Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread

[Stretch]

After much thought and precision engineering I came up with this solution

(Pat Pending)



Specially designed to keep the mirror flat during installation



Make sure the adjustment is positioned so that the mirror doesn't catch on the edge of the casing

[Stretch]

...we made it back in one piece but nearly didn't.

Just south of Antwerp an Opel Corsa starting doing pirouettes - probably over compensated when trying to change lane. All of the sudden the thing was sideways - bounced off the metal rail on the outer side of the road - pivoted - turned and boing - went backwards across three lanes of traffic magically missing everyone including the W201 and crashed its arse into the concrete central reservation. I saw the bugger doing this in slow motion - the twat actually let go of the steering wheel with a "nothing to do with me" look on his face.

The difference was centimeters / milliseconds - we were very lucky this cock didn't hit us.

[DieselPaul]

Good call on the metal thermostat housing, mine blew apart at autocross. Which was no fun for anyone involved.

What type of coolant are you running? I'm surprised to not see you running MB coolant!

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

...
What type of coolant are you running? I'm surprised to not see you running MB coolant!

It is MB spec 325.3 anti-freeze that I mixed with de-mineralised water. (The old water bottles are the ones in the pictures) I think the spec for my M102 is actually 325.0 but hey the .3 was easier to find here in Holland so I thought I'd go for the "truck" spec...

...as you might be able to tell trying to find the difference between .0 and .3 got me all confused - so I thought bugger it - probably close enough.

[Stretch]

Bit of an epic fail in the end...

Rear seat removal.

Base pulls up quite easily on spring clips

Seat back is pretty straight forward too - much like the W123

Head rests twist forward so you can pull them up and out of the seat back



Bolts (8mm hex head) in the lower two corners



And one in the middle



Slide seat back up and off the hooks

[Stretch]

With seat back removed

Covers for rear loudspeakers unclip at the front and then slide into the cabin and up



Open first aid box lid



Pull out first aid box tray



Might be original (I dunno)



Two little bayonet fittings hold the shelf in place

[Stretch]

They come in these little gucci plastic housings - they seem to be glued in position



These just ping out of the metal chassis shelf part (but the speakers don't come out of the holder)



They are handed - one for each side



2018200402 seems to be NLA

Anyway the reason for ripping them out was to try and see why they're not working.

Unfortunately I didn't get very far.

The wires from the back of the car to the front are OK.

The front loud speakers work.

The outputs for the rear loudspeakers on the radio will power the front speakers.

I thought that the speakers were buggered because I couldn't get a good resistance reading when they were fitted in the car. They are 6 ohm speakers so I thought a reading of 6 ohms should be achievable...

...turns out I was suffering from dodgy probes on my multimeter syndrome...

...the speakers do work when I plugged them into a "home hifi" amplifier...

...so I put it all back together again.

Tip for the back seat fitting =>

Get your seatbelts aligned nicely first!



I have to speak with someone about these back speakers.

I might have to check the specifications of the front ones...

...I dunno - I'm a bit lost.

[Fact150]

I replaced mine and they are glued in . I ripped mine out and replaced with an Infinity speaker and screwed them into the "pod" . I don't have pictures but it's not hard at all .

[Stretch]

I think I'm getting myself all done up in knots with electrickery BS

Here's a message repeated and repeated and repeated

Amplifier loudspeaker ohm impedance output input voltage bridging impedance no matching speakers no matching ohms speaker amp 4 - 8 - 16 resistance ohms connection of power amplifier to speakers There are no 4 ohm or 8 ohm amplifiers convert - sengpi

I'm gonna have another fiddle with it and then probably (have to) start a new thread

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by Stretch

I think I'm getting myself all done up in knots with electrickery BS

Here's a message repeated and repeated and repeated

Amplifier loudspeaker ohm impedance output input voltage bridging impedance no matching speakers no matching ohms speaker amp 4 - 8 - 16 resistance ohms connection of power amplifier to speakers There are no 4 ohm or 8 ohm amplifiers convert - sengpi

I'm gonna have another fiddle with it and then probably (have to) start a new thread

This HiFi bollocks got my goat so I went and unplugged everything again and had a good fiddle (!)

