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  #1  
Old 12-15-2012, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I replaced the plugs on a '99 B3500 at ~90K miles but I don't recall the job spanning days. Those cylindrical shields are a pain but there was no corrosion on this NorCal van. I pulled the shields deforming some then fit new ones in place of the unstraightenable ones after the new plugs were in place. This was a 360 which IIRC is externally identical to the 318.
The corrosion is the killer. The shields will not come out in one piece. There is a rusted portion that stays in the head and I'm going to have to find some type of hole saw to clean the residue out from around the plug.

I'll never put the shields back...........
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2012, 04:56 PM
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I have a couple of new spare shields if anyone wants them

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87 300D
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  #3  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:59 PM
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Bought a 7/8 hole saw (the OD of the socket) and went at #4 for about two hours. Clearly, the remains of the shield are rusted to the walls of the manifold. Removed a bit of material but still not enough to get the socket onto the remainder of the plug.

Went at it with a small chisel and got another section of the shield out from one side of the plug.

The remainder just won't dislodge.

I'm going to get a 1" hole saw, which I believe is the approximate OD of the shield.

This tuneup remains the ongoing nightmare............and there are three more to do.
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  #4  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:21 PM
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Incredible patience Brian!! I would have put that sucker on a lift and pulled the damn engine by now.

I can only hope that you are working on a scheme for custom made heat shields to supersede the original design.
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  #5  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cmbdiesel View Post
Incredible patience Brian!! I would have put that sucker on a lift and pulled the damn engine by now.

I can only hope that you are working on a scheme for custom made heat shields to supersede the original design.
I don't have much of a choice other than to remove the head. That's really no pleasure.

My replacement design is identical to the design on the 1989 van...........NO HEAT SHIELDS. If the 318 worked fine in 1989 without heat shield WTF are there heat shields on the 2002?
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  #6  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:07 AM
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To give the mechanics something to do and the dealership something to charge you for.
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
To give the mechanics something to do and the dealership something to charge you for.
I'm really curious as to what the dealership would do with this situation. They must have encountered it before............
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I'm really curious as to what the dealership would do with this situation. They must have encountered it before............

It's called 'give me your credit card'.
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudesky View Post
It's called 'give me your credit card'.
Roy mentioned that Chrysler has a $2K kit for this situation. It's highly unlikely that the dealership would purchase it.

I wouldn't risk this with a dealer. Apparently, if you fail, you must remove the entire engine from this vehicle. Getting the head off while the engine is installed isn't an option.
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  #10  
Old 12-19-2012, 11:37 AM
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I assume you've been dousing plugs with penetrating oil? Acetone/ ATF is a nice substitute. I'd spray, apply some torque, let it sit for awhile and repeat. Rocking motion + repeated application of penetrating agent should eventually bust this thing loose.
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  #11  
Old 12-19-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMela View Post
I assume you've been dousing plugs with penetrating oil? Acetone/ ATF is a nice substitute. I'd spray, apply some torque, let it sit for awhile and repeat. Rocking motion + repeated application of penetrating agent should eventually bust this thing loose.
The plugs are not the problem.

It's the shields that have, effectively, rusted themselves to the bore provided in the exhaust manifold. The shield comes out, minus most of the material that is in the bore (around the plug). Therefore, you cannot get a spark plug socket down there.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2012, 12:08 PM
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Is it possible to get a thin wall socket down on the plug? Grind off some of the outer portion of the socket and see if it fits?
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Is it possible to get a thin wall socket down on the plug? Grind off some of the outer portion of the socket and see if it fits?
I looked at some thin wall sockets for motorcycles. The current wall thickness on the standard socket it about .075" at the points. I'd be concerned that a thinner socket won't take the removal torque. On one of the plugs I must have had over 60 lb-ft. to crack it loose.

If the plan for the 1" hole saw doesn't work out, that option might be the next one up.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2012, 01:27 PM
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One of my plug sockets is a tight fit for one of my engines. I took it down a bit on the outside to make it less sticky. Taking off the chrome seems pretty safe as i would assume it does not contribute structurally.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2012, 01:29 PM
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Is the heat shield uniformly obstructing the socket or just in a few places? If not uniformly, you could grind down the socket in the obstructed areas and leave the original thickness in the unobstructed areas.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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