. By dedicated I assume on it's own electrical circuit and that is also the current electrical code. Reduces circuit loss to other things if they draw substantially. Does not guarantee good voltage though if the house supply is low. Measure both legs for voltage. You do not want a semi floating neutral allowing more voltage on one leg than the other. Both sides should be equal. Too many people just measure across the two legs and 220-240 is all they mentally see forgetting that you are not referencing each leg to neutral.

A mechanical rotating defrost timer can become locked in the constant on scenario with any frost free refrigerator. Does not have to be a particularily age related failure.

Sometime when it is practical turn off all your other circuit breakers. Keep an eye on the electrical meter every fifteen minutes if it is moving. Look at four times. If it has continued to move those four times actually even just three times is probably enough. The defrost timer is jammed. Unless you have some type of current draw instrument that you plug the fridge into the first test will do.

If initially the meter is not moving the first time then the test is complete. It cannot be the defrosting heater locked on. Plus the refrigerator compressor is off at that time.

You are probably not going to like what one of our daughters said about two to four years ago. She managed a large furniture and appliance store then.

Basically that the old label north American fridges are junk now. Dad if mom ever wants another fridge buy one from the orient unless things change.

We use a non frost free fridge with no freezer compartment currently. Using a separate freezer for anything that has to stay frozen.