I refinished pianos and went through gallons of paint stripper every week. I suggest you go to any dedicated paint store (not home depot) and ask them for a recommendation. The work that I did typically required 2 applications. The only way to make the stripper work well is if the surfaces are horizontal and it really helps to use a lot of stripper.

Use lots of ventilation, eye protection, and have several sets of heavy rubber like gloves. The stripper eats through the gloves (and most other things as well) pretty effectively and your hands will get very hot even inside of gloves, when removing the stuff. A putty knife or spatula will remove most material once it’s been softened. An extra fine grade of steel wool with stripper will get the tough spots.

Once the coatings are removed, and after a day or 2 to let it dry, use hot water and TSP to remove any remaining residue.

If you think of it, take some fotos with your new camera and show us some before and after images.
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2012, 12:51 PM
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Zipstrip

Quote:
Originally Posted by jplinville View Post
That's my goal...
Jon,

It's been many years since I used this, but if was effective on multi-layered windows and trim in an old NYC co-op.
Strong fumes iirc. Vent well.

Last?n?Last - Wood Finishes for the Professional - Zip-Strip Premium
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
They were based on methylene chloride~ it will get the devil out of hell!

That is surely the most nasty, uber, incredible, bees knees, dogs nads, Panzzer tank - stripper for sure. It surely is true that it can be used to evict Mr Satan from 666 Hell Abode..
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  #26  
Old 09-11-2012, 07:53 PM
Redefining normal daily
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
That is surely the most nasty, uber, incredible, bees knees, dogs nads, Panzzer tank - stripper for sure. It surely is true that it can be used to evict Mr Satan from 666 Hell Abode..
And it is the basis for EVERY stripper that actually works (this coming from one who put himself through high school & college refurbishing antiques).

My tree-hugging liberal self says OMG save the planet!!!!

My get the job done self says NOTHING works as well. Period. Full stop.
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2012, 08:36 PM
KarTek's Avatar
<- Ryuko of Kill La Kill
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bahama/Eno Twp, NC
Posts: 3,258
Jon, the Stryp Eze has taken about 4 applications to get all the finish and paint off this piece.
__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250
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  #28  
Old 09-11-2012, 11:41 PM
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Location: Dayton, Ohio region
Posts: 305
Thanks for the info, guys. I'll try out the two latest products recommended here, as well as a the paint store (same two products), as well as the heat gun on the door, and see what works the best.

I'll try to post some pictures of the progress...if I can ever get the camera back from my wife and daughter.

__________________
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Meet on the level, leave on the square. Great words to live by

Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we should soon want bread. - Thomas Jefferson: Autobiography, 1821.
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