Hey there,

I have tried twice now to resolder my cruise control amplifier...and I am RETARDED!!!!!

Can someone who has had luck doing this help me out? I will pay for your time, and of course shipping back to me.

Thanks

Saint

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1990 300TE....all comments are about this car...in case I forget in the actual post

sometimes its not a cold solder joint...but failed components...

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Exactly my point. I figure that resoldering the board is the logical first step. It is cheap to do, especially if you do it yourself, and this has fixed the problem many times.

I have a rough idea about how to solder...but I think I may be running into a problem with the protectant on the board. Maybe that is what is causing my resolder failure.

There was guy here or at the mbworld who offered to resolder for $10 I think. I cant find his post anywhere.

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1990 300TE....all comments are about this car...in case I forget in the actual post

I do hope you are using rosin core solder and not acid core solder. But you do understand a good point..knowing how to solder...you can overheat components or tracks and ruin them lingering too long or using too high a wattage iron..

I don't know who that was that did it for $10......shipping would be twice that....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Typically, you do not want to add solder when you fix "cold solder" joints. You just want to reheat the existing solder, and make sure it melts properly. Another option, is to use a desoldering braid or pump, to remove solder than replace. Just adding additional solder is going to make a mess, and possibly bridge or short something.

I'll go over the whole thing for free if you want to pay for shipping back and forth both ways. Is there a typical joint that goes bad, or do you just reflow everything in hopes of it coming back to life?

Any known component that goes bad? I'm an EE and I spent 5 yrs as a bench tech, so I know what im doing as far as protecting components etc, but i've never played with one of these before.

Take care,

George

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George Androulakis

Former Mb's:

1990 500sl R129 - 76k Original Miles - New project - Follow the saga http://90r129.blogspot.com/
1990 190E 2.6 148k mi (sold)
1989 420 SEL 246k mi (sold)
1995 C220 175k mi (sold)
1992 190e 2.6 74k original miles (sold)
2000 c230 Kompressor 122k miles (RIP)
1996 C220 149k mi (sold)
2000 C230 Kompressor Sport 127k (sold)

Current Cars:

2009 Mercedes c300 4matic
2006 Mercedes s430
2005 Jaguar XJR
2003 Cadillac Escalade

I was too..but have been away from it for 11 years....I have never seen schematics on the CC unit...my guess is capacitors that have dried with age and totally screwed the RC constant killing the circuit...but without schematics its like navigating NYC blindfolded

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche