Hi Guys

Thanks for the thoughts
czwbkx - It might be a strong possibility but the rubber really looks so new like it was done very recently. What you're suggesting is nothing short of a full front end rebuild - something I was dreading but if its got to done, its got to be done. I checked the archives on the question of the little nibs on the LCA bushes and its purpose but there were no conclusive answers - either indicates the hardness of the rubber or the way the bushes are supposed to be installed. Can anyone shed some light on this?

deanyel - It might be sway bar bushing as these look a little old - it will be changed. I doubt its the rotors as they clamp down with the wheel bolts.

Any thoughts on the shock upper rubber bushes? Are these part of a front end rebuild?

Oreo

I would take a look at all the rubber bushings in the front suspension, including the sway bar, control arm, and upper strut mounts. Look for cracks, gaps, etc. The sway bar bushings will definitely clunk when worn, as will the upper strut mounts (I've had both replaced).

Hi anthonyb

Thanks for the tip on the strut mounts. Coming from a former 123 I never even knew they existed. Did some research on that and it does seem very high on the list of possibilities. Its the same complaint - rattle over washboard surface....

The 124 suspension looks easier to do than a 123...right?

Oreo

I actually didn't mean rotors - I meant loose calipers. It happened to me once when I didn't put loctite on the bolts.

I went through the same list you have on my 124 and also couldn't find the fault and just gave up and lived with it, for a while anyway.

Later, my brake light started to flicker periodically so I checked the front pads and found them well beyond the half way mark. Upon replacement, I noticed the outer caliper bracket which extends outward sliding on two greased rods as the pads wear. After squeezing the caliper piston back in, used a C-clamp, and put the new pads in, and put it all back together, those rods that extended, now reset back inward, must have been rattling when they were extended outward from pad wear, because there was no more rattle after pad replacement!

The front sway bar rubber mounts can look fine, but look closely at the very tip of each end, right and left, and see how close they are to touching the wheel axle bases, if less than 1/8 inch, this will cause more of a clunk, metal-to-metel. I inserted within the rubber mounts some rubber cut from an old tire and that sound went away! BB

Guys

Once again thanks for the heads up on the brake calipers deanyel and BB. Looking at it more closely again today for the last time. If nothing else works, it will be a complete front end job.

Oreo

Front sway bar mounts. They are shrunken and the sway bar is rattling on the ends. Take a peek, dollar to a donut the rubber isn't tight on the bar. If not, replace. It's not a bad job, you can do it with the car on the ground. You will need to turn the front wheels to get good access to the outer ends.

Use some silicon lube for the frame bushings, you will probably have to drive at least one on. The old ones will fall off.

Check the frame mounts, too -- they have a tendency to break at the base, allowing them to rattle terribly. This will NOT be obvious, you must pry on them to see it.

Ball joints will also rattle, and I would recommend a new control arm since it's likely the bushings are bad, too, and they are a real PITA to replace. Try the sway bar first.

If the rubber in the strut mounts is cracked, replace them. You do not have to remove the strut, but you will get a good workout! Jack car to give you room, but leave the front wheels (or wheels) on the ground -- the spring can fly out otherwise! You can put it up on jackstands and jack on the control arm, but this is difficult on the W124, the jack slides too much. Remove the struck nut (you will need a 7mm allen to counterhold, and this is NOT in the usual assortments...). Remove the three nuts that hold the mount in place, then collapse the strut and pull the mount off, insert the new mount, and re-install the nuts and strut nut. It may take two people to push the strut down and hold it, it is VERY strong! I got pretty much worn out.

An alignment afterwords is in order.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!