It seems as though the car radio I have "had to learn" about the rear speakers - I don't know why but unplugging the front ones and then whacking up the volume got the rear ones to work.

I then plugged in the front speakers and I have (1980s) quadrophonic sound - yes!

I guess there was something in the car radio manual about this - so it could have been a case of RTFM. Problem is I haven't got TFM and you can't RTFM when the sodding manufacturer doesn't provide an online version of TFM...

...anyway job done (I think) - something is fixed.

[Stretch]

If anyone knows about CIS air flow plates and stops - I'd like to hear from you!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/371761-cis-air-sensor-plate-stop.html#post3518380

Thanks

[Stretch]

...dag nam it - I wanted to wax the car today but this happened



Oh well

[Stretch]

There's a really irritating leak from the top of the washer bottle. I'd removed the bloody thing and cleaned out the level sensor (because I thought that was grotty when the warning light came on) but it turns out the warning light comes on for the right reason - the fluid is low!



Turns out it is leaking from a "dimple" in the moulding on the underside.

Tedious.



2018690620 seems to be NLA at the dealer and second hand ones seem to be about 20 euros so bugger that! I might as well try and fix the little crack.

I don't know if the following fix will work but this is what I've tried.

Super glue.



And because I'm back in Holland at the moment - bicycle inner tube patch (yes normally I'd use a rubber contact adhesive but I don't think it will glue onto the ABS plastic)





I'll let you know if it turns out to be leak proof...

[Stretch]

I have a feeling the idle issue I've been having is caused by two things.

First thing - the air flow potentiometer turns out to be part of the control system for the air idle control valve. If the signal from this potentiometer isn't good then the air idle control valve can't do its job properly.

(Well this is the theory I now have based on bits of reading and much unclearness from the FSM!)

So I removed the fuel distributor assembly from the car (this is not strictly necessary but I wanted to make sure I couldn't see anything else wrong with the sodding thing)



Working on a bench with good lighting is always nice.

I removed the air flow potentiometer and found much like the spare parts I've been playing with (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/371777-cis-air-flow-potentiometer-possible-fix.html) that the contact surface of the potentiometer is damaged.



The two little "levers" make contact with the surface of the potentiometer and eventually wear away the surface.



So I've fitted a new one.

It has to be adjusted so that the "computer" gets the correct voltage for the position at idle. There's notes about this here =>

SG-Motorsports Air Flow Meter Potentiometer Replacement

(Found it from this thread => M102 8v - Potentiometer fault or Vacuum Leak?)


############


Second problem - also idle related - random stalling.

I think this could be due to a poorly adjusted throttle linkage.

The FSM says the linkage should be positioned just so



In the top right hand picture I found there was a gap on the wrong side of part 15 on the car.

So I've changed the position of the upper throttle linkage part by shortening the linkage from the lower throttle plate assembly



(Because this bit is spring loaded)

So that part 15 now has a gap behind it



Hopefully this will stop the indecisiveness at idle which sometimes caused the engine to stall.

Fingers crossed.

[Stretch]

...I decided to do something that's nice.

Finally got me some bonnet insulation.

The general consensus on this forum is to use 3M 08090

Not easy to find that here in Holland. I can get it from England but then the postage time and cost made me look for an alternative.

I remembered teasing Robin-H over on BW about a nasty case of Bison ticks =>

RESTORATION BEGINS: Interior & Exterior - Page 44 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

So on his recommendation I got some for myself.

(I'm hardly ever impressed with Bison stuff so we'll see how it goes)



I just got a little tin (nearly cost ten euros - humpf market leader has had it too good for too long)

Cleaned the underside of the bonnet



(Most of it was cleaned earlier on in the thread - way back when)

Brush on - no chance of ending up with all of those "oh **** look at that over spray" troubles - does take longer though I'm sure



Brush on the other side



Let it dry! Contact adhesive is weird stuff.



It went on all right. Not too bad for an English bloke in a Dutch car park working by himself if I say so myself.

Th crinkly bit in the middle towards the bottom was due to the way it was packed in the box - honest gov! A bit irritating - but may be a bit of heat will make it different...