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  #1  
Old 11-21-2006, 07:18 PM
boomerfix
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Forget everything, too much gas

i managed to get the 89 300e running?, the problem appears to be too much fuel getting into the cylinders eventually killing car. I got it to run up and down the driveway ( 1/4 mile) with atleast half throttle, but the overwhelming amount of gas being fed in just ends up being too much.

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  #2  
Old 11-21-2006, 07:36 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Has this thing ever been up to temp (80+ C) and idleing?
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2006, 08:15 PM
boomerfix
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not idling have to keep a little reved to stay alive, as for temp i drove it probably long enough to be warmed up but im not sure, this is the first time it was remotely possible to drive.
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2006, 08:33 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
If you can... run it till the temp is up over 65-80ish C on the gage.

Thats when it should hold idle if the lambda system is working.

If you can get it to idle... get a 20$ multimeter (with a duty cycle setting is a plus) and you can use the links in my signature to read how the lambda system is functioning.

It will be a lot easier to troubleshoot if you can get it to idle.

For instance... if it gets better when it gets warmer you have a cold start problem...
__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2006, 08:56 PM
boomerfix
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it could have been warm when i could no longer get it started or keep it running
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  #6  
Old 11-21-2006, 09:09 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerfix View Post
it could have been warm when i could no longer get it started or keep it running
Try unpluging the EHA (little black box on the back of the fuel distributor) and see if it will keep running then. That would indicate a problem with the lambda system (the EHA, the O2 sensor...)

Look at any vacuum connections (particularly around the ICV and between the air cleaner and the valve cover) for cracks and slipped fittings. The ICV to the block and the ICV to the intake are hard to fit together... and if the old lines were used they could easily have cracked.
__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #7  
Old 11-21-2006, 10:05 PM
boomerfix
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would that explain the great amount of gas flow to cylinders, im 99% sure it is just too much gas flow
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2006, 10:25 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerfix View Post
would that explain the great amount of gas flow to cylinders, im 99% sure it is just too much gas flow
The EHA can regulate the gasoline flow within the parameters set by the mix screw... It could be lots of things... Hopefully not the fuel distributor which I think is $600+ for a rebuilt... The best bet is to do different things that are 'free' and relativly cheaper to narrow down the problem so you don't end up replacing parts that are fine and become disheartened with the car by the time you get to the stuff thats broke. Proper fuel pressure gage setup for bosh cisE ain't cheap ($100-300 for the gages and attachments to read it properly) so best check the stuff that can lead you to narrow it down and slowly hone in on it. You might change the fuel filter, which is a maintainance item anyway, just don't forget to get the copper washers for it as it will probably leak without new ones and they are not standard hardware store size. I could be lots of things... thats why the PO gave up on it right.
__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2006, 10:32 PM
boomerfix
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there were a couple of things that were fixed or replaced to get this car at this state, i dont know how owner could have said it ran at any time in the recent history
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  #10  
Old 11-23-2006, 07:38 PM
boomerfix
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does anyone have a different take on this or maybe something else to try, or how to test different things.....or is a264172 on the right track
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  #11  
Old 11-23-2006, 08:09 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
What's your history with the car, have YOU owned it when it ran OK?
Gilly
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  #12  
Old 11-23-2006, 09:49 PM
boomerfix
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i love this car!!! i bought it from a person off ebay real close to here and they told me it ran but had rough idle
so they changed the idle air control valve, it ran for 10 minsz then died.
unable to start so they sold.
both idle air control valves work , he sent along old
buy the way i was waiting on your take on this GILLY
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  #13  
Old 11-24-2006, 04:32 AM
Gilly's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
On the tall metal adjustment tower on the injection unit, is there a cap sealing off the top of it or just a hole with the adjustment screw visible in the bottom of the hole? If it's not blocked off I'd try leaning the mixture. Can you check the plugs, I assume they are wet with fuel but double-check if you haven't yet.
Gilly
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  #14  
Old 11-24-2006, 05:44 PM
boomerfix
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the plug is gone (leds me to think someone else had the same idea) although i did try to adjust little by little, i went from flooded plugs to dry as a bone plugs. i think i got it adjusted to where the mix is right or close. I would adjust a little then try to start, pulling plugs each time. i got black soot on plugs so i back it off a little from there. funny thing is if i go out first thing and try to start it it will fire up,idle for a very short while then dies, after it dies i have to give it gas while cranking to get it to start at all you have to actually do pumping motion to keep it going but eventually even that isnt enough. i also tried to unplug the eha and start it, bad idea, would not start at all


Thanks to all for your help it is greatly appreciated!!!
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2006, 05:58 PM
Gilly's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
In regards to adjusting the mixture, how much is "a little". To me it's 1/4 turn. Makes me think you are on the right track with mixture, maybe not. Have you checked (NOT replaced!) the distrbutor cap and rotor? What brand and number plugs are being used? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can check fuel pressure with, or at least monitor voltage at the pumps? How about the fuel filter? Have to try to determine why the engine is shutting down, was thinking it's being flooded and fouling the plugs, but then it seems like it does restart OK? Need to be sure something basic isn't being missed, the engine needs fuel, spark and compression to run, and spark needs to be delivered on time. Do any of the six plugs look worse than the others, or all uniformly bad?? Keep the plugs in order so you know which hole they came out of.
Gilly

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