Just installed new blower motor (yes it is in the correct way not backwards)
and I stll get tepid air flow out of the vents and defrost.
What direction should I go, car heats up but it takes too long with no air flow
Thanks
David

Is it an airflow issue or a fan issue? Does the fan get louder when you hit "high"? If not, it could be the blower regulator or the push button unit.

It stays the same. What can I do to determine which one to replace

on 124 mercedes got fuse on left fender look for one
or the rezistor undernet fan

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2002 s500 white
2002 c 320 black

It's probably the regulator under the fan. I don't remember off hand how to test it before condemning it (I think it's pretty pricey), but I know it's been discussed in the forum.

Hi David,

I had a similar problem and the blower regulator was the culprit. I
found a used one on eBay for $40 and put it in. I talked to my indy
mechanic about it later and he suggested not using used parts when
it comes to anything electrical.

There's a company in Atlanta that sells rebuilt ones. I can't find the
contact details but if you do a search on regulators you might find it
mentioned here.

Bill

__________________
_______________________________________
1988 MB 560 SEL 138k - Desert Taupe w/ Cream Beige Interior.

Mods:
Euro Headlights w/Smoked Corners
New seats from a `91
ASA 15-Hole Replicas
Sony HU, JL Audio 400/4 Amp, JL Audio 2-way Components on rear deck, JL Audio 3-way Components in door & dash.


2000 BMW Z3 2.3 Roadster 33k
2002 Toyota Rav4L 50k

You do not indicate whether or not the blower is running. Can you hear it? If not then follow the previous suggestions and check the bar fuse near the master cylinder and the controller.

If you CAN hear it blowing, then remove the glove box and use a vacuum source on each of the lines from the switchover manifold. If you have any leaking other than the defrost pod, then replace them all. If the defrost pod is the only one leaking you can replace it without removing the dash.

Good luck,

Blower is running, get air out of side vents, floor and defroster. Just not alot.
Found a post about the 3 plug behind the brake booster. This is supposed to tell if it is control mod. or regulator.
It talks about how to tell if control mod. is bad something about the +12v on the red, good ground on the black and 3 to 10v on the yellow if the yellow is bad it is control mod?
Does this sound correct? If so do I assume that if the red is bad it is the regulator?
Thanks

<< If so do I assume that if the red is bad it is the regulator?
>>

No,

The blower speed is controled by the regulator, which is triggered by the yl wire voltage . It is a switched ground... meaning the blower is always fed 12v on the hot side [+]. The reg. switching is done on the ground [-] side.
So if you have variable voltage at yl and no speed change with yl variable inputs , the reg is bad OR you can have bad bearings/brushes on the motor.
B/C the ground side is switched . all you have to do is ground the Blu wire at the motor and you should see FULL fan .. if not , motor is bad..[ grounding completes the switched ground circuit and eliminates the reg from the circuit]

Since the motor IS running, you should pull the glovebox and check the pods as I described.

Good luck and Merry Christmas,