1983 300 D / 1986 300 Sdl - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ron59b · #1 01-06-2008, 10:47 AM

I have two questions:

1983 Mercedes 300D Turbo (285,000 miles)– I think my Tie Rod End needs replacing. I called several parts stores and was told by one that they had the inner and outer Tie Rod together. What is the benefit of purchasing the two together? I would love to see some pictures of how to complete the job for either the outer or the inner and outer together. Is there anything I should know before attempting this repair? Any and all information would be helpful. I also need to replace the rear swap bar linkage bushings (any info).

1986 Mercedes 300 SDL (220,000) – A friend of mine owns this car and wants to sell it. He is not knowledgeable about cars and recently had it in the shop to have a fuel pump leak repairs. He was originally told it was the valve seals, but after further investigation at the shop they discovered that the injection pump needs to be rebuilt. It was mentioned that the number four cylinder was not getting proper fuel and resulting in the poor performance. What is the process for rebuilding the pump to correct the problem? (I had my 1983 300D injector rebuilt and it meant removing the injectors and having them rebuilt by a certified shop.) Is the process the same as used on my 300D? The shop he is using estimates the pump to cost $1700.00 and recommended against a rebuilt pump? Is this accurate or a preference of the repair shop? My friend has offered me the car because he is fed up. I have done 90% of the work on my 300D and wonder is this a good project to take on? The head has been rebuilt on the 300SDL, new timing chain, suspension rebuilt, glow plugs replaced, and many other repairs. The car currently has 220,000 mile and looks and drive like new. I have offered $550.00 for the car? What do you think is a good price?

Ron

Hit Man X · #2 01-06-2008, 01:22 PM

If you have to go into the steering on the car, I'd go ahead and replace both tie rod ends on both rods along with the drag link and inspect the idler arm bushing. You have to align it anyway. The ends are super cheap and easy to do.

On the SDL... what is making them ascertain the No 4 is messed up? Not an injector? Leaking hard line? Delivery valve or seals?

$1700 for the pump alone? Or with labor? Either way, you'd be fine with a used IP if it turns out to be the issue. Many people would be able to supply you one for well under $500 and you would be wise to do the labor yourself. Aside from that, the car sounds quite nice for the money.

TMAllison · #3 01-06-2008, 01:35 PM

Very few diesel mech's are going to attempt to rebuild an IP themselves. Too detailed and techincal when used or rebuilt pumps are avail. Pumps rarely go bad too, most common failure is when they openned up and messed with by those not knowing what they are doing. Something sounds fishy.

ron59b · #4 01-06-2008, 01:55 PM

Hit man X,

300D - Thanks for the info on the steering system. Do you know of any DIY threads or pics to help me through the task?

300 SDL - I am not sure about the reason that #4 is not getting the proper amount of fuel...I would suspect the injector. I am considering a rebuilt unit or a used unit. What info is available with pics to assist me in the process? The issue that brings this to light is a leaky hard line. (The hard line was replaced but still leaks)

And thanks to both Hit man X and TMAllison for your support.

Ron

Hit Man X · #5 01-06-2008, 02:18 PM

The tie rod ends just thread off and thread on. Simple as can be. Drag link has to be unbolted, again this is all very simple. Idler arm is a PITA but if you plan to keep the car, I'd probably go through it too.

I would pick up that SDL and troubleshoot on your own. If it's delivery valve seals (which is common on the 603) you'd be out maybe $100 for parts with socket. Injectors can be rebuilt easily. And if it's the IP, go from there.

My IP was off last year to reseal, the operation is not too difficult by any means. Just VERY time consuming. Once you're in there you'd see other things you want/need to fix... injector clips, I added the factory afterglow, new glow plugs, intake manifold seals, etc.

Do you have a copy of the factory service book? It's available on disc.

ron59b · #6 01-06-2008, 02:42 PM

1. Thanks for the reply, sounds like I need to get the factory CD. All I have is a Haynes repair manual and it doesn't show me enough. I will be looking at the suspension on my 300D and I'm considering doing the entire job....sounds like it makes sense to me.

2. I will be following up with my friend on th SDL and using your advice an doing my own inspection and follow through. The delivery seals have been replaced twice during this recent process.

3. I have one other question on my 300D - the climate control unit on the car works well.....but when I put the heat on, the heat blows full hot no regardless of th setting. I've reviewed many threads and redid the form tubing under the dash, got a used mono valve from the junk yard (that turned out to be in worst shape than mine - that resulted in not heat at times) so I replaced it with my mono valve. I can not think of anything other than rebuilding the mono valve. .....do you have nay other suggestions?
I have also tried several different control units from the junk yard .....but the heat still blows full heat regardless of the heat setting.

Ron

Xsbank · #7 01-06-2008, 04:52 PM

If you have a cylinder that's 'bad,' try swapping the injector to another cylinder to see if the fault follows.

ron59b · #8 01-06-2008, 07:24 PM

Thanks, that is an excellent idea....