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  #1  
Old 01-01-2005, 06:34 PM
Saint's Avatar
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Oil Pan on 1990 300TE...how do you remove it?

Hi there, my 1990 300TE oil pan is busted, and needs to be replaced. I have the replacement, but would like to hear from you guys exactly what I need to do to get this pan off and on. Does this pan use a gasket, or a specific sealer? My car sits waiting for me...thanks


Last edited by Saint; 01-14-2005 at 03:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2005, 08:01 PM
LarryBible
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I have never replaced an oil pan on a 124 with engine in chassis, but I've read that by raising the engine it can come out. A manual would REALLY be handy for this job.

Good luck,
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2005, 02:58 PM
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Remove bottom engine mount fixings, jack engine on crank pulley (carefully) drain oil and remove pan fixings, tap pan with soft faced mallet until free of cyl. block, lower as far as pickup pipe will allow, reach in and remove pickup pipe fixings now lower both out from under car. New MB gskts required and then refit. Messy but easy! Regards Linds
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Old 01-02-2005, 10:18 PM
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I have had to remove the oil pan from various cars over the years. Some were so easy...while others where a pita.

Lincoln town car....I lifted the engine with a forklift (had access to one), but had to lift so high, I really thought I was going to damage something.

Chevy Van....this one I just removed the two engine mount bolts, and lifted the engine with a hydraulic jack at the crank. Took very little lift, as I was able to rotate the engine around to put the crank as horizontal as possible.

Since my Mercedes is far more valuable than either of those pieces, I wanted to hear from you guys first....but it sounds about the same....except for the reaching in to remove the pickup. The pickup will need to be removed to remove the pan?
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Old 01-03-2005, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LINDS HANSON
Remove bottom engine mount fixings, jack engine on crank pulley (carefully) drain oil and remove pan fixings, tap pan with soft faced mallet until free of cyl. block, lower as far as pickup pipe will allow, reach in and remove pickup pipe fixings now lower both out from under car. New MB gskts required and then refit. Messy but easy! Regards Linds
This info looks right based on CD ROM (section 01, procedure 3100).
It calls out to first remove the air cleaner and fan shroud.
then the following;
Disconnect battery; drain oil; unbolt engine mounts; unplug oil level sensor; unplug oil pressure switch
unbolt automatic trans oil pipes (running forward to radiator)
unbolt oil pipe of level control
raise engine (There is no mention in the manual about the back of the transmission being bolted to a support plate. I'd think this plate wouldn't like the twist you'd be causing. Maybe you don't have to raise the engine too much. Seems like you could also damage the propeller shaft. - Still the manual hasn't steered me wrong yet and I've pulled the whole stinking drivetrain out already.)

Last edited by Jgood12006; 01-03-2005 at 09:54 AM. Reason: typo
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2005, 03:31 AM
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The trans mount is rubber, and the driveshaft is fixed by rubber flex discs and a rubber center support - it will take SOME flexing, but not a whole lot, as you can obviously damage the mounts if they are moved too far. FWIW, the engine mount R&R procedure doesn't call for disconnecting the tranny mount or disconnecting the driveshaft, so you should be able to lift the engine at least enough to get the mounts off without too much concern.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2005, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jgood12006
This info looks right based on CD ROM (section 01, procedure 3100).
I have a two cd manual set...the one that starts with the gull wing MB first. That manual is really terrible.

I have since purchased the 5 cd set, and the Bentley Bible.

Thanks for those instructions....very nice. It comes out as soon as I order and get my gasket.

Which cd set do you have?

Last edited by Saint; 01-14-2005 at 01:19 AM.
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2005, 03:10 AM
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I realize that many of you will never have to yank your oil pan off a 1990 300, but I did. I figure I should tell a little about it.

I have these pages from a Mercedes Book. It gives the part numbers to many of items, the price for that item at that time, and also gives man hours to do the job. The oil pan says 4 hours. That told me that if a pro with all the good equipment is going to take 4 hours, then it will probably take me about 6.

Well...lol...5 hours and counting...and it is out.

Lets see what I remember....5 hours of trial and error can take its toll. You have no choice but to hoist the engine...either with a cherry picker or an overhead hoist. You can NOT lift the engine from underneath at the crankshaft, and be able to remove the pan. This pan has such an awfully obnoxious shape to it...wow.

