yours seems to be related to spark.do check the p/s as in title.lots of post you can search out for testing info.

when that car is started the current from the f.i. computer to the eha briefly will run upto 40milliamps which provides the fuel for starting.the coldstart valve will only operate in freezing weather.

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David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

Huh !! as far as I can remember, on my 87, 260E, my start valve worked when I tried to start the car. Are there two different kinds of fuel pump relays then ? I will check this again as soon as I get my fan pulley bracket mounted.

Contrary to what I said earlier, correct operation EHA IS NECESSARY as David said, for the car to start, check the current at the EHA, should be between 40 to 60 ma based on the manual I just checked.

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Saumil S. Patel

Hay,

I'm the guy that started this thread. Thanks for all the advice. I did not have alot of time last night to check things out. I did, on your advice spray starter fluid directly into the intake. Still did not start. This leads me to believe that I have no spark. I can smell fuel.

Tonight I am getting a device to check the ignition coil.

Does anyone know what the symptoms are when a coil goes out? I thought that there was no warning, it just quit. This one seem to gotten weaker over a couple of days.

Thanks - Good Forum!

I am not to sure how you got to the point that the engine will not start from replacing the rotor and the distributor cap? If the unit was running when you changed them,why is it not starting now? You said it was popping back threw the intake,Then you found a bad rotor, replaced that and then it failed to start?Are you sure that you have that part correct?If you are sure of this then do a search on testing the position sensor. JNT