First, drain the oil. I did not need to as all my oil was left back on a freeway on-ramp. Start removing the oil pan bolts. There are a crap load of bolts...more than normal. Also, there are larger bolts near the tranny, and allen bolts at the front. Those allens are a stupid size. I ended up taking a 1/4 allen to the disk sander...working my way to the right size..it might be 5.5 mm...not sure..have not measured it. There are a couple of 10mm bolts located above the cross member that were really tough to get at. TIP...for those tough to access 10mm bolts...leave those till you hoist up the engine. Remove the oil sensor wire from the driver side of the pan.

The engine mount lower bolts are allen as well. I have an SAE socket allen set, and I think it was the 5/16 that fit. Those came off pretty easy.

Now to lift the engine. I wrapped a chain around the second intake port, and on the other side, near the front of the engine on the passenger side, there are a couple of threaded holes. I found a bolt that fit, and screwed it through the chain. I removed the two spark plug cables so they would not get pinched, and put a piece of wood between the chain and head. Attached my brand new, just assembled cherry picker, and proceeded to lift. All looked good...couple of chain adjustments, and up we go...about 2 inches.

The oil pan fell off before the last bolt was undone. Trying to pull the pan forward, several things became obvious.

1.) the dipstick tube must be removed (duh..lol)
2.) the oil pickup is NOT coming out to help with pan removal.
3.) the upper radiator tranny cooling pipe must be dropped in order to pull the pan forward. You have to manuever around it, but it has to be dropped to do that. Once you get the pan forward to the point where the pan is now stuck at the crossmember, you can lightly reattach this pipe to get it out of your way, and to prevent spillage and contamination.
3.) the long tie rod, or drag link must be dropped from at least one side. That obnoxious flare at the rear of the pan is a major nuisance.

First, I had to drop one side of the drag link to get past that. I popped the passenger side ball joint, and was able to manuever the pan past that. Then...and here is where I spent a lot of time, getting that rear pan flare past the crossmember. I was stuck between the crossmember and a crank journal. If I could have turned the engine a bit clockwise, it would have helped. I could not get a socket onto anything that would turn...and access was really tight. I did not want to mess with using the starter either. This car lost all its oil, and has been sitting for about 2 months. I dont want anything turning until this system is oiled up again.

I lift the engine a bit higher....now the front of the pan is hitting the ground, and the rear of pan is hitting the jounal and the member. Now I play this cat and mouse game of lift the front of the car, and lift the engine, lift the front a little more, then lift the engine a little more. This is to increase the angle of the pan. Enough of this, and finally the bloody thing comes out.

I am now cleaning up the new used pan I paid $50 + $25 ship for. It is actually not badly dirty, I just want it as clean as possible. I dont foresee any install problems, but who knows. Will update when its done.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2005, 11:26 PM
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Another update....FINISHED!!!!

Ok...it took a total of 7 hours. I could probably do it in about 2.5 hours now...LOL

Another great tip for you....have your 13mm socket on a ratchet or small breaker bar. When your removing and installing the pan, you will want to rotate the engine a bit to get the crank journals and/or piston rods out of the way. Use your socket on the flywheel bolts....very easy and convenient. I struggled to remove, and install the pan till I finally figured out this one.

The old pan gasket stayed stuck to the old pan....same with the new old pan I bought. MB uses some kind of gasket sealer on the pan, but not on the block. Pretty smart...nothing on the block to clean up...and no leaks...obviously they do a great job surface grinding the block true. Now cleaning off the old gasket...what a tough job. I sat the pan on my lap in front of the tv for about 45 minutes using very sharp chisels VERY carefully. Then I wire brushed off the remaining gasket material...and finally cleaned up the surface with laquer thinner.

I used permetex RTV (the good stuff) for my gasket sealer...only on the pan side...and cleaned up the block surface with more laquer thinner. The RTV also held the new gasket in place while I wrestled with installing the pan.

Tip...the allen head screws are almost all in the front of the pan. Some have spacers of varying sizes, some not. Make some notes or diagrams on these particular screws. It will save you a bit of time.

This car has sat since Oct 1st with no oil, and not running. It was so sweet to hear that engine come to life again

Well...I guess this concludes our oil pan removal lesson

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